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Doug great job. Did you put new shrink wrap or a new plastic sleeve on the wiring harness? It looked so clean and new. If yes can you tell were you got parts or who restored it.
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Gas Tank Breather
More fun here… I probably made it hard on myself by deciding early on to use one of those overflow/expansion tanks from the 69-73(?) cars. I actually saw a somewhat similar set-up on a real R and said, “Hey, I have those parts!” I hope it works out okay… better than the set-up on the 65-68’s, but not quite as robust as what they started doing on the LWB cars.
Here is where the expansion tank will go and what will support it (more trailer bracket metal to the rescue… it even already had lightening holes!): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267928843.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267928867.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267928887.jpg And here is the tank and the lines routed, for the most part: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267929014.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267929037.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267929057.jpg Like those semi-clear yellow lines? They are a gasoline-compatible Tygon tubing product. I thought I would at least try to find something that could hold up to the fluids over time AND was transparent enough to see if they were doing their job and staying clean. Stainless hose clamps and some brass barb fittings took care of the routing and the connections. The carpet kit will cover it all up, for better or for worse… I will run the “dump/breather” line all the way down behind the battery to the front bulkhead and exit it through one of the existing 1” diameter holes via two 90 deg. elbows and a bulkhead fitting. The final line segment outside of the car body will be hidden by the front bumper and I can use it to help route the line to a good safe place for the drips… Notice the strut bar? Another little “side job” that got done. All its yellow/gold cad plating was shot so I decided to make it look nice again. Since I painted it with aluminum colored paint, that will make it lighter, right? Note how nicely it matches the filler cap on the gas tank… just like I planned it. ;) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1267929100.jpg That's it for now, but still more to come. |
:D:D You should be ashamed !!! putting this easy project on here!!! So sad!!!! :D:D
I'm so jealous of you and your project!! |
Powertrain Fitcheck & Install
As many of you may have guessed by now, this is what I have been working up to. The engine has not been run since July 2008. I did quite a bit of little things to it while it was out and I am just plain ready to hear it run and start tuning the carbs!
Since I had made a lot of changes to the car and the powertrain over the last 1 year+, I planned for a fitcheck first. One major item on the fitcheck list was to see if I could sneak out those 2 rear trailing arm bolts that are right next to the tranny. Based on my measurements I thought I could get them out, but there is no substitute for really trying it out. This would help me decide whether or not the rear suspension overhaul would have to happen right now prior to installing/running the engine, or if I could move it down the list a little bit. So happy to be together again: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268231622.jpg Fitcheck went really smooth: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268231691.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268231714.jpg The four big bolts lined up just fine and there were no interferences at all with the new exhaust system, fuel system, etc. And... I was able to remove both of the rear trailing arm bolts!!! The LHS one came right out without any special tricks. The RHS one required me to loosen the tranny mount bolts enough to let the front of the powertrain drop about 1/4" so the head of the bolt could clear a rib on the tranny. So there is a data point for someone... on a 1968 912 chassis, with a 902/02 tranny, supported by a 71T 911 tranny mount, SSI's on a 2.4L 911 motor, no axles installed, you CAN get those trailing arm bolts out. I suppose that is a somewhat unique setup... So, with that info in hand, I removed the powertrain, took care of a few last items on the engine that are easier done outside the car, put the shift rod back in the tunnel of the car, and reinstalled the powertrain: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268232423.jpg All of the hook-ups on the bottom are complete. The wiring topside has been linked up in a temporary fashion to make sure I got it all right and I am in the process of safe-ing all the other electrical connections on the car, setting up a fuel pump relay for that Carrera fuel pump, and getting a few gauges temp installed. The shopping list for tomorrow's trip to town is a fun one... gas, oil, and a battery! Getting close... |
Rat’s Nests
This looks a bit rough around the edges, but testing can be like that. I don’t know what is scarier, how this looks or the fact that I actually know what all these wires do (after a lot of time with the wiring diagrams)… in theory.
Engine bay hook ups: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268682049.jpg A 1971’s ignition switch grafted into the ’68 wiring: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268682095.jpg A fuel pump relay wired in up front: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268682141.jpg At least this looks pretty good: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268682164.jpg So, with that done, the fuel system was flushed out, and then I dead-headed it and set the pressure to 4 psi, then hooked it to the carbs. That meant a good chunk of the electrical was working correctly… gauges came to life, too. The oil is loaded, so not much else to do but…. |
.... figure out how to upload a video file, apparently!
I ran the motor in the car last Sunday and it went very smoothly. Everything seems to have worked just fine. I made a little video of it so everyone could hear that M&K 911R muffler, but I can't seem to upload it...
It kinda sounded like this... vurooom, vuroooom, pop, pop, vurooooom! :p |
Great!!! and when you get it completed just send it to me :D
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Fine work, indeed! WOW!!!!!!!!!
Doyle |
Rear Suspension Completed
Well, I have lost a bit of momentum on this project as of late because of other projects that are in work (it is good to be busy, right?). I figured I could at least update the thread since it has been a few(!) months…
After getting the engine running, I started in on the rear suspension restoration/upgrade/fixing. The car did not have the factory provisions for a rear sway bar when I got it (a Weltmeister was installed with the “adapter kit”), so that issue was pretty high on the list. I decided to step down the torsion bars from 30mm to 28mm, so this was certainly the time to do that, along with the upgrade to rear PolyBronze. AND, I wanted to go for the rear brake disk upgrade option using modified 944 rotors, so I decided to throw that into the mix while I was at it! Lots of facets to this chuck of work, so it took a while for all the parts to come together and be ready to be installed back on the car. The rear sway bar work came first. Everything off the rear end and then some fitchecks of the new hardware were in order: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788672.jpg I needed enough parts in place to help me locate the weld-on sway bar brackets since there are not a lot of good reference points to work with on a SWB chassis (LWB’s have pads on the inner longitudinals that show you where to put them, nice…). Mocked up: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788702.jpg WEVO brackets modified and prepared to get welded onto the car: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788735.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788787.jpg And the bar being held on by its new brackets: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788822.jpg That’s half the issue taken care of… |
Rear Suspension (Part 2)
My rear trailing arms now needed some TLC to accept a rear sway bar in a semi-stock fashion. I went the bushing route, adding small pipe sections through the arms themselves to provide points to bolt the drop links/rod-ends to. Here are some pics of the mods:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278788993.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789021.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789066.jpg And finally another quick fitcheck to see how everything plays together before going much further: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789115.jpg Now that I was happy with the trailing arms, I went ahead and replaced all the rear wheel bearings and seals, installed monoballs at the pivot points, and inspected all the drive hub/stub axle parts (messy stuff): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789145.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789170.jpg Most of the pieces of the puzzle were starting to come together. After painting the trailing arms and some other miscellaneous parts, it was time to start putting it all back on the car. Left and right hand sides assembled: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789209.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789237.jpg That was a fun couple of days. Lots of hooks could finally be made and I did a lot of cleanup on all the stuff exiting the rear of the tunnel. |
Rear Suspension (Part 3)
Well, I guess technically this is rear brakes, but you get the point. I upgraded from the solid rear disc rotors by using modified 944 vented rear brake rotors and widening my existing L-calipers. I did not change the caliper piston sizes, so I don’t technically now have early 911S-style rear brakes, but I am pretty darn close. Modified rotor with the inner caliper half just to check it out first:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789420.jpg Looks good, so I put the calipers back together: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789449.jpg And put everything back on the car: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789487.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1278789505.jpg Finally! That let me terminate the rear brake lines all the way to the calipers (DOT braided lines to new hardlines), load brake fluid, and make the middle pedal work. I finally bought a power bleeder to help me with that step since the system was totally empty. Worked like a charm… So, the undercarriage is now done. I guess if I installed the axles I could make the car move under its own power, but I think I will hold off on that for a little while in case for some reason I have to pull the powertrain back out. The car is off the lift now and sitting on all fours ready for the next step. Other than a few odd jobs, it is time to start putting the body parts back on and fit the fiberglass. That’s it for now… thanks for following along. |
Great Work! :)
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Well...........I can play guitar really well!!!!!!!!!
I'm still jealous!!!! |
Nice... now I see why you had the same size bolts. I've only had one other pair of L-Calipers like that. Those are basically 356 backs with L-Caliper noses. Very early examples I would guess. Do you want some more 55's?
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Bolt-In Roll Bar and Early Dead Pedal
Nothing monumental, but progress nonetheless. Bolt-in roll bar is courtesy of TRE and powdercoated satin black. You use the bar itself to help locate the threaded pads on the car, tack in place, remove the bar, then finish off the welds and seal them up:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280793258.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280793279.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280793301.jpg It fit pretty well on reinstallation... needed a little shimming to close the gap on one side, but that was about it. Since everything was out to do the roll bar job, I went ahead and installed a dead pedal, too: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1280793466.jpg Looks much more the part compared to the newer aftermarket styles IMHO. Next up... doors! |
that looks like a stock piece
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I just love this thread !!! Keep up the good work !!
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Looks great !! Love the 911R style !
Greetings from Norway ! Keep on postinghttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/pray.gif |
Doug,
It's time for an update on this fantastic R.....................a great blend of craftsmanship, good decisions and retro-cool taste.......... Al |
Subscribed
Very nice work Doug. You make it look really easy!! lol!!
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Thanks for the nudge Al...
This project is currently "momentum challenged". Lots of other distractions as of late, but since most are Porsche related it's all good. Looking back in my notes and pictures there is more progress to report than I thought, so I will try to get caught up!
Fuel pump wiring. I had done a lot of temporary wiring hookups to get the motor running, one of which was the fuel pump/relay. I decided to clean that up first using some old A/C system harness items. Ran the wires up from the pump thru the smuggler's box and into the front trunk. Basically just like an SC's setup: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318081161.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318081198.jpg (Now I can carry a spare (modern) fuel pump relay around in my travel kit like the big boys! :D) http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318081229.jpg Looking thru these pictures now after some time has passed, I can see some go-backs. But I need to revisit the fuel lines due to some changes in the plan, but more on that later. Now that the early skid plate was installed, I can see that it will not provide the best protection for the fuel pump. I need to just get one from an SC... |
Fixing up an early decklid grill...
It looks like at the beginning of this year I was inspired to tackle the rear grill. It was in decent shape but had the usual issues of broken studs, wavey bars, etc.:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318082551.jpg Marked for disassembly (yes, I know the rails are stamped with numbers... just didn't see that at first): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318082645.jpg LOTS of parts to keep track of, so be ready if you try this: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318082713.jpg So, I needed a few new mounting studs AND I have a fiberglass decklid (thicker). That means some custom parts :cool:. Starting here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318082955.jpg we end up here: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318082999.jpg So after new threaded rods and some hardware, it is ready to start going back together: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318083099.jpg And the assembled grill: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318083143.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318083169.jpg Over to the decklid for a fit check with new mounting hardware (rubber washers, nylocks, etc.): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318083255.jpg Slow going on aligning the grill and drilling the decklid (not a good place to mess up), but the results were good. More to come... |
Fixing up an early decklid grill...
Ooops...
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More Decklid TLC
While I had the decklid on the bench, I took the time to add the cutouts for the 69-73 style rear license plate lights. The fiberglass decklid had some faint markings as to where they should go, so that helped with the layout:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318169096.jpg Some Dremel action later, we have holes: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318169124.jpg The extra/non-uniform thickness of the fiberglass in the area will set the lights back a little bit more than stock in the decklid, but it should work out fine. Some new longer hardware will hold them in place and I will make up a simple harness to power them up when the time comes. The SWB harness has connectors for them on the LHS of the engine bay... |
Alright… time to make it look a little more like a car again.
… and free up some garage space! Front fenders and bumper fit up was next on the list. Pictures can not really show how long this can take or all the little steps involved, but here they are on the car. Lots of off and on, back and forth to the bench, etc.:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171202.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171231.jpg Basic routine is to mount the doors and get them aligned correctly, and then use their forward edges, the cowl, and the front latch panel to position the fenders. Seems easy when you say it that way, but for those of you that have done this before with fiberglass parts (on a street car that you would like to have fairly decent gaps on), it takes time and patience. At this point I would like to think they are on for good, but you never know, so about a third of the bolts are holding them in place. I did use the Terostat stuff between the body and the fenders. It is sticky, but it will let them go if for some reason they need to come back off. Front fenders on means the front bumper can be fit! This went a little quicker with another pair of hands to help out. I am pleased with the fit and reveal up front, as well as the alignment and the front wheel arches: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171346.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171370.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171397.jpg I used some segments of an old front bumper seal to get the spacing right. I have since installed a new complete seal as a fit-check with good results. It was nice to have all the parts installed up front! That let me size up some front oil cooler mounting ideas on the RHS and determine how/where to install the horns. Looks like after a bit of rewiring on the harness, the best place for both of them will be tucked in on the LHS…. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318171451.jpg (OK, it looks like I pulled the bumper back off in there sometime for some reason. Must have been when I installed the complete seal.) |
Tire and wheel check.
I couldn’t resist trying this out once the fenders and bumper were on. My plan is to run standard .41 7x15’s with 205/55’s on all 4 corners since 69-73 flares were added to the back and I am doing all this work to fit flared fiberglass fenders up front. I believe it will be a nice balanced and simple look. I just happened to have a 7x15 with the correct tire mounted to play with :D:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318172440.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318172469.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318172494.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318172526.jpg Man, those look good to me! A good morale booster at the time (after all that work on the fenders). The 205’s are a little close to the height adjusting locknut on the Elephant rear ASP’s, but there are some options for dealing with that if there are any issues... |
Nominally, the height of the filler neck on the gas tank is 6 inches to the top of the cap. Since the top surface of the gas tank is slopped forward when installed, and the goal is to have the neck sticking straight up, the neck is installed tipped slightly towards the back of the car. Looking down at the top of the tank, the 9 and 3 o'clock positions measure about 5.5" above the top of the tank surface. The 6 o'clock position is about 5-15/16" and the 12 o'clock position is about 5".
Hope that is what you are after... |
what rear fender flares are you using
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R Front Lights
Now that the fenders were on, I decided to work on the front lights. The turn signal pockets are courtesy of TRE and have to be cut in. The orange lenses really provide the best template for this job and also help locate the whole assembly on the fender due to the curvatures in this area. After looking at lots of pictures and taking plenty of measurements, I went for it…
T/S assembly: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388778.jpg LHS marked: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388805.jpg Cut: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388829.jpg Pocket trimmed to size: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388858.jpg In place with epoxy (added some glass mat to the back side to make sure they stay put): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388894.jpg Also drilled the holes for the single bulb “parking light”: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318388933.jpg Same routine for the RHS. Glad to have that done! |
Front Bumper
Looks like this is when I came back and did the “final” fit up of the front bumper. Looks just about right. Tough to really size it all up with the contrasting colors. It seemed to be just a hair too wide, but I have it centered and the clearances to the body/latch panel are AOK (closer fit down there than I thought it would be). I am just “hanging” it from the lower flanges on the front fenders so that I can use the original bumper bracket interfaces to help me support the front oil cooler and the horns.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318389152.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318389175.jpg And outside for the first time in quite a while! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1318389209.jpg I think that gets things pretty well caught up. Truth be told, the power train has been removed since those last pictures were taken. I tell ya… the more time these things sit, the more time there is to change one’s mind! Since there is not enough to do on this project :rolleyes:, I have decided to add a fresh motor build into the mix. Something to do while it gets painted :D! Next on the big list is to fit the Euro H4’s up front and get them held in tight in the fiberglass buckets. Then I will move to the back and fit the rear bumper and decklid. Thanks for reading… |
H4 Fitting
Time to fit the Euro H4s to the fiberglass fenders. There is not much of anything to start with and the flange provided is pretty good but really too thick to function like it would on a steel fender. A blank slate:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320416958.jpg When in doubt, look for inspiration from the factory solution. On a steel fender, there is really just a lower tab to hold the screw for the sugar scoop (or light assembly in this case) and a protruding lip up top to catch the inside lip of the chrome ring. The perimeter seal fills in the gap and creates a bit of a preload. Seems better than trusting the fiberglass lip, so let’s go with that. Mocked-up upper and lower brackets: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320416987.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417006.jpg I had to cut away some fiberglass for the upper bracket to fall in the correct location. I also made it taller than it needed to be to start with so I had something to work with during final fit up. After lots of trial fitting, taking the H4 assembly apart and putting it back together multiple times, and shaving the fiberglass, I used 1/8” aluminum rivets to pin the final brackets in place (used washers on the backside to help give the rivets a better bite): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417073.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417095.jpg Finally the RHS was ready to go. There will be some more minor work when it comes time to install them for good with a (custom) seal after paint, but this gets the big part done. RHS installed with the lower screw: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417129.jpg Pretty much the same routine for the LHS, but nothing is ever quite the same side-to-side when you are working with fiberglass parts. As with the RHS, I used just the H4’s chrome ring on initial fit up to see where fiberglass was in the way and to help me locate the bottom bracket for the holding screw. Doing it this way made it a lot easier to see what was going on. I had to provide clearance for the aiming screws in a couple places: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417156.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417173.jpg Next time I have some fiberglass work to do, I will probably glass mat over the four brackets just in case. Here is a shot of the LHS all set to go: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1320417196.jpg Now that will get your R juices flowing :D… |
Hey Doug
Doug,
The project is looking pretty awesome. The 2.7 is going to make that thing a hairy ride. I hadn't checked in for a while and I'm glad you are posting again. I am at a similar stage in my project and it's good to see what you are up to. Thanks, Greg |
Sub'd
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Time for an update...
Been getting a few things done as of late. Back at the beginning of the year, I got the final item off my welding to-do list... lap belt hard points. I chose to make my own:
Outers: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338214581.jpg Inners (for in the tunnel): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338214638.jpg And installed (after WAY too much time spent thinking about where to locate them fore/aft): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338214741.jpg Nice to have that done... Big change of plans came next. I hauled the car to someone else's place for final bodywork and paint! The car has been gone now for about 3 months and it will be soooo cool to get it back ready for final assembly. Plus, it gives me time to focus on "something else"... |
The "Something Else"...
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338215507.jpg There are a few goodies hiding inside, but nothing too crazy: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338215768.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338215803.jpg Add to that a 4 rib oil pump, later sump screen, updated cam oil line restrictors, and fresh heads ported to 36mm I/35mm E, and here is where she sits today (with the SSIs on loose): http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338216057.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338216089.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1338216144.jpg I guess I skipped a few steps there, but I figure most of you guys are getting tired of seeing all those pictures of motors coming together :p. Always a relief to seal up a long block. Next up is rough fitting all the engine sheet metal and exhaust before sending parts out for their final coatings. Also waiting for the shroud to arrive. There should be some work there, too. |
Inspiration to us all. (I read every line today...instead of working on my own 78SC fuel line issues....found 3-77 on both pressure and return... I guess 35 years is not too bad from that rubber right?)
Love your thread. |
you massage some Gibbs into the Mg parts before putting it all back together
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I love this restoration !!!
on the time when I finish my 914 6 clone, I would make the same !!!!!! more people think wide-bodys are the goods but I love the narrows !!! good work !!!!! |
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