Having recently done this trial by fire myself (on my 85), I want to be much more confident of it's outcome the next time. James, on a factory setup can you get this gizmo in and can you see the pointers on most (or all) of the valves? And do you check with a feeler guage after? My experience was, that I had to back off the valve, insert the feeler, tighten the screw, move the feeler around (while hoping to feel that vague tugging feeling) ....then while holding the feeler in place and holding the screw, tighten the locknut. Of course the feeler would drop out or the screw would turn slightly setting up the next attempt. I can't imagine, given the space and the visibility, trying to push the feeler in without backing off the adjuster.... you (I) can only actually SEE a couple of places where the feeler needs to go. To use this gizmo, do have to drop the exhaust or anything else? I'm definitely looking for a better solution compared to my last experience, Thanks.

No need to do a partial drop. Removing the side tins does help though. Keeps you from crawling out from under the car constantly.

i did mine in the dirt, no jack and raining. not fun but only had to removed the valve covers. Totally doable. but jacked up would be the way to go. Depends on your ability and your experience.

Just a warning to the guy who adjusts his valves with a warm engine. Your valves will be too tight. That's why your valve train is so quiet now. You risk burning an exhaust valve if your clearance is too tight.

-Andy

I'd have to agree here. You'd be surprised at how much difference you'll see in metal expansion between even 75F and 105F (not too uncomfortable to the touch).

But then. . . .what about guys in Pheonix where the ambient temp is like 120 anyway LOL

I've a question. . . being that we can't really get a conventional torque wrench on the lockers, how tight should we get these? . . . one grunt, . . two. . . or just a 'hmm'.

I've often wondered about getting these too tight.

Something else I'm wondering about: If you adjust the valves cold to .004 so when they heat up to around normal operating temp (160-220) valve lash is around 0.0, why not just adjust when all warmed up to 0.0? In other words, screw down the foot to the cam and lock it in, move to the next set and so on. Should be done before the car cools off. And when it does cool off, it should be .004

One thing always seems to happen when I read these threads on Pelican. There are always guys who seem to think that they know more than both the engineers who designed the car, and the factory techs who wrote the manuals.

Two things to keep in mind.

A) The engine must be at normal temp for adjustment because of METALLURGY. Adjusting at temp, you are chasing your tale, so to speak. Engines are designed to be assembled and set up at room temp. Therefore, ADJUST them at room temp.

B) No freaking competent auto manufacturer EVER designed an car for which the valves couldn't best be adjusted while the engine wasn't fully in the freaking car!

Reading threads like this, I need a month away from public web boards again.

Are you saying that the valve clearance is less as the motor warms up?
If so, when adjusted warm, they would be too loose when hot. Because they already had smaller clearances when hot and I would be opening them up to .004".
Right? Or is it the other way around?

If there tight when cold, they will be tighter when hot. (cold means room temp. 15C,59F hot means engine operating temp.) if that helps.

Screenwriter-x, what was your name on here prior to being banned?

Holy crow James.....how big are you? I had my car on jack stands at a reasonable height, and still it wasn't wonderful. I have to see some of you guys in action doing this task. All BS aside, I guess you would recommend the "gizmo". I guess I should get one. Thanks

I work on aircraft, these things are roomy and spacey!!

I believe we may all stand corrected here.

If Track is adjusting them to .004 when warm (when they technically should be tighter), then when cold the worst case would be a wider gap.

Laws of physics applied would dictate that they would be looser at hot then, not tighter. Unfortunately, I never studied law. :rolleyes:

Radials much?

I have adjusted the valves in my 72 in the dirt numerous times and it's really pretty easy once you get the hang of it. But adjusting the valve with the engine warm, huh?

Oh I see, so you've been genetically selected for your "universal type" elbows, wrists,and knuckles..... and your eyeballs that see around corners.....cool! LOL

lean on rocker before 1st trying to insert feeler so it's as open as can be

Perfected my "remote hands" working on F-4 phantoms, not much room in there to see let enough put on 1/4" lock nuts and then safety wire everything!! Radials are a piece of cake!

Yeah, yeah. . . but they're SO much cooler. . . we have the remains of an old Liberator up on on of our mtns. Most of one of the 1830's is still intact. I'd love to bring that home!

Better yet, find me a 3350. BTW. . tale is Lufthansa will have the only airworthy L-1649 in a few more months. How cool is that!

done mine both standard and backside method, if you want to make the backside even easier take out your engine tin (did it while i was touching up then tin) and was great, and like James said lots of room .............

and speedy go back to the PRIVATE board if the public offends you