911 Ball Joint Replacement--A "How To"

[RoyB]

I just added an article with full color pictures on how to replace the ball joints on your Porsche 911

Hope it helps!


RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision

[Rot 911]

Excellent write up and pictures!

[Fishbulb]

Geez Roy, nice work! I love the rest of your rather eclectic website, as well. Thanks for the article(s).

[RWebb]

nice writeup - BTW I push 2 tabs on the star washer up into the recessed cutout on the ball joint nut

[Peter Zimmermann]

This is the tool that you need to R&I the ball joint nut. I would have photographed mine but I can't find it!

http://www.**********.com/product.asp?pf%5Fid=P909941&dept%5Fid=5053

[RoyB]

Linky no worky........

[Peter Zimmermann]

Hmmmm...

Enter: Performance Products and ********** in your address bar
Click: Parts for your Porsche
On the home page: Enter "1983 SC" and "Tools" in the keyword box.
Scroll down the page to find an image of a round, black socket for ball joints.

I don't know why the part of the name "Autom...." won't print???

Hint: Add "otion" to the above...

[rusnak]

May I offer a few humble suggestions?

The ball joint nut does not need to be cut off. I have done a few of these, and I usually forget, then remember again, to use a large pipe wrench. A pipe wrench will not damage the nut, and you'll be able to re-use it. The ball joint nut socket from Pelican is a freakishly expensive tool, and you do not want to use it except for final tightening w a torque wrench. In fact, I need to probably repair mine with some welding rod and a die grinder.

I use some anti seize on the balljoint nut, which helps to get up to torque, and on the wedge pin, which helps to get it fully seated. Also on the balljoint pin.

If you ever have to remove the tie rods, do not use a pickle fork or you could tear the rubber, ruining those turbo tie rod ends. Use a tie rod tool, which does not put force against the rubber. There will be no damage to the tie rod end, and therefore it pays for itself with one use.

[RoyB]

Like I said, many ways to skin a cat! I'm just not a fan of pipe wrenches on a car like this. I'd rather use as little force as possible, even if it means buying two new castle nuts. Just my opinion.......

Thanks for the comments. As you read in my article, I'm a big fan of Never Seeze. I put it in my oatmeat, use it as hair cream........love the stuff....

I don't believe I posted anything about using pickle forks on the tie rod ends.....?

thanks

[rusnak]

No sir, Roy you did not. I should have made it more clear that I was relaying additional info for your post or blog. A lot of times if you're doing something like changing out the shock cartridge, or replacing the strut bearings, you'll cover these same steps.

I like using as little force as possible, which is why I have many sizes of pipe wrench. You got your sleek little aluminum sporty model, and then the big boy red steel ones in size BW to BFW. Just kidding. It's counter-intuitive to use a crude tool, but it works beautifully. It's one of those things that you don't admit to doing except among friends.

[RoyB]

it's one of those things that you don't admit to doing except among friends.

Now that's funny................But I agree!

[RWebb]

don't think I'd want to reuse an old new castle nut

[Peter Zimmermann]

My (Red Line's) factory ball joint nut tool is so good that you can take the old nut off using it and a 1/2" drive impact wrench. For installation, the 181 lb/ft of torque has to be carefully applied to avoid slippage.

[umgang]

No offense here Pete, BUT....the Performance Products ball joint removal tool is a POS.
It sheared off it's tabs as they are made of cheap Chinese pot metal.
What you need and must have is the Sir Tool part number P210 Pin wrench Socket for $ 62.95.
go to sirtools.com
This place has all the Porsche factory tools you cannot get anymore, hub pullers etc....
Do it right with the right tools.

[rusnak]

He said he has the factory ball joint tool.

I have the Sir Tools one (I think). I'll have to find it and photograph the carnage done from one ball joint removal.

[holtjv]

Dremel and one cut through, then the pelican socket spun the nut right off. 20 minutes max. No way the socket was going to work with the nut regardless of the length of the breaker bar--wouldn't seat deeply enough. I like the pipe wrench idea and should have thought of it. But also don't like to yoink on the car real hard when it's on stands.

Do you guys do the final torque when the car's on the ground?



Thanks

[RoyB]

Do you guys do the final torque when the car's on the ground?

No, I did it with the car on jack stands..........180+# of torque is tough to do no matter what wrench and where the car is. The Porsche castle nut makes it just shy of impossible. Terrible design ......

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by umgang

No offense here Pete, BUT....the Performance Products ball joint removal tool is a POS.
It sheared off it's tabs as they are made of cheap Chinese pot metal.

Somehow this doesn't surprise me at all. Just another crappy aftermarket piece. The only reason for my post was to show that there is a special tool for the job, and there it was. I've never used one, and I also mentioned that my socket was the factory tool, which has replaced countless ball joints during the last 25+ years.

[rusnak]

I use two jacks in tandem to raise just the front of the car without putting torsion on the body. The rear was left on the ground with the parking brake set. The car was very stable and was not going to go anywhere.

After thinking about this, I don't think I'd go with the jack under the balljoint nut until it was pretty much tightened, and then you would only want enough pressure against the nut to keep it seated. Too much force on an untightened nut would cause the thread area to deform. As I mentioned, I used the pipe wrench to tighten the nut, then the balljoint tool to do the final tightening with the torque wrench. You must keep even force on the nut/socket or it will pop free or damage the nut.

[RoyB]

Too much force on an untightened nut would cause the thread area to deform

I don't think so. The ball joint would just move up in the hole, compressing the strut with it. There is actually very little upward pressure on the ball joint itself. All the pressure is on the castle nut, stopped by the control arm.

A bigger concern is a false reading on the torque wrench as the friction on the back of the torque wrench will ad to the total torque value. This is why I used a socket with a bit of grease on it against the back of the torque wrench. Folks that are using a jack with a rubber pad against the torque wrench are getting a false reading. I'm not sure how much it matters.

Some machine shop could make up hundreds of hex nuts with this thread in about 1/2 a day and stop all this nonsense. (Pelican Parts, are you listening?)