2.7 is out. time to get busy.

drola · 04-07-2010, 11:09 AM

got the motor out of my 76. i had to go buy a parts cleaner and engine stand (again).
before i dropped it i was afraid of a pulled head stud or two since i had some exhaust leaks that sounded suspicious. i removed the valve covers and sure enough all was good. phew. turns out i have a crack in the test pipe and a missing donut gasket on the crossover pipe.
some info on the car. has 210k miles. total rebuild at 117k in 1990. has all upgrades including tensioners. i have invoices going back to 1989. even though the high miles the motor is actually very tight and strong. has new clutch, valves done not too long before i bought it and has pretty much been kept up with until it sat for a couple years before i got it. so with the miles i was expecting to find the motor in rougher shape than it actually is. the only issue is that the valve seals seep a little so it smokes on start up if it has been sitting for a week or more which is not a big deal for me. driving it daily or every couple of days there is no smoke.
but man is it crusty! i am going to replace the usual seals, gaskets, hoses, and overhaul the cis. i will save further engine work till it actually needs it.
so with the help of our host and all the great people here this should go smoothly. but even still i knew it wouldn't be long before i hit my first snag.
the motor has the 2 transmission mating studs on the right side. do i leave them in place and use spacers to mount the stand adapter? or do i back out the studs and bolt the adapter directly to the case?
when i did my 964 3.6 i believe i bolted the adapter to the case but that was a few years ago so i could be wrong about that.

drola · 04-07-2010, 11:18 AM

should i remove the clutch disk? i do plan on spraying the motor down, maybe even pressure cleaning it.

Tom '74 911 · 04-07-2010, 11:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drola

the motor has the 2 transmission mating studs on the right side. do i leave them in place and use spacers to mount the stand adapter? or do i back out the studs and bolt the adapter directly to the case?

Use the existing studs w/spacers. I cut some short sections of pipe to fit.

Tom

Tom '74 911 · 04-07-2010, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by drola

should i remove the clutch disk? i do plan on spraying the motor down, maybe even pressure cleaning it.

Do you plan to replace it? Regardless, it may be nice to have a look at the seal on the end of the crank there and maybe replace it as part of the usual seals etc....

peon77 · 04-07-2010, 12:32 PM

I backed mine out without thinking about it. I didnt have any issues but I wouldnt do it again. You know, stupid magnesium.

j_mancini · 04-07-2010, 04:00 PM

I just went thru this. Had a bad throwout bearing, so pulled the clutch. Glad I did as the clutch disk was within 0.1mm of wear limit! Flywheel didn't look too bad but I decided to have it resurfaced. Glad I did 'cause that rear crank seal was leaking like a sieve! Might as well check while its sitting there, so easy to access. At best you'll need to buy a set of flywheel bolts.

drola · 04-07-2010, 04:10 PM

the clutch was done about 10k miles ago and it works perfectly fine so i don't see any reason to mess with it. there doesn't seem to be any oil coming from the flywheel seal. i read on one of these threads that if the disk gets wet it will stick to the flywheel which is why i asked the question.

drola · 04-11-2010, 09:06 PM

finally got the motor on the stand. it is really crusty. the pulley seal was my gusher, but it seems like every usual place is leaking. i pulled the flywheel off and it doesn't look like the rms was leaking. one of the flywheel bolts did have fresh oil on it though.
what's the acceptable thickness of the clutch disk. might as well check it since it's out.