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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 156
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Happy with the looks of tranny oil and level!
I started my oil change, transmission oil change and valve adjustment today.
First task was to get her up on jacks. I've read so much on how to do that that my head was spinning! Wayne sez it's okay to use the oil sump while others say they'd never do that in a million years. I bought another floor jack with the intention of using two to jack up the rear and then the front. Ultimately I felt that my chosen jack points were too far forward (under the car even with the factory jack points) so I used both jacks to do the side to side method. It worked just fine. It's on 4 jack stands with floor jacks under the car at the factory lift point plus I have the rear tires/wheels removed and sitting under the disc brakes. It's my second time draining the oil so that went without incident. I'm using Swepco 306 at 2500 mile intervals due to my car's rich running condition. Based on the condition of the oil, I'd say I could stretch it to 3k or more. The first time I changed it it had 4k plus on it and there was some obvious signs of unburned fuel in the oil. Not so much this time at 2500. I drained the transmission oil for my first time with this car. Filler plug came out fine as well. Car had Swepco but I'm going with Kendall. I keep a drip pan under the trans because it leaks pretty blue stuff. I was pretty nervous when I stuck my finger in the side hole expecting it to be severely low given what I see on the drip pan. I was happy to see that it was maybe an eighth inch below the fill hole. Also there was was a tiny, tiny bit of finely ground metal in the magnet of the lower plug. I was expecting much worse! I'll drag my magnet thru the catch pan tomorrow and see if any big chunks are present. Tomorrow I'll pull the valve covers and do my first valve adjustment. I'm also going to check the head studs for tightness as i didn't have JW do it during the PPI. (Fingers will be crossed) The exhaust side is super accessible and the top shouldn't be too bad. (Carbs no CIS) Thanks everyone for all the help. I'm sure I'll have questions with the valves tomorrow!
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Brian Anacortes, WA 81 SC Last edited by BKC; 09-18-2011 at 05:06 PM.. |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Well, you seem to be just fine.
On the head studs, make sure you use a gradient star torque method at 30% 60% 80%. Pros state that 80% is good enough, do not want to start pulling the studs ![]() Enjoy!
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 156
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I ain't gonna torque them. I'll probably use a drift or something and tap them lightly with a hammer. I should be able to tell if they're intact.
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Brian Anacortes, WA 81 SC |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Nice.
Note on the gear lube change PZ recommend a second flush to insure the old stuff is completely out. I changed my 3 times. I am OCD like that, PZ thought that was way too much ![]() ![]()
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
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Location: Anacortes, WA
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Hmm, second flush? That's probably not going to happen. It'll be open to drain all night long. I have the utmost respect for PZ. Too bad I don't have his patience!
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Brian Anacortes, WA 81 SC |
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Location: Anacortes, WA
Posts: 156
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I pulled a top cover off during half-time and tried to move the motor via the fan. The belt just slid on the pulley. Per Wayne's article here, I'll have to adjust the belt by swapping a shim around. I replaced the belt when I got the car so it makes sense that it needs a little tweaking.
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Brian Anacortes, WA 81 SC |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Oh, No need, place a large wrench against the belt as you turn the pulley.
It is a bit tighter around TDC so you will need to manually place tension on the belt to turn the engine. the other adjustment point (120 degrees) will be easier to turn until TDC again.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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PMed you if you need some hints for the Valve Adjust.
I recently completed my valve adjust after being tutored on a 87. We found that by pushing an pulling on the rocker with the feeler gauge in place, we can come very close to dead on PAG specs. The pushing and pulling technique will show how much LASH is still on the gap and once the LASH is gone you can rest assure the gap is SPEC. to check you will be able to wiggle the feeler gauge back in, CHECK! Jim
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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Registered
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Location: Anacortes, WA
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Nice! I'll try that while adjusting.
So just apply pressure to the side of the belt while turning?
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Brian Anacortes, WA 81 SC |
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Member 911 Anonymous
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Yes, use a large wrench with a smooth edge, well smooth as possible. apply with left hand turn the pulley. It will turn for yeah
![]() Note, even if you tighten the belt she will still slip, that TDC is too tight.
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'85 Carrera Targa Factory Marble Grey/Black * Turbo Tail * 930 Steering Wheel* Sport Seats * 17" Fuchs (r) * 3.4 * 964 Cams * 915 * LSD * Factory SS * Turbo Tie Rods * Bilsteins * Euro Pre-Muff * SW Chip on 4K DME * NGK * Sienes GSK * Targa Body Brace PCA/POC |
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