Distributor question -
 

Hi All -
Will the stock dizzy that is on my CIS injected 2.7 work when I convert to carbs?

If so, being that the dizzy has a vacuum port, do I need to tap into a carb body to get a vaccum source - or is one even needed?

Thanks!!
Scott S

It will work, yes. It will not work very well.

Send it to Barry Hershon for a rebuild, recurve, vacuum delete, mechanical advance, etc. It will make a world of difference.

It's very mild. Depending on the type dizzy you have, you can recurve it for the popular "RS" curve or a modified version of one. The 184 series of Dizzys are the nicest ones as they are very rebuildable and the curve does degrade as much over time as it's predecessors.

Thanks very much.

Is that Barry at IAE? I just spoke to him on the phone, seems to know his stuff backwards and forwards.


Thanks Again -
Scott S

Yes.

But it will work fine for now, just don't use the vacuum advance, just the mechanical advance.

Can a new distributor just be bought? Is a re curve better?
I am in the same boat. Just converted to PMOs last week, my distributor has about 200,000 miles on it.
I wouldn't mind just buying a new one if Pelican sells one that would be perfect.
Do they sell an RS distributor or is an RS not the best because of the CIS cams.

A recurve is pretty inexpensive - much cheaper than buying an RS or s curved distributor outright.

I had mine done for under $200 last year.

Yes a recurve is what is needed. You want 35 degrees inside the distributor (5 btdc to 30 degrees aftc) but you want full advance at 3000 rpms for max performance while still being able to run 92 octane chevron.

a rebuild replaces all the wear parts, bushings, etc. it comes back like new.

if you buy new, you will pay 1,125 and you will still need a recurve to get the full potential of your PMO's.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: 930-602-021-FX-M100

if you have a good distributor, why would you want new?

If he has 200k miles on it, the bushings will be bad... needs a recurve and rebuild at that mileage. $400-$600. Still less than half a new/recurve.

Yeah you don't want a new one! Or for a few hundred bucks you could convert to a distributorless system, like a ford (wasted spark) uses. Several advantages to going digital (looks cool also).

Another option is to use the MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2 unit. With a PC you can make your own curve. Works like a charm.

Sigurd,

Have you done this? Any modifications to the stock distributor? Does it account for the mechanical advance?

Shane

Never mind :

MSD is bringing their pro stock ignition technology to the street with their new Programmable 6AL-2! Since every NHRA Pro Stock car uses a Programmable Digital-7 Ignition Control, it was only a matter of time until MSD brought that technology to the street – and the time is now!


The new ignition, Part Number 6530, is based on the same output as the 6AL-2, but rather than rotary dials for rpm adjustments it sports a serial port that connects to a PC. Once you load MSD’s Windows based software on your PC, you’re ready to start mapping and programming. To start, you can get rid of the weights and springs that control the mechanical advance of your distributor. Go ahead and lock it out because you can now create a timing curve that allows you to manipulate the timing down to tenth of a degree increments every 100 rpm. The advantage is precise timing control, with the ability to ramp the timing in or retard it at exactly the rpm that you want it to move. Want more timing out for a start retard? Simply click the mouse and move a couple dots in position. Like a high speed retard? Clickity-click!


Another great feature is for the forced induction fans. The ignition features a timing curve based on boost so you can map out a timing curve based on boost pressure. The feature that most street guys will dig is the ability to pull timing out during the holeshot – and ramp it back in. Since many cars have more power than traction capabilities, being able to soften the power at the holeshot can help reduce the tire shredding off the line.


There are also three different rpm limits that can be set in 100-rpm increments; one for the burnout, one for the holeshot and of course a top end limit for overrev protection. If you have a nitrous shot you like to blast off now and then, the ignition has an activation wire that you tie into the nitrous wiring. When the nitrous is activate, the timing can be retarded instantly!

LOL love it when a little reaserch works out. The MSD is a neat unit, just lock down the distributor and let the unit control retard/advance, neat (and you can set your burnout advance)!!

What do you mean by "lock down"?

Don't you still need a good working order distributor?

I've looked at the installation diagrams, which one do you think applies to our cars?

Link:
http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedFiles/MSDIgnitioncom/Products/Ignitions/6421_instructions%281%29.pdf

I think the 2.7 distributors have OEM vacuum retard?

kach22i:

This is the unit I am referring to:

MSD Digital Programmable 6AL-2 - 6530

Ill defer to others like Gunter who are expert.

What I do know is that when my 83 was rebuilt and recurved, i have 35 degrees in the distributor. yes. its all advance. this was the recommendation of Barry at IAE and Richard at PMO.

I also understand there to be bushings inside that wear out.

I cant speak to a 2.7.

Thanks
Brad

it's a crazy retard when set to factory specs

for me when I ran CIS was to plug the vacuum line and run mechanical and set max to 35. Initial should drop down to about 5 BTDC

I replaced with a new, and cheap, 2.7 RS dizzy. I set it to 10 BTDC initial for a 35 total. 10 initial made a difference on carbs starting and off idle besides overall performance

distributor lube... - Pelican Parts Technical BBS