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Ball Joint Torque

I am restoring a 1980 SC and am working on the suspension.
Anyone know a good method for torqueing the castle nut on the ball joint?
I used a floor jack to maintain pressure to remove the castle nuts. Is this the same method used to tighten?
If anyone has a good proven method I would really like to hear about it.

Old 04-24-2010, 09:42 AM
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They make a tool for installation. Its ridiculously expensive. but it works. It is for installation only. Out host sells it...
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:09 PM
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Yes, using a jack is a good method. As Brad points out, you do need the proper tool.
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Scott Wilburn
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:13 PM
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The tool suxs. Just tighten the snot out of it with a pipe wrench. As the old adage goes, "tighten until it strips, then back off 1/4 turn."
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:23 PM
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Porsche tool P-280 b is quite pricey, and the torque is 184 ft-lbs. Try taking the new ball joint nut down to a parts store and match it up with a 4x4 front hub retainer nut tool. A lot cheaper for something your only going to use once or twice in a lifetime.
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:25 PM
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A P280B is about $60. If you are going down the Interstate at 80 and the ball joint comes loose, would you pay $60 to have G_d come down and put the ball joint back together? I sure would.
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Old 04-24-2010, 03:35 PM
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Thanks or the feedback - I made a spanner tool that works reasonably well (at least during the loosening phase).
Maybe I wasn't specific enopugh about the problem I am encountering - when I try to apply torque to tighten the castle nut the ball joint assembly spins. Any technique to stop the ball joint from spinning while torque is applied?
Thanks in advance.
Old 04-25-2010, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpitman9 View Post
Thanks or the feedback - I made a spanner tool that works reasonably well (at least during the loosening phase).
Maybe I wasn't specific enopugh about the problem I am encountering - when I try to apply torque to tighten the castle nut the ball joint assembly spins. Any technique to stop the ball joint from spinning while torque is applied?
Thanks in advance.
If my memory serves me correctly there is a small notch in the A-arm and the ball joint has a tit that slips into the notch to keep the unit from turning. When you get ready to install the tie rod it may also spin if so take a piece of wood and a hammer tap bottom of tie rod this will drive the taper up causing friction allowing you to tighten it's castle nut.
Old 04-25-2010, 08:39 AM
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I'm in the middle of this job right now. At least on Carreras, there is a tab on the control arm (toward middle of car) and a notch on the ball joint. you need to get these lined up so it will not spin. I highly recommend using the proper tool. Using a jack to apply pressure to the wrench makes it easy. I just did the left side 15 minutes ago with no problems. The pipe wrench and hammer (and sometimes heat) works great for removal, but you want to get it torqued right when installing. Time to do the right side.
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1998 M3
1984 308 QV
Old 04-25-2010, 09:06 AM
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One more thing. If you let the tool slip, it will round the corners and make things much harder. That's why you use the jack to hold it in place, and don't use the tool for removal.
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Scott Wilburn
1988 911 Carrera 3.4 L
1998 M3
1984 308 QV
Old 04-25-2010, 09:08 AM
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Guys
Thanks very much for input.
Will try suggestions tomorrow am.
Old 04-25-2010, 04:23 PM
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Guys - thanks for all the useful input.
The homemade spanner coupled with a floor jack and getting the tab in the slot before applying full torque worked well. One suggestion that worked for me - I put a small
1" x 2" piece of wood (1" in the vertical) under the front jack wheels - this allowed the spanner and wrench to align almost perfectly with the angle of the castle nut.
Thanks again.

Old 05-05-2010, 08:12 AM
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