Engine drop,finally done

[rvctyjim]

Just in time for some nice weather.I finally finished up my engine drop.

I want to thank everyone here for all the helpfull posts. It made this project go much easier!

I bought this car a few months ago. Its kind of an oddball car,86' Euro M491 Targa, so I figured I would try and make it right... well, as much as I could.

Compression and leakdown were good, no broken headstuds. So a nice reseal would be warranted.
It had some not so bad oil leaks, But I knew it had not seen many miles in the last five years. As expected the leaks became worse the more I drove it. Time for an engine drop!
In my previous life I was a master T and L-wrench. So how different are these P-cars to work on? Well not too bad as long as you own every 13mm-15mm wrench/socket combination known to man, LOL.
Upon removal and inspection I took probably over 100 pics. I will try and upload the highlights.

I had oil leaks at the back of the engine, slight oil leaks from the tensioner lines. Slight trans fluid leak from the bellhousing, and weeping from the axle seals.
I also knew there was a vacuum leak because I could hear a faint popping noise on hard decells and also the engine idle speed did not change when I removed the oil cap.

And the leaks were dripping on the heat exchangers causing some smoking after driving.
I also planned on replacing the clutch eventhough it was good,but I did not want to wait unill it came apart while driving.

I ended up replacing:
all hoses at back of engine
all vacuum hoses
thermostat o-ring
breather gasket
oil pressure switch
cooler o-rings
fuel lines-amazon hose fabbed-up beautiful braided ones
tensioner hoses and lines
flywheel seal
valve cover gasket set
throttle body o-ring
intake gaskets and spacers
center plenum connecting hose
fuel injector o-rings
new clutch and components
new plugs, beru wires, cap and rotor
new oil cap
chain cover gaskets,o-rings(ramps looked good)
new flywheel sensors(rpm and TDC)
new temp sensor(had to make SST)
re-shimmed distributor
dizzy o-ring
I know there is more,but just off the top of my head

For trans:
new Input seal
new Input shaft housing(what throwout bearing rides on),slight gauling seen
new axle seals
new input shaft seal(shifter rod seal)
new inspection plate gasket, but used curtil-t as well(also nuts were a little loose,loctited)
new brass bushings for throttle cable arm
new clutch cable

Other things included,While I was in there:
pedal cluster rebuild w/brass
setting WOT and idle switchs correctly
new heater SCAT ducting
new rear shocks
4 new braks lines
lubing heater control cables
new engine sound pad
S.Wong chip
new front rotors(zim),OEM pads all the way around
new front wheel bearings
front cooler lines
rear cooler line
removed front cooler,oil tank and lines for cleaning
new drive belts

Also I did find one of the lower intake gaskets split and another lower one barely hanging on.
I also replaced all the exhaust hardware with SS bolts/washers and used copper nuts.
I had two exhaust studs break on disassembly and drilled them out. I am not sure what the thought was on this, but I replaced all the studs with new as well as the hex bolts, I just used new studs and copper nuts in their place. Even though I wanted to stay as much true to the original, I figured this way next time it will come apart much much easier.

[rvctyjim]

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[rvctyjim]

I missed on first attempt with throw out bearing.I had to remove trans and do again,You can see in the second pic through the bellhousing the correct placement of the throwout arm.

[rvctyjim]

Thank You To Wayne at Pelican Parts! 99% of all the parts for this project came from our host.They were always correct and seemed to arrive just in time for this project to move along.

Again, A big Thank You to all the Pelicans out there that make this place The authority for air cooled P-cars!

[jlr69s]

Great job and the car looks beautiful!! How long did all of that take you? I have family in Borden, IN just across the river from you...

[BRP83SC]

+1

[Geronimo '74]

Good job!!
Thanks for posting the pics.

[rvctyjim]

The project took me a little over 2 months,working on it off and on.It could have been done sooner,but most of the time it was between 20-30*F,Hence the snowmobile suit in the engine drop pic. I only had a little space heater for comfort.Some really cold days I could only take the cold for a couple hours out there before I tapped out.Also I probably spent 2+weeks doing all the little things.Taking things apart and cleaning,lubing everything,I could get my hands on while I was in there.And all the exhaust bolts,nuts,studs was a huge pain.So I changed them all out,That took a few days and about 6 cut off disks for the dremel.

I have been driving it for the past few days(100 miles or so) and so far I had to tighten an oil line at the oil tank a quarter turn(slight drip),Other than that its dry as a bone,no smoke.I adjusted the clutch cable slightly yesterday.I would assume its normal since the new clutch is now seated.

I now have a change in idle speed when I check the oil,So I am sure I got all the vacuum leaks.I think I will change the oil here soon once I go through the first tank of gas.

The car runs awesome.I don't know how to describe it,It was good before,But I understand what the fuss is about these air cooled cars is about now.So addicting...I cannot stop smiling

[rusnak]

Wow, you've been a busy guy! Nice job, in fact....great job. Your reading and preparedness is showing in the pics. It looks like you got it all right.

A couple of questions: Are those Boge shocks? It looks like your jack platform might be a little bit aft of the balance point. Were there any difficulties with that postion? Why did you choose not to support the tranny? Did you use the nylon tie down strap?

[flatsixjunky]

Great job, thanks for the pics and GO YANKEES.

Take care.

[pete3799]

Great job.
I bet your wallet is easier to sit on now.

[rvctyjim]

Yep,boge shocks.They were original to the car,So I figured I would replace Boge w/new Boge,While I was there..25yr shocks staring me in the face for 2+months..figured,why not change them now.

Well,If you look at these pics of my platform the very end of it you will see a 2x4 by the cutout(had to cut out to mount/dismount for the enginge stand main beam).The trans casting boss(where the stamping numbers are) will rest on it.Also note the two side pieces(2 stacked 3/4" plywood pieces) the heat exchangers will just kiss them when all the weight is on the platform,to keep it steady side to side.I would say most of the weight is in the center 4x4(which I "V" notched for the case to sit on)and the rear,where the muffler is supported.

I did not use a strap.Maybe I could have,But the platform is really stable combined with the ATV jack.

This is how it went.
Every thing undone except for trans and engine mount bolts..jack up rear,jack up front,support both w/stands..I wanted to get the car up and level.Just high enough that the ATV jack with platform would contact engine/trans and still have a couple of inches of lifting stroke in ATV jack left.Remove engine and trans bolts.Using floor jack on trans crossmember and Using ATV jack,Lower engine trans about an inch all the while keeping the floorjack on the crossmember still(sort of keeping the trans shaft in the tunnel pointed at say the radio(lack of better angle description)),Then I slid the engine/trans back just enough to clear the trans shaft in the tunnel.At this point the fan will be really close to the rear engine panel and the muffler at the heat shield.Next lower the floor jack so the Engine/Trans are both level.

So at this point we have a level car and underneith it a "free" level engine/trans.Now to get it all out from the car.The platform At this point can hold both the engine and the trans securly without any help from the floor jack(the engine weighs way more than the trans does).So jack up front,remove stands,front tires now touching ground.Still not enough room to get it out w/o removing rear bumper.I fabbed up some scraped 4x4 and a piece of 3/4 plywood.put that on the jack saddle,placed the jack right at the seam of the tunnel(note position of floor jack comming in from side,so car angle matches floor jack arc as I lifted).Lifted just high enough to roll out engine/trans.Placed stands at tubes..rolled it all out..

Also The last 2pics is the way I had to get the engine on and off the stand,I I had to slowly add cribbing underneath the platform and use 3 stands and slowly take away cribbing from underneith it,and ratchet down the stands to get it back onto the platform/Atv jack.Did not have an engine hoist or a jack that could reach the heigth of the stand..So I kinda winged it

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[rvctyjim]

Yea,I guess this project was not cheap(OEM parts).But the price on the labor was Good

I have records from the previous owner and he payed big $$,for a whole lot of nothing done to the car(services,tune-up,etc).He took it to the P-dealer,$100+ an hour.So in the grand scheme of things,I guess it cost me more time than money.And I have now all the equipment to do it again if need be.Although my Girlfriend tells me now that I have an ATV/motorcycle jack.She has always wanted a motorcycle,DOH!.