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redranger's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Monmouth county, NJ
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distributor removal question

I have a leak at my left cam oil line running behind the distributor and need to get in there to tighten the compression fitting or possibly replace the line.

Can you please tell me how to remove the distributor. I see one mounting screw, can I just unscrew this and pull the distributor out (I've already taken the cap off, rotor is still on).

Thanks

86 911 3.2

Old 10-18-2009, 06:17 AM
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Yes , you've just to do that to remove it.

When your leak issue will be solved :

The crankshaft pulley has a mark of Z1 that you must align with the mark on the fan housing.

The distributor must pointing to the small notch in the distributor housing , at 3 hours on the right , first cylinder.

Hoping i'm understandable...........
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Last edited by cdrik915; 10-18-2009 at 06:37 AM..
Old 10-18-2009, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdrik915 View Post
Yes , you've just to do that to remove it.

When your leak issue will be solved :

The crankshaft pulley has a mark of Z1 that you must align with the mark on the fan housing.

The distributor must pointing to the small notch in the distributor housing , at 3 hours on the right , first cylinder.

Hoping i'm understandable...........
+1!!!

Be absolutely sure your engine is at TDC for #1 cylinder (Z1) and the rotor is pointing to the notch on the distributor body. Some cars do not have the Z1 marked on the pulley so double check the rotor is pointing to the notch. If you're not sure, post another question.
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Old 10-18-2009, 07:37 AM
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Also helpfull to scribe around the base of the dizzy so that you get the timing back to where it was.
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Old 10-18-2009, 07:59 AM
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The key here if you are not experienced with this is to do all above PRIOR to pulling it!!
Is a piece of cake very simple after doing above, on re inerting the dist notice the gear is on a angled pattern, when you insert it the rotor will move from where you started, if not where you wanted pull it up a bit turn it gorward or back a bit and try it again.
Nothing to fret over.

Regards
Old 10-18-2009, 08:17 AM
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Thanks to all, everything is fine. First time for me putting motor at TDC and my car is not marked Z1. Turning the engine also wasn't very easy, had to push down on the fan belt to get it to move. Finally got distributor to the right mark and then marked Z1 on fan pully with a sharpie so next time I know.

Distributor came right out and as mentioned above the rotor had moved off the mark so I slightly rotated it back and the dizzy fell right in

Leak is fixed, compression nut was very loose, surprised more oil wasn't leaking.

Car started right up and drove fine.

Thanks again for the help, great Board!!!!
Old 10-18-2009, 08:22 AM
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+1 on getting everything set to TDC before you pull the distributor. Also watch how the rotor turns slightly when you remove it, then get the same movement putting it back in. No need to scribe the distributor. With the 3.2 the distributor is bolted in one spot and cannot be turned and the timing is controlled by the computer. Had the same problem on my 88
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Old 10-18-2009, 08:26 AM
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FWIW, if all you need to do is R&R the distributor to access the cam oil line, the rotor doesn't have to be in any particular location. When removing the dist., note the orientation of the rotor. Don't rotate the engine while the dist., is out, then reinstall so the rotor is in the same orientation.

Sherwood
Old 10-18-2009, 03:58 PM
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I have the same prob (leaking oil line on the left side). Is there no way to remove and replace the line without removing the distributor? I have an 81 SC.

Thanks
Old 05-21-2010, 06:14 PM
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Its worth just pulling the distributor. Note the location of the rotor. dont turn over engine, and rinstall with rotor in same place. set timing. this whole process will take less than 15 minutes. not worth trying to fix that oil line with the distributor in the car...

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Originally Posted by cmetzner View Post
I have the same prob (leaking oil line on the left side). Is there no way to remove and replace the line without removing the distributor? I have an 81 SC.

Thanks
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Old 05-21-2010, 06:28 PM
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Yes just mark where the rotor points now and yank it out. put it bact the same place and every thing will be fine.
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Old 05-21-2010, 08:36 PM
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Thanks guys. The PO spent alot of money on repairs on the engine including a new distributor. Why the heck would he not replace a 30yr old oil line for an additional $30?!

I was hoping to get away without removing the distr. Never used a timing light; don't have one; don't know anyone who has one.
Old 05-22-2010, 05:26 AM
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Where you located?

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmetzner View Post
Thanks guys. The PO spent alot of money on repairs on the engine including a new distributor. Why the heck would he not replace a 30yr old oil line for an additional $30?!

I was hoping to get away without removing the distr. Never used a timing light; don't have one; don't know anyone who has one.
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Old 05-22-2010, 06:06 AM
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Brad - I am in Southern Calif.

Found out one of my son's friends works in a shop that restores 912s mostly. So, he is my new friend.
Old 05-23-2010, 05:12 PM
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Great. Glad you found someone. There are alot of pelicans over there... this group is always willing to lend a hand or a tool.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cmetzner View Post
Brad - I am in Southern Calif.

Found out one of my son's friends works in a shop that restores 912s mostly. So, he is my new friend.

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83 SC Targa -- 3.2SS, GT2-108 Dougherty Cams, 9.5:1 JE Pistons, Supertec Studs, PMO ITB's, MS2 EFI, SSI's, Recurved Dizzy, MSD, Backdated Dansk Sport Stainless 2 in 1 out, Elephant Polybronze, Turbo Tie Rods, Bilstein HD's, Hollow 21-27 TBs, Optima Redtop 34R, Griffiths-ZIMS AC, Seine Shifter, Elephant Racing Oil Cooling.
Old 05-23-2010, 05:22 PM
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