need pix of where bump steer spacers go...please
 

title says it all...I am working on a 76' 912 and the steering rack is bolted to the alum cross bar by the BOTTOM of the steering rack...I thought the bump steer spacers were inserted btwen the TOP of the steering rack and the body, right??
I am confused & the kit came with no instructions...probably because this wont work on this car or I have been exposed to too much brake clean...
Thx everyone & pics would be great where these go & if I can use them on this car...

Also, where do the turbo tie rod "spacers" go...could not figure that one out last nite @ 2 AM also...

Bob

You should have received longer bolts with the kit. The spacers go between the rack and the crossmember. You need to loosen the steering linkage in the smuggler's box so that the shaft can move freely while you install the spacers.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/190648-how-long-install-turbo-tie-rods.html

thx Wayne...I was leaning that way...but...wont that RAISE the steering rack when I want to be lowering it, right...??
What prompted this was the tie rods were stk & toast on the tub...so I replaced them last nite...also part of the plan is to lower the car to euro height, so I thought a good time for the bump steer...my thinking which may be "cloudy" was that the bump steer kit (spacers0 was mostly if not totally for when you lowered the car, NOT because you installed turbo tie rods...am I thinking clearly??
Thx for your early Sat AM help...
Bob

The bump steer spacers correct the tie rod geometry when you lower the car. You may not even need them at the height you arrive at.

I installed them as my car is below "euro" height and I was getting bump steer.

I would suggest that you hold off on them until you try the car out. Get it aligned and corner balanced and THEN decide.

Of course, if you have already taken the rack apart it would be better to do it now.



Do you have "101 Projects for your 911"? If not, you should get it. Wayne(the other one:)) really went to great lengths to detail upgrades like this.

Found this thread which explains bump steer.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/516529-homemade-bump-steer-kit.html

thx again Wayne...I do/did have the 101 project book from Wanye but I can not find it...arggggggggg
Thx for setting me straight on the location for the spacers...just seems weird...I will wait till it is dropped & aligned to possible add if needed.

On the turbo tie rods...are the fat washers to be used inbetween the end of the rod & where it threads into the rack...?? If so, the length I needed the complete tie rod to be to match what I removed would lenghten the new ttrod too much, thus if they go there I could nopt use them.

Thx for confirming all of my late hr work last nite was not a waste... :-)

Bob

bump steer kit
 

Here are the instructions that come with the bump steer kit from Weltmeister,
hope this helps !

Cheers :)
Phil




http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271517791.jpg

thx wildcat...do I understand #4 saying to "large tube running accross the car" to be the alum cross bar??
Thx again everyone...
Bob

Hi Bob,

Haven't installed mine yet as i'm waiting for my ER front arm bushings from Pelican before i lower the car to it's final height.
I would imagine they refer to #4 as the cross bar !

Cheers !
Phil

Tweaks, I just did a bump stear kit and turbo tie rods last week - good luck....yes, #4 is the crossmember.

Thx Ruby...notice any improvement with these 2 mods done...?? Did you also lower a/o do other suspension goodies while you were in there...??
Thx again!!
Bob

Bob,

As I recall on the fat washers with the tie rod kit: You may not need them. They are supplied because on some year cars the threaded tie rod will bottom out in the rack and cannot be tightened. The spacer is supplied to allow the rod to be fully tightened into the rack. If you can thread the rod into the rack and tighten it securely, you won't need the spacers.

cool......thx L.J. as I used blue loc tite putting them in & was thinking...what if I screwed up some how...phewwwwwwwwwwwwwww glad I made it...
Bob :-)

Hey Tweaks - no other add-on mods that day, but did remove/re-index rear torsion bars and lowered the car all around. The tie rods really tightened up the stearing response - really enhanced the point and shoot feel of the car at speed. I was really surprised how small steering wheel movements resulted in directional changes of the car - I love them. I did notice stearing feel oh so slightly heavier at parking lot speeds - but really no trouble at all.

When you lower the car, you are effectively raising the wheels. Since you are raising the wheels you need to raise the rack as well. This keeps it closer to the level of the steering arms.

-Andy

In this pic of the cross member, looking down from the top, you can see the two bolt holes on top of the cross member towards the center.... A spacer goes on top of those holes...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271643954.jpg

It's a little hard to take a pic with everything together, but here is the spacer on the passenger's side of the cross member. It rests between the body and the cross member. The red thing is the skid plate...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271644049.jpg

JB

can i ask what are you guys doing at the tie rod end to correct bump steer, i hope you dont think that just putting a couple shims under the rack is all thats needed, Kevin

I'm NO suspension guru, but I think that IS what we think.... all we're trying to do is correct (not perfectly, but for certainly enough for anyone on this board) the change in geometry caused by lowering the car.

JB

duplicate deleted.... how does that happen?

i would have the bump set after installing the shims, it will get rid of any un wanted darty feeling, Kevin

The WM instructions neglect to mention loosening and resetting the steering shaft U-joint on it's splines to reduce any tension between the rack and the steering shaft. Raising the static location of the crossmember and thus steering rack will put this joint under stress. In addition, not loosening the u-joint may make it difficult to move the crossmember and install the rack spacers.

FWIW, there is no "bump" adjustment per say built into the suspension other than to reset the ride height to factory specs. Aftermarket solutions include the aforementioned rack spacers or by adding modified tie rod ends.

Sherwood