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Strut Insets Boge/Bilstein Bilstein/Boge - which is it?

"If you have Boge housings you need to order the Bilstein inserts for those and vice versa.Porsche 911 & Carrera Suspension - Page 1

They are not interchangeable. Replacing them is pretty straightforward."


Wow - now I am really confused -

So you mean the new boge inserts I just bought will not fit into the Boge struts on my car but I must use Bilsteins?

Old 02-22-2010, 11:27 AM
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As was mentioned in the other thread:
Boge strut: Boge insert or Boge specific Bilstien insert or Boge specific Koni insert
Bilstein strut: Bilstein specific inset (don't think you can put Boge in at all)
Koni strut: Koni insert (again, I think it's you're only choice).
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Last edited by Pazuzu; 02-22-2010 at 11:35 AM..
Old 02-22-2010, 11:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newuser11 View Post
"If you have Boge housings you need to order the Bilstein inserts for those and vice versa.Porsche 911 & Carrera Suspension - Page 1

They are not interchangeable. Replacing them is pretty straightforward."


Wow - now I am really confused -

So you mean the new boge inserts I just bought will not fit into the Boge struts on my car but I must use Bilsteins?
Hi,

Welcome to the BBS.

I see you posted this questiobn in another thread here as well. See my response there:

Quote:
Originally Posted by HarryD View Post
Hi,

I do not know where you saw that on page one but all it really means is that the Bilstein Strut Insert for the Bilstein housing will not fit a Boge housing and visa versa.
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Old 02-22-2010, 11:32 AM
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Whew! - thanks - scared me for a minute there..
Old 02-22-2010, 11:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by newuser11 View Post
Whew! - thanks - scared me for a minute there..
Most people I talk with or who comment on these forums agree that the Bilstein-to-Boge replacement struts are going to perform better than the new Boge. If you can exchange the Boges, you may want to read up on the differences to see if you would prefer the Bilstein before digging in.

BTW, the installation is straightforward but not easy. You need the right tools and count on a few hours for the first one and about half that for the second. Getting the threads at the top of the strut to release can be a bugger. Some people (and the shop manual if I remember correctly) recommend removing the entire strut and putting it in a vise to get the threads loose but you have to undo the brake line which means catching fluid and bleeding the lines when you put it back together. A second set of hands to clamp the lower strut housing with big ChannelLocks (use a shop rag to buffer the strut housing wall) while you loosen the threads can make a world of difference if you leave the strut in the car (which is how I did it). The Boge strut has oil in the bottom that you will want to clean out completely before you install the new one. Not sure if the Boge strut kit has replacement oil but I'd guess it does. The Bilstein goes in dry.
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Old 02-22-2010, 12:09 PM
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Hi,

Got your PM but ask your questions here. There are those who know much more than I and you will get the straight skinny.

Here in Portland, for Suspension work, I would consult with Steve Weiner or Rennsport Systems. He will fix you up with what you need and his shop can a a great job of tuning your suspension once it is installed.

To help us out, please add your location to tyour profile.

Also, besides getting involved with the local PCA Chapter (Oregon Region Porsche Club of America), check this thread to meet others in the area: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/pacific-northwest-us-wa-id-ut-hi-ak/500446-oregon-pdx-beers-burgers-9-30-a.html
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1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here}
1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey"
2020 MB E350 4Matic
Old 02-22-2010, 02:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbuswell View Post
Most people I talk with or who comment on these forums agree that the Bilstein-to-Boge replacement struts are going to perform better than the new Boge. If you can exchange the Boges, you may want to read up on the differences to see if you would prefer the Bilstein before digging in.

BTW, the installation is straightforward but not easy. You need the right tools and count on a few hours for the first one and about half that for the second. Getting the threads at the top of the strut to release can be a bugger. Some people (and the shop manual if I remember correctly) recommend removing the entire strut and putting it in a vise to get the threads loose but you have to undo the brake line which means catching fluid and bleeding the lines when you put it back together. A second set of hands to clamp the lower strut housing with big ChannelLocks (use a shop rag to buffer the strut housing wall) while you loosen the threads can make a world of difference if you leave the strut in the car (which is how I did it). The Boge strut has oil in the bottom that you will want to clean out completely before you install the new one. Not sure if the Boge strut kit has replacement oil but I'd guess it does. The Bilstein goes in dry.
I replaced my dead Boges with Bilsteins. Pretty straightforward.

You do not need to remove the strut from the car but you need to be careful to not damage the Brake lines.

When you pull the strut out, that foul smelling oil will splash on your brakes if you are not ready.

The Bilsteins will raise your car a bit so you will need to get your ride heights and corner weights redone.
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1970 VW Sunroof Bus - "The Magic Bus"
1971 Jaguar XKE 2+2 V12 Coupe - {insert name here}
1973.5 911T Targa - "Smokey"
2020 MB E350 4Matic
Old 02-22-2010, 02:09 PM
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yeah i echo Harrys comments. best to do it on the car .. nothing is going to hold the strut better than that. I would recomend lining the fender with painters mask ( lo tac) and then over that a couple layers of duct tape to protect the fender. This small 5 minutes gould save you a chip. the ret is pretty straight forward.... just be carfull to get all the oil out or it will be all over your caplipers...
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:44 PM
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Old 02-23-2010, 03:54 PM
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