Successful SSI instal, first spin drama

[ARCSinAK]

Howzit from Kauai-

Well after looking a my SSI / OEM Dansk 2 in one out for 10 day on my shop table, I pulled the trigger this afternoon with the help of my long time friend John Sargent, a highly skilled marine mechanic and all around classic gentleman. 1980 SC backdate was on.
Our first challenge was the toughest, the bottom oil line on the thermostat. 10 mins of careful acetylene torch heating/kroil, and with steady pressure she finally broke loose. Only lost one quart of oil during the oil line procedure. We were fortunate with the bolts and allen nuts on the exhaust manifold, no breakage, one stud pulled out. Decided to cut the O2 sensor wire due to the length problem, and accidentally broke the ancient O2 sensor when the HE fell over on the concrete. It would have be a miracle if it was still transmitted info. Used the broken sensor to plug the new SSI o2 port. SSI went on smooth, used new fasteners, gaskets and copper anti seize.

I have question about the muffler mounting and alinement with the new SSI pipes. When we mocked it up there was about a 1/2 different between the level of the header flanges and the muffler flanges if the center muffler flange was resting on the lip where the straps encircle. Hope that makes sense, but I could slide the muffler up in there and rest it on the lip with the flange and not have to strap it in during fittment but the holes were off about 1/2 inch. We decided to aline the muffler with the SSI flages instead of pushing up on the HE's and forcing the the muffler flange to rest on the lip of the engine shroud. Getting the strap around the muffler to re-attach was a bit of a misson, four hands and twenty minuts later was had the muffler tight and secured to the SSi with new 10mm stainless bolts. Add a quart of oil and fired her up. Heard Sweet music after 3 hours of wrenching.

Time for the test run, was late to pick up my 13 y/o. What I noticed the most was a general smoothness in regard to the way the motor accented through the power band. Defiantly more clean power, faster thottle response. I was stoked and all I wanted to do was get her warm and go for a solo drive.

Now the drama, I had noticed that the alternator bearing was sounding increasing ruff for a couple of months, and had purchased a rebuild back up but never had time to install it. Luckily the meltdown occurred about 1/2 mile from my house on the way home. 4 of the ball bearings detonated in the alternator race, pushing the fan into the housing and stopping/melting the belt, big smoke in the cabin, red light on the dash, general chaos. Didn't know if I had blown a oli line had a fire ect. Upon investigation I found multiple bearing shrapnel fragments in the alternator and a broken belt. Drove her home in a James Bond style smoke screen. Went to work removing the alternator and have a few questions. See photo. Is it possible to remove the alternator without removing the engine cowling? I almost could pull it out but seems like the harness is too tight and rear fins too long and are in the way. Did not want to have to go tearing into the air box manifold wires ect at 10 pm. Will search the form for alternator install clinics but just wanted to ask. Thanks for your time and knowledge.

Jed

[VFR750]

Yes you can remove the altenator. See that narrow gap in your picture. Unfortunately that is were your hands go to unscrew the inner shroud and electrical connections from the back of the altenator. It's slow going. And easy to lose the nuts and washers.

And remember to disconnect the battery first, as there is a hot lead to the altenator. It makes sparks when the wrench become a ground.....

[john walker's workshop]

put the lower lip of the housing on the engine side of the crank pulley, then you can angle the housing out more.

[tevake]

Hey Jed, glad to hear the SSI install worked out well! John was a good choice to help out.
Funny about the alt aftermath, nice you have a spare on hand.
Funny in that it all ways seems that after one repair or even tune up something else will show up right away.
Right after my resent tune up, plugs, wires, valve adjst, new air intake boot, etc.
Two days later something happened and now the engine is running like s--t, missing, backfiring like crazy on throttle off, surging at idle. I'm thinking vacuum leak. but have yet to find it.
Any way let me know if you need a hand with the alt change out.
Cheers Richard

[Gunter]

Originally Posted by VFR750

Yes you can remove the altenator. See that narrow gap in your picture. Unfortunately that is were your hands go to unscrew the inner shroud and electrical connections from the back of the altenator. It's slow going. And easy to lose the nuts and washers.

And remember to disconnect the battery first, as there is a hot lead to the altenator. It makes sparks when the wrench become a ground.....

+1

Be patient and mark the position and wires.
Give yourself a little more room re: John's suggestion.
The air deflector is carefully disconnected and later inspected for cracks.
Mark the wires!

Are you saying that you drove the car without the fan cooling the cylinders?

[ARCSinAK]

Gunter-

I drove for about 1/4 to my garage after the belt melted. The fan bldes are intact, just rubbed the cast hosing a bit.
The SSI are very nice addition. What are your thoughts on the importance of the O2 sensor, don't believe the old one was functioning, should I install a new one in the SSI's with a longer wire.

Also, only the drivers rear stock HE duck was connected on the fatory set up the PO removed the cat. Would there be a reason for connecting one of the four ducks. Defrost? I dont really need heat in Hawaii and like the clean look of the engine room with out the heat hose. The PO spent big dough on upgrading the AC system but I dont think he went deep into the hoses there it needs a recharge, last night I removed the belt on the AC, is there a need to run that belt if I don't re-charge the system???He said if I recharge the AC I would get about six months, but I wanted to experience the SSI with out and increased drag for a while.

[Gunter]

True you don't need defrost but you want the exhaust ports cooled by connecting both HE's on each end.
You don't need the extra heater fan on top of the engine but I highly recommend getting the right duct connectors coming off the left and right side of the big cooling fan.

These are the duct connectors from '74 and prior. Some people just block one side without using that side but I don't like it at all, especially for warmer climates.

As I understand it, you want a functioning OX sensor to run the Lambda system correctly.
Read some of the posts by psalt on this issue; he really knows CIS.
For a decent performance curve you want all components of the Lambda to function.
The only thing you can do is disconnect and plug the vac retard line on the distributor.

If you don't want Lambda, you have to exchange the whole CIS to the '78-'79 version and find an ignition distributor for these years.

No need to have the belt if you don't use the A/C.
The A/C compressor and parts weigh a lot. I got rid of all the components.