Parking brake ratchet mechanism lost

[Fleetwood]

My second attempt to get the constant brake warning light to go out has been frustrated by issues getting things reassembled properly. The normal click, click of the ratchet while pulling up the handle has disappeared. The button at the end of the handle actuates the latch and I can watch the latch and gear mesh but something is not going together correctly

The process of handle removal/reassembly has its challenges and after 3 tries threading the pivot bolt through the handle, heater controls, washers etc I'm ready to ask questions here and understand where I'm going wrong. The gear driven flat plate (with the big hole in it) that fits in the bottom of the handle and meshes with the release button on the end of the handle is key to this action (I think?) and possibly my assembly sequence is off? I keep thinking there's a spring that fell off but nothing on the parts diagram or in the void below.

Any guidance or assistance appreciated. Thanks ahead

[EC900]

See if this link helps with reassembly, also check the PET catalog too.

Fixing parking brake warning light switch

Here is a page from PET catalog for reference

[Fleetwood]

Thanks very much EC900. That's the link I've been using as a guide and it has been very helpful.

The parts diagram you sent is also expanded compared to the simplified, non-numbered, mostly above carpet diagram also found here.

To further describe my issue: the brake handle will not click, click, ratchet in the up mode but does require you to push the button on the end of the handle to get it to release down. Guess I could use it this way but it's not making me happy

I'll give it a couple more go's today and see what happens. Possibly I need to get the ratchet gears and tensions just right to get everything working together??

Thanks again EC900. I'd like to being this to a conclusion as some recent sunny days have me thinking driving rather than wrenching

[EC900]

Yes, the thing that comes to mind is when resembling is to get the ratchet cam aligned or set into a starting point, like on a tooth or two so that the mechanism/rod/spring all have something or somewhere to “bite” and lock onto right off the bat. Probably another trial & error project so aligning that ratchet cam (#15) just right might be the trick. As in the diagram, should the ratchet cam be as pictured or raised a tooth or two upward. The fact yours is not clicking yet it holds the brake is a mystery, maybe a cable issue too ??? Are rear brakes binding now? The audible click is what ensures the brake is held as far as I know.
FWIW my handle has about three or four clicks to set the brake (which would turn the Brake light On) with only raising it about 4”. I think when I took mine off (long ago, but didn’t disassemble) one side of the cable balance tensioner (#37) was awkwardly aligned in tunnel and had put too much pressure on the handle, don’t recall if that affect the ratcheting.

[eastbay]

No doubt parking brake mechanism work belongs in the "What make you hate Pcar engineers" thread. Keep at it, you'll get it.

[Fleetwood]

Evidently there was a re-assembly issue and probably in the sequence of re-assembly as the complete hand brake would not mount far enough down on the chassis center hump.

One of the supporting posts suggested lifting the complete hand brake up a few inches with some wood blocks. This extra space gave me a better view of the action and the idea to remove the rear mounted electrical switch and try putting all back together without the switch. Well, the complete parking brake (minus the switch), now sits lower and the click, click ratchet mechanism returned and works perfectly. Re-installed the switch and everything back to normal

My re-assembly sequence of having the electrical switch in place while putting the parking brake pivot bolt in seems to be the issue. A little difficult getting the switch in position (with pivot bolt installed) but certainly easier than the pivot bolt install thru the brake handle, washers, heater controls etc.

Still don't know if I've solved my constant on brake light issue but at least everything's back together and operationally correct. Thanks to those who've posted details and photos on this subject and helped me get back to normal. Pelican rocks and certainly makes working on these old beauties a more enjoyable process

[EC900]

Good to hear the ratchet function is working again.

One thing about getting that dash Brake/Seatbelt dash lamp to turn off with handle down is sometimes the contact bow needs a tweak, but carefully as it’s easy to break off from bending it repeatedly. There are two things to get the Brake light to turn off with handle down:
1) proper, tedious micro adjustments on the switch with passenger seat out, or…
2) disconnect the wire from the switch

My contact bow broke off = ‘no contact/no light’ (same as disconnecting the wire). Though the parking Brake light won’t illuminate with handle up or down whatsoever, the Brake ‘failure’ or ‘warning’ from master cylinder circuit will still function on the dash at start up and then turn off after a couple seconds as it should.

As stated, the brake fluid pressure switches are connected to that dash circuit too. So check brake fluid level (low), disconnect the sender unit on the master cylinder to see if that light turns off, and/or disconnect the battery cable, this will reset a fluid pressure or sender fault trigger.

In a recent drive, I stopped suddenly nose up on a steeper than expected driveway incline just to avoid dragging my tailpipe and this triggered my dash Brake warning light what I think was due to the fluid level in reservoir was altered. Eventually disconnecting the battery for few minutes and light turned off when connected it back.

[Fleetwood]

Installed newly upholstered seat and went thru winter restart process and the brake light goes out at just the right time. So happy the fix worked. Not exactly sure what the fix was, probably a slight rebend of the connection arm but everything is back to normal. Thanks again to all posters as this subject is well documented