Dashboard removal and installation

[dtw]

Leland asked about doing the dash over in the windshield topic; I figured it merited a post all its own. While the windshield is not bad and even kinda fun, the dash requires some special original factory Hazet cursewords that are hard to find here in the US.

But if you feel your arsenal of invective is well stocked, first you'll need to make sure your hood shocks are up for staying up for a few hours.

-Remove the heating blower/valve cover at the rear of the boot under the cowl, and the diagonal cowl support strut. 6 bolts.
-remove hoses (but not cables) from all three heat/fresh air valves.
-unbolt all three units. The center unit requires removal of the fresh air grille and frame in the middle of the cowl. Behind there you'll see a couple long bolts that hold in the center unit. Unbolt 'em. The two side units are held down by an air deflecting grill under the dash inside the cabin. One grill on each vent, two allen head bolts in each.
-Now you are ready to tackle the nyloc nuts holding the face of the dash in place. You are going to have to reach up into places you didn't know existed in your car. Start on far right (driver side from this perspective) of the cowl and reach in there, past the relay cluster. You may have to remove the headlight relay to get access to the first nut. Then just keep hunting across the cowl; there are five nuts spaced out across the dash front. Each one has a washer behind it too! See if you can match me and successfully retrieve all the washers (evil evil).
-If you've got a dash center air vent, you'll need to reach behind the cowl and carefully pull back on the feeder duct for this vent- its the wide, flat one. After it's off the dash vent, you should be able to reach in and very gently push the vent from its seat in the dash.
-Now head back into the cabin and pop out your tach and speedo. If you've never done this, removing the steering wheel makes this easier but not necessary. Carefully slide a flat blade screwdriver behind the gauge base gasket on the dash and pry outward, minding the paint and base gasket puncture. Repeat a few times in a circle and the gauge will just pull right out. Tread lightly and watch your wiring.
-Reach into the hole and feel under the dash above the gauge hole. You should feel one more nut up there in the two holes. I may have the gauges wrong, if you don't feel them there try other gauges, but there are two nuts.
-If you haven't already, slide the center dash vent (if you have one) out and set it aside. It'll need cleaning!
-If you've not already done this, it is time to slice out your windshield gasket and remove the windshield. There's a post on this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum3/HTML/010081.html
The only thing I have to add is that you really need to use an extremely sharp and strong knife to do this. I usually use a big 4" hunting knife; in this case I had to settle for a rusty Swiss army knife. Lucky I didn't lose a finger.
-With the windshield out, you may or may not see seven screws holding the vinyl apron on the dash down to the sheetmetal. These will be spaced out along the windshield channel you just gained access to. You may not have these. My '72 coupe did not, the '78 turbo did.
-That should be it! Inspect to make sure you got all fasteners. Then enjoy the feeling of climbing into your baby through the windshield frame and grab the front of the dash and pull forward and up. Once the front is clear of its mooring in the dash, you can slide your hand or a big screwdriver under the top part of the dash to pop out the plastic clips that remain to hold in the dash. Lift the dash out of the car and check your fasteners- there should be 7 plastic clips. If not pop the broken or loose ones out of the sheetmetal in your car.
-Now is a good time to grab a beer and take a photo of the chassis number grease penciled on the sheetmetal on your dash.

-Before diving into the big pretty box labeled Porsche for your new dash, go back and clean up your windshield frame. More likely than not there's lots of adhesive, flaking paint, and rust in there that you don't want to get on your new dash! I vacuumed everything out, used 3M trim adhesive to remove the gum and adhesive, and then emory-clothed the rust.
-It is entirely possible there is too much rust in the lower corners of your windshield to proceed with a windshield installation. Patch if possible; if not all I can say is :
www.restoration-design.com

-Apply POR-15 over the problem areas and bare metal you have discovered in the channel. You want to prevent future rust!

-Now it is time to reinstall your dash! As you saw on removal, you have downward-pointing and horizontal-pointing studs that have to be located at the same time- be careful! Install the vertical stuff first and press in the plastic clips. Then carefully pull the front of the new dash forward and down into position. Try not to bend the dash too much but it is new and should be flexible.

-Everything else is pretty much reverse for installation. Be careful when you are hooking your heater flappers and blower back up, the plastic is old and breaks easily. Don't overtorque the bolts and don't wrestle them too much when fitting them back into position. Don't cut corners and leave a few of the nuts off the dash, I imagine it will start squeaking and making noises if it is not securely fastened.

-As for installing the windshield, this procedure is well-documented in the Haynes manual. There is also a post offering pointers at http://www.pelicanparts.com/ultimate/Forum3/HTML/010081.html

With fresh trim, new windshield, new gasket, and new dash, you're going to drop dead when you see how good it all looks.

-d


------------------
Dave
1972 911T (E motor) RSR replica project
http://members.nbci.com/dtwinters/garage/

[CamB]

Excellent summary. I would only add that if you are keeping your old dash be very careful with it - in, out and storage - they are fragile and will crack (further) easily.

I assume getting those little nyloc nuts to thread again is a real beatch.

Oh, and you can get the little plastic clips from various sources. So I am told.

Cam

[Leland Pate]

Wow, dtw...

Thank you very much. I have printed this out and it has now found a home in my personal PP BBS Info. Binder. That is where only the really good threads go.
Appreciate it!

Lee

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Dashing is a nice work. The dashes are different there are; 66, 66-68, 69-76, 77-85, 86-89 and 964/993. If the window is out it is very easy and comfortable to work on them. Clean parts, no smoke or oil, everything visible and easy to reach with the right tools.

Just think positive and stay patiemce and everything flows. And allways say: It could be worser, it could be a Maserti Ghibli, Ferrari 365 GTB, Alfa Romeo Bertone, Citroen SM, Mercedes 111 or late SL or a newer big BMW.

Sometimes it would be good to have dwarf sized hands.

Grüsse

[cds72911]

I used a razor knife (also called a sheetrock knife) to remove my window seals. You can get them at almost any home improvement or hardware store (mine is a metal Stanley brand that has lasted years). The removable blade is a heavy duty double ended razor blade.

It is a razor, so it is sharp. It has a large safe handle so you can get a good grip and not cut yourself. And best of all, if your blade gets dull or covered with adhesive, you can flip it around or install a new blade in about 45 seconds.

Works like a charm. Saves the Swiss army knife for camping...

Charlie