What Brake Fluid Are You Using?

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by Gunter

...

Some have posted that [exercising the pistons to prevent rusting/seizing] should'nt be done because it may move the pistons into areas of the bore that may contain dirt/debris. That makes no sense because when one installs new pads, the pistons have to be pushed back all the way. ...

I guess the ultimate solution is to burn your way thru pads so fast that the pistons get exercised before rust can set in!


I'm sure the anti-exercise advocates are thinking of the m/c and analogizing to the calipers...

[Gunter]

Analogizing calipers??

How about: "Bilateral symbionic molecular fusion"

Changing brake fluid and bleeding the system is a very simple procedure; no need for great expertise or a College degree.

A lot of street cars go for years with the same pads and fluid meaning the caliper-pistons stay virtually in the same place. It's a law of nature that moisture in oils sinks to the lowest levels which are the calipers. And that means the pistons can and will seize. It also means that the intended retraction of the pistons due to the square-seal design is not happening. Result: The pads stay in close contact with the rotors creating unwanted heat and wear.

If that doesn't make sense, then don't ever exercise the pistons, never pump the MC and just rebuild the calipers more often.

Do what feels good.

[sig_a]

Pentosin "Racing Brake Fluid" 200 C degrees (392 F) wet, 300 C degrees (572 F) dry, which is considerably higher than ATE Blue/Gold and is $16 per liter at my Loveland, OH auto parts store.

I bet there isn't anyone out there who could tell the difference between Pentosin Racing and Motul RBF 600 (216 C/312 C), except the Motul is almost three times more expensive.

[efhughes3]

I don't agree with your "dare". 12c is over 50f, which is not insignificant. I'm also not sure how you figure 3x difference in price, maybe twice as much-which works out to maybe $15-chump change IMO.

[450knotOffice]

Originally Posted by Gunter

I found that pushing the pads/pistons back is easiest with large channel-pliers gripping the steel-portion of the pads and the caliper-body and then squeeze.

Haha! So I'm NOT the only guy who does that!

[sig_a]

Originally Posted by 450knotOffice

Haha! So I'm NOT the only guy who does that!

You guys are wimps. Just use your thumbs/fingers.

[450knotOffice]

Originally Posted by sig_a

Pentosin "Racing Brake Fluid" 200 C degrees (392 F) wet, 300 C degrees (572 F) dry, which is considerably higher than ATE Blue/Gold and is $16 per liter at my Loveland, OH auto parts store.

I bet there isn't anyone out there who could tell the difference between Pentosin Racing and Motul RBF 600 (216 C/312 C), except the Motul is almost three times more expensive.

I can tell the difference, because I used it and got brake fade at the track. With Motul, I have yet to experience any significant brake fade.

[Jeff Alton]

We have found on more than one occasion that switching from ATE to Motul solved the fade problem for stock braked Carrera's at DE's.

Not saying it is a cure, just that for the use that these cars were seeing, it made a difference, a big difference.

Cheers