ZDDPlus anyone using this in their Porsche?

[mkc1962]

Due to solid lifters and all the new oil,lack of zddp hoopla, Ive been using this stuff in my old 73 4x4 as well as my wifes 69 camaro for some time now. Both running small block chevy's with solid lifters

Just wondering, seeing as how so many Porsche owners are also concerned about the loss of zddp. Due to our flat tappets/camshaft setup, is anyone using it in their porsche?

http://www.zddplus.com/
can be obtained via, Eastwood, Summit, and of course ebay.

[efhughes3]

With some of the good oils out there, why use an additive in an inferior oil?

[mkc1962]

Ed,

Very valid point. However, Ive seen many peoples test results come back with questionable results on the additives in question. And these were folks that were buying the high$ supposed good oils. Here is a product that was specifically designed for the supposed problem at hand. Every person that I Know that has used it for muscle car applications,(which is what it was designed for) and taken the time to pay for an oil analysis, has shown it is exactly what it says it is. I'm not wanting to start an oil debate here as I think that topic has been whipped slam to death, and hardly any 2 people will ever agree on anything. Just wondering if anyone here has chosen to use this product.

Both my small blocks have had mobil1 full synth, plus this, since break in.....will they outlast anyone else that is not doing the same?, I dunno and dont realy care. It is just what I choose to do. Truth be known, I have yet to date heard tell of anyone,anywhere that can bring forth a worn out cam or lifter. That came out of ANY solid lifter/cam car,and show undeniable proof that our modern oils caused it.

[HarryD]

Mike,

With all due respect, I would be careful about dissing the word of folks like Steve Weiner and Charles Navarro (who have disassmebled more of these engines than most of us will see in a lifetime). They have reported that their shops have seen the death and it is not pretty. The ZDDP issue came to light when the API SM specification oils became widespread. I think not a coincidence.

Now, like I have said before, we each learn what we can and make our decisions.

[GothingNC]

I just stick with Brad Penn without the hassle of adding additives.

[M.D. Holloway]

additizing oils is tricky - you could end up hurting more than helping depending upon the oil that is already in the crank. I would not use this additive or any other in your Porsche. Stick with Brad Penn or even GTX, Mobil 1 is OK as well.

[efhughes3]

Originally Posted by GothingNC

I just stick with Brad Penn without the hassle of adding additives.

Bingo!

Originally Posted by LubeMaster77

additizing oils is tricky - you could end up hurting more than helping depending upon the oil that is already in the crank. I would not use this additive or any other in your Porsche. Stick with Brad Penn or even GTX, Mobil 1 is OK as well.

Heed Mike's advice. His screen name is not thus by coincidence.

[dshepp806]

BP 20W50....no way I'd put additives in my engine...Lubemaster taught us this long ago ...

Best,

[Thrasher]

Originally Posted by LubeMaster77

additizing oils is tricky - you could end up hurting more than helping depending upon the oil that is already in the crank. I would not use this additive or any other in your Porsche. Stick with Brad Penn or even GTX, Mobil 1 is OK as well.

Ok, I've been unable to follow the blow-by-blow, but are the experts now re-admitting Castrol GTX as acceptable for our air-cooled motors? 20W-50? Regular or "High Mileage"?

Or, do I still need to seek out Brad Penn? Castrol was always much less hassle to pick up.

[bart1]

Don't think I know who LubeMaster is, but Steve Weiner and Chales Navarro say use Brad Penn and Bart does.

[HarryD]

Originally Posted by Thrasher

Ok, I've been unable to follow the blow-by-blow, but are the experts now re-admitting Castrol GTX as acceptable for our air-cooled motors? 20W-50? Regular or "High Mileage"?

Or, do I still need to seek out Brad Penn? Castrol was always much less hassle to pick up.

At the risk of second guessing Lubemaster (who knows much more than me), it is my understanding that Regular Castrol GTX is ok but the additive package breaks down quickly.

Looking at their PDS (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/psd_gtx_usa.pdf), I note that they choose not to publish Zn and P numbers, which I take as a bad sign.

The PDS for high mileage product is no better (http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_gtx_high_mileage_usa.pdf).

[nineball]

i use Valvoline VR-1 20w50. about $5 per quart and readily available locally.

[teenerted1]

if you have an hr to kill read the oil thread
BP BP BP
buy an oil with the stuff already in it is best...no garage mad scientist trying to get it to the right ratio.
just did an oil change last weekend and there wasnt any fillings or even a trace of metal on my two magnetic plugs went almost 800miles over my usually 3k change and had used about a qt in that period...even had a slight green tint still.

was using mobil1 with EOS before i made the swap to BP about a year ago. never going back.

[THECARREAPER]

i own or have owned Ferraris, Lamborghini's, a Pantera, a Turbo Lotus, many muscle cars, and 5 911's. i have always added one can of BG MOA to the oils i use in the cars. never had an issue. i do welcome the idea of having another choice from the BG MOA.

[mholbrook38]

Redline Engine Breakin Additive contains all the ZDDP you need in oil.

Description of REDLINE OIL 81403
ENGINE BREAK IN ADDITIVE 16OZ 81403


Povides conventional motor oils with antiwear additives like zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) necessary to protect against camshaft and valvetrain damage on break-in
Allow pistons rings to seat properly with less-slick oil, while antiwear additives protect other engines components to avoid excessive wear
Can also be used in conventional and synthetic oils during regular operation, providing an extra package of protection otherwise not found in most motor oils
16oz bottle treats up to 12 quarts of motor oil--in many cases, one bottle can serve two engines or oil changes

I believe they are a reputable company and make excellent products.

Please wade in......

[BLEW911]

I'm going to guess that you can have too much ZDDP in your oil. Are you computing how much is in the original oil+how much in the amount of additive you are adding to get the proper amount total mixed? Or are you using the mad scientist approach?

[Mark McClure]

I looked at the redline oils and the price just did not make sence...$400 AUD... but they did say it would last 20K...? being a cheep arse I did not take this route.

Mark....

[efhughes3]

BP 30 weight is a good break-in oil all by itself. Again, no additives needed.

[mkc1962]

slow on the reply guys...been a busy day

Harry,
I was not trying to diss anyone here or anywhere else. I personally have not read either of those two guys writings. Particularily where the topic is that of premature cam wear due to inferior oils. If you have a link I surely would like to read them. I was referring to motorhead forums in general, whether it be here at pelican, or my old benz forum, or any muscle car forum that I also have followed for years. I have never seen any one write an article, with documented proof showing actual damage and receipted proof that only one same inferior oil was used for the life of the supposed damaged part.

As for the oil analysis results..once again I was not refering to anyone particular here, if anything I respect the knwledgebase here...Ive read those all over the web for years, on all sort of oils. And I've seen many documented results, mine being one of them, that show where individuals send in both virgin and used oil and get test results that show many of the supposed premium oils, are no where near as good as they say they are. But then there are those that do get good results as well.

One issue I have will ALL of the supposed recommend superior oils talked about here at pelican is, they are ALL full synthetic. Do I have a problem with synthetic oil? by no means, I myself have admitted above to using Mobil1, but in a new engine. But I do have a problem putting full synth in any 20+ year old engine that is already somewhat leaking oil to some degree. And I have seen the results of doing so several times in my past. Now if I were ever to rebuild my 911 engine, that might be a diff story.

I do know of quite afew porsche owners and dealerships that claim that all they ever use if 10w40 plain old castrol gtx. As for the zink and phos additives in this, it is about the weakest of them all. So obviously this plain old simple oil must still be ok or why would a porsche dealer recommend it? For those that have more interest in additive values in ALL oils take the time to look over this link.

www . bobistheoilguy . com

But as I stated earlier, I never intended this to be an oil argument. What i wanted to know was, who if anyone was using additional zddp additives, IN a porsche engine, had done so for some time, and what type of results good or bad they might have seen. And I do see that some did reply saying that have used it for some time. After some 30 years of turning wrenches myself on just about anything that burns gas and runs, Ive never seen anything that was damaged premature as long as the owner changed the oil religously, and stayed with the same viscosity for the life of the engine.

[nineball]

Originally Posted by mkc1962

One issue I have will ALL of the supposed recommend superior oils talked about here at pelican is, they are ALL full synthetic. Do I have a problem with synthetic oil? by no means, I myself have admitted above to using Mobil1, but in a new engine. But I do have a problem putting full synth in any 20+ year old engine that is already somewhat leaking oil to some degree. And I have seen the results of doing so several times in my past. Now if I were ever to rebuild my 911 engine, that might be a diff story.

that's why i use vr1 - it's not synthetic.