HELP Transmission instlalation

[kent olsen]

This looked pretty straight forward except?

This is a 3.0L flywheel, a 2.7L pressure plate with throwout bearing and a 915 transmission.

I hoisted up the transmission with my engine hoist and a floor jack. Moved it slowly up to the engine until the input shaft started to go into the clutch. I reached through the starter hole and slid the clutch fork over the throwout bearing and slide the transmission right in.

Well that seemed easy! Except when I started to tighten up the four bell housing nuts something didn't seem right. They started to get very hard to tighten and then with still about 1/8" to go it looked like (through the started hole) the bell housing was right up against the pressure plate.

The shop book I have isn't very discriptive on this procedure so I'm coming to the experts.


HELP

Kent

[kent olsen]

This is also the same transmission and aluminum pressure plate that I had in my 2.7L. The only difference is it's now mounting to a 3.0L engine. Is there any difference between the back of a 2.7L and 3.0L engine?

[yelcab1]

More information please.

Did it fit before?
Why did you take it out?
Why a 2.7L pressure plate instead of the 3L pressure plate?

[kent olsen]

I built a 3.0L engine for the car and since the pressure plate was aluminum and in good shape I just replace the disc. After 70,000+ miles the old disc was still in good shape, I'm not very hard on clutches.

It's almost like there is a piece missing between the back of the engine and the bell housing. My 2.7L engine is long gone so I have nothing to compare it to on a Sunday afternoon.

[yelcab1]

The limiting factors are:

Crank shaft with its pilot bearing
Flywheel and ring gear
Clutch disc
Pressure plate with its TO bearing
Input shaft on the 915

What did you change and what is missing?

I am familiar with the SC and Carrera but not the 2.7L magnesium engine.

[kent olsen]

That's what is confusing, the only thing that is different is the engine. It's an 81 engine so what is different? Don't they both, the 74 2.7L and 81 3.0L, use the 915 transmission?

I pulled the transmission back out and I can't see anything wrong, except if I measure the clearance in the bell housing it's awfully close.

I did see something in my manual that said something about (during the removal) tightening up on 3 rivets that reduce the pressure on the pressure plate prior to removing the transmission, which I didn't do when I pulled the transmission out of the old engine. It doesn't look like you need to do that to reinstall, maybe?

Kent

[Eagledriver]

There shouldn't be a problem. I have a 3.0 mated to a 1972 tranny. Are you sure the clutch fork is positioned correctly in the throw out bearing? I don't see how you could reach in there when it's close enough to engage the throwout bearing. I position the tranny and slide the input shaft in until the fork is abeam the throwout bearing and then rotate the fork shaft to start the fork engaging. Then slide the engine the rest of the way in. There is no difference in clutches between 1986 and 1972.

-Andy

[Flat6pac]

You have the fingers behind the throwout bearing and not in the proper slot. You might have streched the fingers. the measurement across the opening of the fingers is 75mm, anything else like 80 and your bent or broke.
Bruce

[yelcab1]

Originally Posted by kent olsen

I did see something in my manual that said something about (during the removal) tightening up on 3 rivets that reduce the pressure on the pressure plate prior to removing the transmission, which I didn't do when I pulled the transmission out of the old engine. It doesn't look like you need to do that to reinstall, maybe?

Kent

No, the Haynes manual sucks on this description. it is for a earlier type of clutch before the clutch on your 915. The type of pressure plate and clutch on the 915 you have just disengages when you separate the engine and gear box.

[john walker's workshop]

did you use a pilot while the pressure plate was being tightened up? nothing you have should be a problem. if you don't get the splines dead centered with the alignment pilot, you get some binding and difficulty inserting the trans mainshaft through the disc's splines.

[kent olsen]

Thanks guys.

Yes I used the pilot when I torqued the pressure plate onto the flywheel. When I pulled the pilot out the disc just floats around between the pressure plate and the flywheel, strange. I thought that was because this is a pull type pressure plate, No?

I'll check the clutch fork again but it just seemed like the bell housing was butting up against the pressure plate looking through the starter hole with about a 1/4" left to completetly tighten it all up?

[john walker's workshop]

[QUOTE=kent olsen;5303347]Thanks guys.

Yes I used the pilot when I torqued the pressure plate onto the flywheel. When I pulled the pilot out the disc just floats around between the pressure plate and the flywheel, strange. I thought that was because this is a pull type pressure plate, No?
QUOTE]

there's a problem there. the disc should be clamped tight after tightening the pressure plate bolts. is it a Sachs pressure plate or some other aftermarket one? i've seen a few non-sachs plates come with clips that held the pressure late off the disc until they were pulled out.

[kent olsen]

Well the problem was pretty obvious after I looked at a few pictures.'

I've had these engine parts spread about in boxes and cabinets for some time. Apparently the ring gear and pressure plate were separated at some point. When I pulled them out of the box and put it together I layed the ring gear on the wrong side of the pressure plate.

Once I replaced the ring gear on the proper side of the clutch it all went together as it should.

Next is reinstalling it all in the car.

Thanks for all the help troubleshooting.

Kent