Anyone have measurements for front spindle wear

[brittbolen]

DTW came over today to help me do front rotors and pads on my 70E, and well, DTW starts asking questions, and looking at things, and well crap there is more work to be done.... Looks like my spindles are worn, possibly too much....

Does anyone have measurements for how much wear is too much on a front spindle? I just want to have something to compare to when I measure my spindles.

What do people think? I'd like comments on how this wear looks

Left side:

this is the side we were most concerned with... looks like the bearing started to chew up the spindle.



Right side:

The wear isn't as pronounced but you can still see it.



All the images:

http://eludicate.com/~bolen/911E/spindles/

Dave you want to comment here?

thanks for any and all opinions!

Britt

[holtjv]

I just put in new bearings and put the hubs back on today. My spindles show none of the wear yours do.

What does the hub do on the spindle? Wobble, clunk, etc? And have you put in new inner bearings? I would def do this before worrying about new struts b/c after pressing in new inners the fit was much tighter than before--in fact I had to heat one hub to get it to seat to the spacer, it was so tight.

Regardless, if the wheel hub isn't moving around too much I don't see why there would be a problem with wear on the spindle. Jack

[brittbolen]

Well I was changing the rotors/pads because when I really get the brakes warmed up I get a nasty shake while braking, this would usually be combined with a vibration when off the brakes as well, but just a subtle vibration.

The rotors actually look fine (drilled vented zimmermans), but the pads (Ferodos I installed 6 years ago) were missing chunks. I hadn't even considered bearings until DTW started looking at things. The bearings are old, at least 20 years, but aren't original as they were by Timmins and made in the USA.

B

[dtw]

The left side strut (first pic), was significantly more galled than the right. The picture unfortunately doesn't do it justice - the damage looks worse in-person than it does in the pic. Trial fitting a wheel bearing between the two struts, fit was noticeably more sloppy on the left strut. My finger-micrometer thinks that it notes some taper on the inner bearing race surface, but we didn't have anything to measure it with, so that is just a subjective impression.

Going to try to find some factory specs on spindle runout, but I think you're in for at least one replacement strut housing.

[berettafan]

Had checked my old struts at one point but the truth of it is even with good instrumentation it's a tough thing to quantify. Even watched a much lauded 'expert' check my spindles for out of round and am convinced his findings were fudged.

Your wheel either wobbles or it doesn't when checked properly and not overtightened.

[Grady Clay]

I can’t tell from your images but …

Critical is which kind of strut, ball joint and attachment were installed when your original 911E Hydropneumatic struts were replaced with the Koni struts.

Do you have the ‘pinch-bolt’ type or the ‘wedge-pin’ type?

If you have the pinch-bolts, buy new struts (with spindles), ball joints and wedge pins. In my opinion the pinch-bolt type should have been recalled.

If ‘wedge-pin’ type, then continue….




Actually, there aren’t any ‘wear’ surfaces on the front spindle itself.

That said, there are two important ‘slip-fit’ surfaces and a ‘press-fit’ surface. These surfaces never wear but are subject to damage from some failure or corrosion.

Of course there are the threads. They have to allow the ‘adjusting nut’ to spin on easily yet allow the nut to clamp tight.

The most important surfaces are the radius between the inner bearing slip-fit surface and the seal race press-fit surface and the smaller polished radius behind the seal race where the O-ring is located. These radius surfaces are critical for spindle integrity.

The wear surface is the replaceable seal race.

Use a puller and remove the seal races. You may want new seal races in any case. You will need new O-rings that go between the seal race and spindle.

Once the seal race is off, remove the O-ring (or parts) and clean the spindles of all grease and oil. Use a marker to highlight any damage.


While you have the seal race off, take an image of that area of the spindle/strut. You should grind two small ‘notches’ for the puller clearance when removing the seal races. I can show you the best place.

Best,
Grady

[Chuck Moreland]

Originally Posted by brittbolen

Britt

Looks like you had a seized bearing.

That spindle is toast.