Thanks to all that made suggestions. To put any concerns to rest, I have ordered 101 projects, swepco for the tranny and a couple mahle filters (among many other good things I found on the website) to get me started. Although I appreciate all the advice, I tend to agree that its worth a couple extra bucks for a product that was designed for the specific application.

I'm sure I will have many more questions to come.

I thank everyone very much. It's truly remarkable that one can pose a question and in a matter of minutes have such excellent expertise available.

For any that are interested in the car. I bought it last summer from a guy who said it was a european car, but has turned out to be from japan, which I believe means the low compression engine although I'm rather fond of the seats. The serial numbers clearly indicate north american cars, but when the serial number came up ROW I assumed he was right. After many years of reading porsche magazines and thought I new all I needed to make a purchase, hmmm how does that saying go, unconsciously incompetent. I was originally looking for a 944 s2 or turbo as I figured that was the best value in my budget, but when I came across the opportunity to purchase a 911 in my budget I leap right in, eyes wide shut. Not a bad car but certainly will need some freshening to get it where it should be and after it was repainted, who ever put it back together seemed to do a pretty quick job of it, headlights not aimed correctly, the odd bolt missing.... 90,000km's on the odometer although I am somewhat curious if that's really the case. Doesn't seem to burn oil compared to what I hear these cars can and runs smoothly, starts well. I think it's biggest issue is lack of use. Sure is an enjoyable car to drive though. I will post I picture when I figure out how to do such a thing.

Take care all, talk to you soon and thanks again.

Hey Feds mine also is a Jap spec 911; similar mileage but I suspect an ex garage queen. Engine totally rebuilt in Japan after pulled stud episode. If you pull your speedometer out you can check if the factory paint still covers the bolts holding the case together. though I suppose this doesn't exclude someone replacing old with newer , or faking factory paint.
I too like the upholstery ; though tartan in Japan???- I guess weirdly exotic .
btw to post a pic just scroll down the reply screen and click upload photo eg from your desktop.

I do not really want to start an oil discussion here but I would be careful with Mobil. As I have stated in several other threads, Mobil makes an acceptable product for later cars but they have played many games with their formulations and currently are not proud enough to publish the current data in their Official Product Data Sheets. I find this very disturbing. Given that our older engines need the Zinc/Phosphorus (ZDDP) additive to protect the camshafts, I would strongly recommend you consider another vendor. But as I also say, your car, your money, your choice.

From another thread, a chart to help you select the proper oil weight. Note that 10W-30 is only for the coldest of climates or for "fuel efficient oil" but Porsche goes on to say, don;t do that without being very careful first.

I spoke with a local "performance expert" today who said get a decent oil and then recommended an oil additive, either "nitro boost" or another product from lucas oil products (can't rememeber the name). His argument was, get a reasonable oil and then add a good additive and you're better off. Not sure which argument is better for my 3.2, get the BEST oil and then you don't need an additive OR get a good oil and then add an additive? Have any of you guys ever used any of these additives? do they have any long term negative effects? any thoughts?

Thanks again

My conversations with Charles Navvaro and Steve Weiner lead me to belive that the best cousre is getting an oil that has the "the good stuff". By whipping up you own concoction you run the risk of creating other lubrication issues.

It is my understanding that the Lucas oil additives do not address the extreme pressure lubrication issues, they modify the oil viscosity.

If you want to go with a 15W-40, Delo 400LE has "the good stuff" right out of the bottle. I cannot find the data, but I would suspect that Shell Rotella would be similar but I could not find the Zn and P nimbers on their web site.

The risk of not providing adequate protection would be expected to be premature failure of cam shafts.

Did you take to many uppers today. It was a wisecrack about the filter. My browser did not bring me to the wrong site. Possibly you should google Narcotics anonymous to take care of your nervous and neurotic demeanor

Feds,

To resolve your oil selection problems, go take a look at what is available at your Friendly Local Auto Parts Stors (FLAPS). Then go to the web and look up the manufactureres PROUDCT DATA SHEETS.

Find the ones with a high (greater than 0.1% or 1100 ppm) zinc and phosphrus content. Those are the ones you want.

sorry about that , guess the humor of your buick comment and a jab at the preferred brand on this board is taken as funny in the circle you hang in. I just didn't see the need for someone to recommend stupidity as a choice for filter information, and when pointed out you decided to jump in and the bash the brand ??? Dr P would not be happy , shame shame ........ park you car under a tree so a pigeon can detail it for you.

Hey Harry:

Thanks for the information with regard to Mobil 1 syn! I did not know that the ZDDPlevels are not acceptable. That is NOT good.

As far as the chart from the owner's manual, that looks just like my owner's manual for the 1983 MY. In fact, that is why I chose to run in the Winter with a different grade. I do seem to get better performance out of the 15W-50 most of the year.

This year, here in Eastern Washington, we have had dry days with very, very cold nights and low temps for the day on average. So, it seemed like the best decision for my daily driver 944, but certainly may not be right for the 911. I have been driving the 911 to keep the battery charged and burn some carbon, but only this year since there is no salt or snow on the roads. I never drive it otherwise in Winter months.

Appreciate the info. Time for me to read up on the additives too.SmileWavy

Once again, "Thanks!"

Hi Ed,

I guess my real message is that we do no know what levels of ZDDP are in Mobil 1 products as they choose not to publish it in their Product Data Sheets. Now I know Mobil includes this information in their marketing materials but, as an engineer, believe the Product Data sheets get a higher level of review for absolute accuracy.

If you read the very long Ultimate Oil Thread, you will find out that the lower levels of ZDDP are not required in the heavier oils. But then again, the heavier oils are not required to keep higher levels of ZDDP. So it is up to us to determeine which ones have acceptable levels.

Hence my reluctance to be confident.

I don't believe I "bashed" the brand, especially since I have 2 p-cars. I did note a fact that if an american car had to have their engine dropped for rebuilds, or top ends as often as a lot of 911 engines, why there would be many angry american car owners. That's not a jab against p-cars, as they are their own breed, are easy to work on, and way more fun to drive. Having said that, if you cross a wix brand filter, it has the same part number of a filter that fits a GM product. Maybe the OP is a newbee, but I'm sure he has gotten all the wise information about where he can get a filter, whether it be from our host, a parts store that deals in european cars, or any other local parts store around. The fact that you posted a rude and extremly long run on sentence to me, telling me I should be on another website such as lonely.org, or whatever shows that you cant see the slightest bit of humor about a filter comment, and are so strung out that you need help beyond what this board can provide.

New that we all have that out of the way, are there any more questions about the 1985 car, what to do to it, and how?

FWIW, I've heard very good things about the Wix brand oil filters from many very reputable people. Even though I've been using the Mahle brand, I would be comfortable using the Wix as well.

Wix brand filters are used in Nascar. They are a very good brand of filter, and are OE by some auto companies. Mahle is the brand of choice, and thats fine. The 911 filter crosses to a GM engine, although I cant remember which one. People use fram, purolater etc, and in my opinion, they arent as good as a wix. I've cut open some brands, and they dont have many pleats. Wix filters seem robust. Just my opinion. I never took a mahle apart

But if filter # xyz-3 application guide state fitment in a P911 and you cross it and it shows that a #xyz-3 fits a buick g, why wouldn"t you tell the guy asking about a filter for his P911 to get a #xyz-3 rather than tell him to go and look up a filter for a buick g.

Obviously you have a hard time reading. All i simply said, in a humorous manner was that if you used a buick filter, the engines may not need so much maintenance. I did NOT say which GM or Buick it fit. YOU keep saying a Grand National, or Regal, and I dont even think thats the same filter, although I could be wrong. I in no way told the OP to go buy a buick filter and put it on his car. I am very confident the OP is wise enough to ask for a filter for his 911. With that being said, your posts about Grand Nationals are the only posts that could lead him to buy an incorrect filter, not me. This thread was started for information that a newbie needs. All future posts should be to help him, not continue about the same stupid subject over a buick filter, or a mahle filter or whatever. In the end, the OP will have found the filter he needs, no matter what brand he chooses. BTW, do you know some toyota filters are the same as chrysler filters. Heaven forbid, right. It happens, dont sweat the small stuff

While searching to see what tires would be best, the tire rack says that the original tire size for a '85 911 is 195/65-15 and 215/60-15. My tires are 205/55-16 and 225/50-16 mounted on what appear to be fuchs. First off, can anyone confirm if the tire racks size is the correct original? if so, this means someone swapped them for 16's at some time. Is there a simple way to tell if the are original fuchs? the tires that are on their seem to work fine, so barring any concern I'm figuring on relacing them with the same size.

I have wondered about the odometer ready, as it seems to be adding up miles quicker than I figure it should. Given the difference from stock, it will be out of calibration. I thought is if I figure out the diameter of the stock wheel, figure out the diameter of my wheels and divide the stock size by the difference I should come up how much it is out of calibration, does this sound correct? Given that stock is 15's and these are 16's I would think it adding miles slower than actual but I'll crunch the numbers and see what I come up with.

Lastly, I'm sure these topics have been discussed before. Can anyone tell me how to search the message board to find out what threads this topic may have been discussed in?

Thanks again.

my1st911:

Ulitmately it's your money, your car, your choice.

I, personally will not look to save a few $$ on a non-OEM filter after hearing Mr Steve Weiner observations below. He has seen more damaged engines/cars than I ever will.

Alot of people upgrade to 16 inch wheels. My 76 had 15, and I did the same thing. I would bet that most people run 205's up front, and 215 or 225 in the rear. IIRC (if i remember correctly) you had an SC model with flares, so rubbing the fenders isnt a problem for you like it is me. I would run what you have, since wider is better.

In answer to your other question about the odometer, if you have a 16, and used to have a 15, then your odometer is actually turning slower. If the axle makes 1 revolution, your 16 inch wheel actually travelled farther, but your odometer doesnt know that. I always have trouble mentally figuring that out in my head. If you had 10 inch wheels, you would go down a side street and the speedometer would register a much higher number. i could be wrong, but thats how I see it

Lastly, in the bar right under your screenname on the right hand side is a search button. You can search in any particular forum, such as engine rebuild, turboing, or tech forum. The search field should state what you are looking for, and try not to use numbers. It doesnt like them. I always have trouble searching, but if you ask nicely, most regulars who have been here a long time will respond with more information than you were hoping for. They are good

Are you sure you are just not having more fun than you think? :D

Check my earlier post #14, it gives you a link to a tire size calculator that allows you to compare tires and it's impact on odometer/speedometer readings.

If you look towards the top of the Web page, there is Blue bar that has the word SEARCH on it. Click that and a box will drop down. In the text box, type in some key words and hit ok. For more advanced searches, hit the link labelled "ADVANCED SEARCH" and then you get a form to fill out. To look for an exact phrase, inclsoe the words in quotes "like this".