power window troubleshooting assistance

[shoebox]

1982 911 sc

I've read all the posts (power windows) and have not been able to find a solution for my power window woes. There's is no power going into my red wires to the door. I swapped the relay (3rd closest to the instruments), relay okay. Checked the fuse and replaced (1st fuse closest to the instruments) no power there. Am I checking the right fuse? On the inside cover of the fuse box, it states it's for the windows. My troubles began after I button up my door panel after aligning the door and window frame. I ran a hot wire to the switches and everything operated like it should. Is there another connection from the fender well to the inside of the trunk? Not sure what to do...

What I do know,

1. Windows use to work with ignition on.
2. I'm unsure if I change the right fuse (it's a white one, I believe it's an 8 amp).
3. I'm unsure if there's another connection to the wiring harness trunk to fender, fender to switch.
4. Switches and relay are okay.
5. The harness in the door has know signs of cuts or shorts.
7. I searched for another round black relay near the instrument panel but couldn't locate it.
6. I need your help.

Please help me troubleshoot...

Thank you

[Oh Haha]

Are you SURE the relay is good? Swap it with your horn relay and see, just to rule it out as the cause.

It sounds like you have replaced/checked the correct fuse.

You should check the bulkhead connectors under the dash/steering column. There are 4 round connectors. You'll have to get your head under there to see them. Make sure they are seated.

I'm off to bed but others will surely give you some other ideas. Good luck and let us know what you find, please.

[shoebox]

Wayne, yes I'm positive the relay is working. I swapped it and even tooted the horn. I'll check the bulkhead connectors in the morning.

Thanks

[woland]

Hi

If you follow with the hand the path that wires follow from the side of the door you will find a soket A) on the top of the fender.



There is yust the place to connect/disconnect it with the fingers.
Inside the top fender there is a strip B) that keeps 3/4 spare inches of the wire
This will permit you to pull a little the wires

While disconnected you can verify with the ohmeter if the red wire has a crack between the socket and the switch.

You also can test the motor applyng an external 12V source after disconnecting the door switch (wires coming from the fuse box/wires going to the motor).



In this way you will know if the problems come from motor (not probable) or from the wires. Often the crack comes in the point where the wires bend opening and closing the door.