Pelican Parts Forums - Dual jacking my 911...

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- - Dual jacking my 911... (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/547117-dual-jacking-my-911-a.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by JJ 911SC (Post 5396244)

The hose/cylinders made up-here and the "Baldor" motor/pump made in the good old USA.

Up here it end-up cheaper ($1800) than the BendPack with a better warranty (2 year parts/5 years construction).

They also have a US shipping depot.

The Lift Super Store Check under promotion

Could not live without...

If you are contacting them, do mentioned that you heard it from the Porsche Pelican Site, I'm not getting anything but I mentioned to them that I would do a post (search hemi roadrunner) and you might get a break.

For more details (not much more to say, except you get one) PM me.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276122386.jpg

Is the lift at all unstable, some of the one I've seen online are much wider and actually lift between the tires at the outer edge of the car.

Thanks for the info........KC

Quote:

Originally Posted by KCinBR (Post 5396364)

Is the lift at all unstable, some of the one I've seen online are much wider and actually lift between the tires at the outer edge of the car. Thanks for the info........KC

What you don't see it that picture, is that there is 4 arms that can go lateral to lift a wide car. Not a problem with our cars.

Its rate for 6,000 pound, so my 2000 lb is not even a work out.

It can raise to 56". I had it up to the max I could do in my garage. Actually if you look close you will see that my garage door opener is actually in the car.

When I had it up to my max (plenty of room to drop the engine) I give it a good shake from all 4 corners and had no hesitation to go under to start cleaning (took me about an hour to do the driver side heat exchanger).

Of course it has safety stop every 8" (I think), you raise the car above where you want, than release the hydraulic until the stop engage.

For the P cars and other rear end engine, you put the cylinder up-front so you got plenty of room to work in the back.

KC: I think you are hook, PM me I'll give you my number:D:D:D

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Quote:

Originally Posted by CCM911 (Post 5395395)

Have owned my 84 Targa for over ten years. Have lifted using the engine for all jacking up of the rear. Get a hockey puck, and use the engine.

But then again, this is just my opinion.

Actually, I'll quit this method as soon as I see a photo of jack damage on an engine.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271112161.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271112234.jpg[/

Hi JJ 911, nice lift. Glad to find one made in Canada, it is on my wish list but was not about to buy the "made in china" version. I didn't come across these guys when i was searching.....so thanks for the tip.

What did you use on your HE's to get them that clean? Next little project for me while mine is still on jacks.

I'll be in Ottawa next week for a couple lapping days at Calabogie. My Brother ( fellow 911 owner, and Ottawa resident) were possibly taking in a PCA cruise next Saturday Morning June 19th. Do you attend any of their events?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dueller (Post 5396670)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1271112161.jpg
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Didn't the car fall on the jack or jack stand on that one? Which I don't think is quite the same as damage from jacking the engine...

Quote:

Originally Posted by syzygy (Post 5396741)

Didn't the car fall on the jack or jack stand on that one? Which I don't think is quite the same as damage from jacking the engine...

Yeah...IIRC jack failed and engine landed on jack stand. So it kinda was a jack off issue I suppose;)

I must say, I've some issues that may or may not be related to jacking under the engine (also why I don't really feel ok doing it).

The last time I did it, the engine sounded all funky and didn't start right away. It also made only 4 or 500 rpm and then shut down.

Had to start the car 3 times before it ran normally.

I never ever had or have any problems starting the engine, only after jacking it up that way...

Should be available in Newfieland...

Quote:

Originally Posted by NewfieMZ3 (Post 5396688)

Check this thread for the details; http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/545105-best-cleaner.html

PM me the details of your visit (including your brother name, I may already come across him) and I'll try to meet you guys, I'm leaving for Niagara on Thursday so I'll miss the coffee run on Saturday.

Cheers J.J.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276160237.jpg

I stuck 2x4s under the body jack points and lifted that way. Rear t-bars for the rear. About 3-4" at a time. There it remains, undergoing (slow) restoration, about 14" of total lift right now, which is plenty for me to do what I need.

So it looks like the only damage shown thus far was as a result of a car falling onto a jackstand.

We will be waiting forever to see a jack-damaged engine.

You know, you can do what you want with your car. Frankly, I do not care.

That said, I have intellectual heartburn over using the single most expensive component of my car as a lift point when there are alternatives availble.

Grady Clay (whose advice you should ignore only at your own risk) offers the following:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Grady Clay (Post 4963182)

Mark brings up a good point. I didn’t address this because there are so many cars and situations. There are some common issues.

You need to jack and support your car at the strongest points. NEVER EVER jack it on flat sheet metal. There are sheet metal jacking points that are suitable but it requires special precaution and pads.

Best are the suspension and suspension mounting points. The side jack points are suitable if used with the correct tools (jack-pads).

In front the front A-arms are best. Use the cylindrical part that contains the torsion bar and toward the rear. This allows the jack stand saddle a firm location. Supporting on the arm near the ball joint is asking for slipping.

The area of the sheet metal chassis just behind the front wheels is also a possibility. Great care must be exercised here. There are the oil pipes and A/C hoses to contend with. If there is ANY sign of rust, do not use. Best cushion is a piece of soft pine wood, cut to slightly clear the weld rib.

The side jack points are commonly used. Keep in mind, there are close to the fore-aft center of gravity. Lifting here lifts half of the weight of the car at each point. While strong, they are attached to the sheet metal. If there is any rust, consider these for emergency use only.

Mark above has the jack positioned correctly. If you position the jack perpendicular to the side of the car, there is the risk of the jack not rolling during the lift and it will pull the jack point out of the receiver in the car.

It is advisable to have an extra jack and a few stands. If you get the car in an incorrect situation, you can easily recover.

The rear torsion bar tube just inboard of the sheet metal frame is the strongest part of the car. You have to contend with sway bar mounts and the fuel pump (’71-’75) on the left.

The torsion bar- spring plate is the easiest strong support. It is possible for a stand to slip off the end so be careful. There are clearance concerns with the oil pipes and thermostat in the right rear. More so with all ‘72s.

In the rear it is common to jack the car using the steel engine mount at the rear of the engine (don’t dent the muffler) or the transmission mount. Some use the sheet metal at the rear of the tunnel but this can damage the sheet metal (and interfere with shifting) without a proper wood interface.

Lightweight cars seem to tolerate jacking on an aluminum crankcase with a wood interface. Avoid the case split and sump plate. Never jack a car on a magnesium crankcase.

I am not familiar with all the under-pan jacks. I suspect all the same issues apply. I would still use four good jack stands.

Best,
Grady

Here's a couple of pictures as requested. I made it so it can be adjustable but for now it is just used on the 911. The center tube is 28 inches long. 2 X2 square tubing 3/16ths of an inch thick wall. The extension pieces are 1 1/2 X 1 1/2 square tubing 3/16ths inches thick. the overall length is 41 3/8ths inches. I use a 7000 lbs. jack. Nothing fancy, but it works.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276183272.jpg
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Mike what part of the swing arm to you lift against. I'm having a hard time picturing that. Is it the swing arms or the trailing arms?

I like the idea though.

I use a simple 4x4 with one jack right in front where the tranny shaft enters the body using the Porsche structure point.

Hey Todd, sorry for the confusion. It is actually the trailing arms that I am using. I am calling the trailing arms swing arms.

Not sure what year your car is, tim. On my '71 911 I just put the floor jack under the rear engine MOUNT and jack until the rear wheels are off the ground. I can then place the jack stands under the torsions. Takes about 30 seconds.
I've seen experienced Porsche mechanics routinely jack up 911s by the engine. :eek:
Keep in mind that up until '77 911 motors were made of MAGNESIUM. I would never jack up my CAR using the motor.

My car is a '82.

What exactly is the rear engine mount ? I know the 2 mounts in the back, but I'm guessing that's not exactly what you mean because I cannot see myself putting a jack there ;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276293790.jpg
Even with this small jack I'm not jacking on the motor and the rear wheels are off the ground.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276293862.jpg

That looks like a great spot!

I'll try that next time.