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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Bournemouth, England
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Hi all,
I had my 69 911engine tuned a few months ago on a rolling road. The engine was set up perfectly (it's a standard 69 110bhp engine) and run very well. Recently the webbers have started "popping" back through the carbs. Since the tuning nothing has changed. The only thing which has changed is the weather which has recently become a lot colder here in the UK. It seems to do this at no specific time or cylinder, i.e. does it at idle and also when revving, does it when cold and also when hot. And does it both carb banks. I removed the air filter and (using a mirror) I can see what seems to be the fuel igniting in the barrel of the carb. I thought I’d get a bit of advice before tampering with the set up.. Does it sound a bit lean.....Any ideas !! Thanks in advance Alan 67 – with 69 911 engine |
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RETIRED
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I have the same motor in my 914/6....it does the same thing. You need to richen up the mixture or live with it...my plugs look good, so I just see it as a Porsche Quirk....
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1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
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Join Date: Sep 2001
Location: Cornwall – SW England
Posts: 134
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As winter draws on in the UK, the air becomes more dense and damp = more oxygen. This means mixture gets slightly leaned out, so a readjustment of idle mixture screws is in order to stop popping at idle. It is similar to the reason why racers have to rejet their cars according to whether they are racing at sea level or in the mountains.
If the jetting was sorted out on a rolling road in summer, the chances are that the idle jets may be a tad too small - most rolling road operators set the jetting up as lean as they can get away with as most customers want optimum performance with minimum fuel wastage. When you rev the engien at rest, the chances are you are only running on the idle jets. Webers (and Dell'Ortos also) draw on the idle jets until about a third opening. Out on the road, with the car under load, you use wider throttle openings and the chances are that you won't experience the popping you describe except when you throttle back and cruise on part throttle. If you can't dial out the popping with the idle screws, try going up half a size on the idle jets. Hope this helps! ![]()
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Factory-stock 914/6 & 210bhp 2.7 Carrera (oh, and a Porsche tractor...) |
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Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Lacey, WA. USA
Posts: 25,310
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Yes, this is evidence (or proof) of a lean mixture. DO NOT locate your face above the carburetor venturis while the engine is running. It is very dangerous. Guess how I know this.
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Man of Carbon Fiber (stronger than steel) Mocha 1978 911SC. "Coco" |
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Left Coast, Canada
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That's a tidy lookin' engine room ya got there Alan.UK
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'81 SC Coupe "Blue Bomber" "Keep your eyes on the road, and your hands upon the wheel."- J.D.M. |
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Shreveport, La.
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Hey Super, how long does it take for eyebrows to grow back??
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Robert Stoll 83 911 SC 83 944 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
Posts: 28,943
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Alan,
The above is correct about its being a lean mixture but try looking at the idle jets. My 72 had the same problem and I found it to be rust in the tank/fuel lines. Clogged up every few months until I put a couple of extra filters inline. Never did find the problem as the car was stolen. Blow the jets out with air (there are six of them) and then try the car. The 911 motor runs on the idle jets up to 2500 rpm or so when the mains take over, but the acc pump will get it off line OK. Then after its still running on the idle jets (but off of the acc pump) uthey tend to pop a bit when lean. JA
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB |
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Alan,
By all means, check for any rust or particulate matter in your carb bowls, as you never know what the last fuel truck brought to your local gas station! But, you also may want to consider bumping up your idle jets from 55 to 60, or 60 to 65 ... because your engine runs on the idle jets ALL the way to the 3500 to 4000 rpm range, and that makes them Quite Important!!! So, if your engine is sensitive to minor changes in humidity, then perhaps it is on the lean side.
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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thanks and pic
Hi all
Thanks for all your help and advice (Keith, JA, Warren and others) I'm going to richen up the mixture a little on each carb later tonight. Like Keith says it's probably due to the cold. If anyone is interested in the results, send a private mail and I'll keep you updated. I will also look into larger idle jets, but when the car was first tuned, boy did it run well. Sounded great and pulled fantastically especially considering it was the lowest BHP of the 911’s. I've also added a few extra pics when it was at the rolling road. Thanks again Alan ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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I like that fuel set up. Is that a Facet fuel pump? What is it mounted to? Are those standard fuel lines available anywhere (pretty colors!)
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Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Bournemouth, England
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Hi Joe,
I was going to mail you later. The pump is a Facet (spelling) electric pump, which pushes out 3.5 psi. I have attached to the rear of the engine bay using two rubber fittings. Being rubber it stops all the noise and vibration. They are really cheap and for sale in most local auto stores. They were designed to attach the exhaust to the car. The fuel pipe is standard 8mm unleaded stuff I bought from the same local auto store. HTH Alan |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
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Alan,
Boy you bring back memories with the last picture! Jeez... the hours I spent on my knees massaging the webers in my car! I wish that there would have been an internet and Pelican site to help at this time. Remember that the car may have run fine six months before but that was not winter. If you could bump up your idle jets a notch or so it might be a lot more driveable in winter. Also, the webers have no choke so starting is more difficult and any "help with the idle jets" will make the motor start easier. When you are checking your idle jets for dirt, they are so small that it takes very little to clog them. I used to take them off and blow them out with compressed air even when they looked OK, and it usually helped with the idle and running up to when the main jets take over. When you take the tops of the carbs off, if you find any sediment in the bowls then I would start to put extra filters inline. Let us know how it works! JA
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB Last edited by Joeaksa; 11-21-2001 at 10:07 AM.. |
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Alan, I see you have your pump in the rear of the car, do you also have one by the tank to get the fuel to the rear? I also see a small black line coming off the T fitting, is that for a guage?
Thanks Tom 71T 2.4
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Tom 71T http://www.cheaterswayside.com/911/gallery.asp?sort=0&userid=173 |
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Hi Tom,
I just have the one pump which works fine. The T piece you see is connected to a tempery gauge which I used to measure the fuel pressure whist on the rolling road. HTH Alan |
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My car had a return line to the tank, I guess you do not need that. I have it blocked off now but was not sure what to do with it, now I know. Thanks.
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Tom 71T http://www.cheaterswayside.com/911/gallery.asp?sort=0&userid=173 |
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You do not have permissi
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: midwest
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Get some kneepads.
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