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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monmouth county, NJ
Posts: 257
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distributor removal question
I have a leak at my left cam oil line running behind the distributor and need to get in there to tighten the compression fitting or possibly replace the line.
Can you please tell me how to remove the distributor. I see one mounting screw, can I just unscrew this and pull the distributor out (I've already taken the cap off, rotor is still on). Thanks 86 911 3.2 |
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Yes , you've just to do that to remove it.
When your leak issue will be solved : The crankshaft pulley has a mark of Z1 that you must align with the mark on the fan housing. The distributor must pointing to the small notch in the distributor housing , at 3 hours on the right , first cylinder. Hoping i'm understandable...........
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LIGHTER = FASTER !!! Last edited by cdrik915; 10-18-2009 at 06:37 AM.. |
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Capistrano Beach, Ca.
Posts: 7,235
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Quote:
Be absolutely sure your engine is at TDC for #1 cylinder (Z1) and the rotor is pointing to the notch on the distributor body. Some cars do not have the Z1 marked on the pulley so double check the rotor is pointing to the notch. If you're not sure, post another question.
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L.J. Recovering Porsche-holic Gave up trying to stay clean Stabilized on a Pelican I.V. drip |
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Also helpfull to scribe around the base of the dizzy so that you get the timing back to where it was.
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Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
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Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Black Mountain, NC
Posts: 710
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The key here if you are not experienced with this is to do all above PRIOR to pulling it!!
Is a piece of cake very simple after doing above, on re inerting the dist notice the gear is on a angled pattern, when you insert it the rotor will move from where you started, if not where you wanted pull it up a bit turn it gorward or back a bit and try it again. Nothing to fret over. Regards |
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monmouth county, NJ
Posts: 257
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Thanks to all, everything is fine. First time for me putting motor at TDC and my car is not marked Z1. Turning the engine also wasn't very easy, had to push down on the fan belt to get it to move. Finally got distributor to the right mark and then marked Z1 on fan pully with a sharpie so next time I know.
Distributor came right out and as mentioned above the rotor had moved off the mark so I slightly rotated it back and the dizzy fell right in Leak is fixed, compression nut was very loose, surprised more oil wasn't leaking. Car started right up and drove fine. Thanks again for the help, great Board!!!! |
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3.4 Bigger is better
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: South Dakota
Posts: 1,497
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+1 on getting everything set to TDC before you pull the distributor. Also watch how the rotor turns slightly when you remove it, then get the same movement putting it back in. No need to scribe the distributor. With the 3.2 the distributor is bolted in one spot and cannot be turned and the timing is controlled by the computer. Had the same problem on my 88
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Michael 88 911 Diamond Blue CE Carrera 3.4 HC3.4 member 2020 Honda Passport |
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: So. Calif.
Posts: 19,910
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FWIW, if all you need to do is R&R the distributor to access the cam oil line, the rotor doesn't have to be in any particular location. When removing the dist., note the orientation of the rotor. Don't rotate the engine while the dist., is out, then reinstall so the rotor is in the same orientation.
Sherwood |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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I have the same prob (leaking oil line on the left side). Is there no way to remove and replace the line without removing the distributor? I have an 81 SC.
Thanks |
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Its worth just pulling the distributor. Note the location of the rotor. dont turn over engine, and rinstall with rotor in same place. set timing. this whole process will take less than 15 minutes. not worth trying to fix that oil line with the distributor in the car...
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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Senior Advisor
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Yes just mark where the rotor points now and yank it out. put it bact the same place and every thing will be fine.
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08 Cayenne Turbo |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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Thanks guys. The PO spent alot of money on repairs on the engine including a new distributor. Why the heck would he not replace a 30yr old oil line for an additional $30?!
I was hoping to get away without removing the distr. Never used a timing light; don't have one; don't know anyone who has one. |
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Where you located?
Quote:
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 28
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Brad - I am in Southern Calif.
Found out one of my son's friends works in a shop that restores 912s mostly. So, he is my new friend. |
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Great. Glad you found someone. There are alot of pelicans over there... this group is always willing to lend a hand or a tool.
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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling. |
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