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Rear Shocks Done!....Are you kidding me!!!

I sure hope I never meet the German engineer that designed the rear shock top mounts and didn't allow for the shock rod to be indexed so it doesn't turn when you try and loosen the nut. And since there is acres of room up there it's real easy to grab the top of the pin with a set of vice grips to stop it from turning....NOT!!!

And this is the very first time I removed the rear clips on my air filter box. Usually I just undo the two on the front and slide the filters in and out. But to access the top of the right shock you need to remove the cover. I bet there are very few 911s running around with that rear bottom clip attached properly. Unless you have VERY small hands and wrists, there is no way you are going to reach it...........

I wrote a whole article with pictures and the tools I used to perform this shock replacement. It will be on my web site momentarily

RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision


Now I have to go stop the bleeding on all the cuts on my hands and wrists.....

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Old 02-18-2010, 08:11 AM
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It's been a while since I did this, but I believe the top of the shock rod has a hex-head recess to hold the rod from turning. Also, I have found it is easier to reach the rear airbox clips by reaching up from the bottom of the airbox instead of from the top and down.

Edit - That might have been the Bilstien Sport replacements, not the original shocks, with the hex recess...

Wow...I even had a picture...
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Last edited by aj88cab; 02-18-2010 at 08:37 AM..
Old 02-18-2010, 08:29 AM
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The shocks that came out and the replacement simply had a couple of flats for a small wrench. The hex head is a good idea, but it would have been tight even for that on my car. Your car looks like it has tons of room up there. No AC? I've got hoses and pipes running all over the place above the shocks.

The article I wrote and the method I used to secure the shock from spinning is now up on my web page.

Porsche 911 Rear Shock Remove And Replace | RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision

RVB Precision - Welcome to the world of ultra precision
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:03 AM
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I think most guys use a small wrench to keep the shock top from spinning. I have a set of shock installation tools made by Lisle Tool Co. I think I bought them at Pep Boys. If I remember, I'll grab them and post pics later.

It's not a good idea to not attach all 4 clips. The airbox will distort, and the air filter will not be doing it's job of filtering the intake air.

Here's a tip that I swear will work. Loosen the AC compressor mounting bolts, loosen the belt, and remove it from the AC compressor. Then remove the 3 cap bolts that hold the compressor onto it's mounting saddle. Lift the compressor out, and place it on top of the intake plenum. Now there will be a hole where the ac hoses used to be, and you can put your arm through there, and easily reach the lower clip. Re-installing the ac compressor only takes a few minures. Done.
Old 02-18-2010, 09:11 AM
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Quote:
It's not a good idea to not attach all 4 clips. The airbox will distort, and the air filter will not be doing it's job of filtering the intake air.
Understood! But my point is, most mechanics will take a path of least resistance, especially if the owner can't see it and I suggested that they will not latch this fourth latch. This is why I like to do my own work. I simply don't trust mechanics for most things. Now don't go crazy. I know there are plenty of good mechanics out there that do everything to the 100th percentile. But the only way I know something is getting done to this level, is if I do it myself. Just my opinion....

Example:
Adjusting bucket and shim valves on most motorcycles is a real pain in the arse. Twice I brought motorcycles to different dealers and put a thin piece of thread across the gap of the motor's head to see if they really did pull the head. In both cases, the thread was not moved and I was assured the valves were checked and adjusted. They even charged me for shims. Batstards!

Mechanics usually get paid for speed. No mater how you look at it. The faster they are, the more money they make. This leads to shortcuts.

If you have a mechanic that you can 110% trust, you are a lucky person.....Hold him close to your vest and tip him big at Christmas!

(BTW, removing an AC pump to snap one clip is a deal breaker.............If I find that engineer, he's had it!)..... :-)
The box only needed a couple of tabs and two slots on the back side. We're not reinventing the wheel here!
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Last edited by RoyB; 02-18-2010 at 09:26 AM..
Old 02-18-2010, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyB View Post
No AC? I've got hoses and pipes running all over the place above the shocks.
Yes, there was no A/C at the time...definitely would make a difference now that you mention it
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyB View Post
And this is the very first time I removed the rear clips on my air filter box. Usually I just undo the two on the front and slide the filters in and out. But to access the top of the right shock you need to remove the cover. I bet there are very few 911s running around with that rear bottom clip attached properly. Unless you have VERY small hands and wrists, there is no way you are going to reach it...........

Now I have to go stop the bleeding on all the cuts on my hands and wrists.....
I just lube up my arm with soapy water. You can get your arm in far enough that way. Just wipe off the excess soapy water from the engine parts.
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Old 02-18-2010, 09:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyB View Post
And this is the very first time I removed the rear clips on my air filter box. Usually I just undo the two on the front and slide the filters in and out. But to access the top of the right shock you need to remove the cover. I bet there are very few 911s running around with that rear bottom clip attached properly. Unless you have VERY small hands and wrists, there is no way you are going to reach it...........
Yes, Virginia, there is a reason many 911s are running around w/ K&N style air filters that attach directly to the mass aif flow opening and it's neither bling nor huge power increases.
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Old 02-18-2010, 01:49 PM
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I had a similar issue with mine at a "reputable" shop in town. They screwed up once by overfilling my oil by two quarts. The service manager was kind enough to replace my filter for free, clean up any oil on the engine and offer my next oil change for free. I checked their work after I got home and lo and behold, both clips on the back of the air box were not on.

When I hooked them back up, I too found it easier to get to the lower clip from below. I just recommend waiting until the oil has cooled. Never mind the minor cuts and scrapes. Those burns can be damn painful.
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Old 02-18-2010, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RoyB View Post
I sure hope I never meet the German engineer that designed the rear shock top mounts and didn't allow for the shock rod to be indexed so it doesn't turn when you try and loosen the nut. And since there is acres of room up there it's real easy to grab the top of the pin with a set of vice grips to stop it from turning....NOT!!!

Now I have to go stop the bleeding on all the cuts on my hands and wrists.....
LOL!

Try replacing shocks on a carbed car. It's cake. That is how those German Engineers designed it. It was brilliant.

As the car evolved from the original design, access got harder. First with the CIS in 73.5, then finally with the EFI it was hopeless.

The solution is to drop the engine down about 6 inches to gain access to the shock tops. Once you know how to lower the engine, it is a 5 minute operation. This is far, far faster and easier than trying to grow the needed extra joint in your forearm to install with engine in place.
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Old 02-18-2010, 05:48 PM
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"Zis is ridiculous! Make it easier to change ze shocks!"

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Old 02-18-2010, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 304065 View Post
"Zis is ridiculous! Make it easier to change ze shocks!"

Are they supporting the car with the jack under the engine?!? And no jack stands with someone laying under the car... Tsk, tsk...
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Old 02-18-2010, 08:46 PM
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This is a good application for one of those ratcheting stubby wrenches.
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Old 02-19-2010, 04:31 AM
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A stubby, flexible, 17mm ratchet wrench, that I had to purchase to change out the oil sender (another reason to want to find a Porsche engineer in a dark ally) was what I used on the top of the shocks..........Worked great!
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Old 02-20-2010, 08:49 AM
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A 3.2 engine with a "sectioned" air filter housing.... a la "Cup" cars.... is the ticket. Gets rid of that snorkel and the removable part of the air filter housing allows you to both "see" and actually "use" all 4 clips !!!

Found this link---> Cup filter lid
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Last edited by Wil Ferch; 02-21-2010 at 04:49 PM..
Old 02-21-2010, 04:02 PM
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You should try replacing the rear shocks on a Ford Crown Vic! Usually rusted badly and fuel lines right in the way! I'll do 911 rear shocks anyday over these!
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Old 02-21-2010, 05:19 PM
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How would you know the rear shocks on a Crown Vic even needed replacement.....
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:59 PM
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It's one of those jobs that you only do when you absolutely have to! And considering that you ony get paid a little over an hour for both, I'm sure that they hardly ever need replacing!
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Old 02-23-2010, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syzygy View Post
Are they supporting the car with the jack under the engine?!? And no jack stands with someone laying under the car... Tsk, tsk...
Ya'll realize the original 356 engine replacement instructions said to have a person lay under the car and hold the engine while the vehicle was moved out of the way don't you?

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Old 02-23-2010, 06:11 PM
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