There is a 4360 mega engine at the musium of flight at the airport. That thing is ginormas!!! I work from time to time on one of there aircraft a AD-1 skyrader, 3350 is a cool engine, sounds great when starting, everyone smiles!!!! Oh yes, love them radials.

I don't care how much room you have in your engine bay, or how many times you have done it, if you have to put the gauge in at different angles, can't see straight on, trying to go by feel and thinking you are going to be within ~0.0005" accuracy, forget it.

Why do I like this screwdriver thingy so much? Using that, and checking via the backside go/no go sounds perfect! In fact, one could turn the tool 'just a leeetle bit' more and get the gap at the foot to change .0002" or so, which wouldn't hurt, and would help quiet things beautifully, no? Even if this little wonder tool moves a bit while in the screw when tightening the locknut up above, it shouldn't matter. I mean, the specs. allow for a bit of "+/-" anyway.....now I believe even I could do this in the dirt! I don't even think I'm missing anything here.... :D

you got it nesslar, Knowledge, Skill, Ability. That's what separate out weekend warriors and true mechanics. Dirt, rain, lack of space, darkness, these are just inconveniences-press on and upward.

Good observation, this is why his motor is quieter. Looser is better than tighter for keeping your motor quiet, but performance wise you want the valves opening to spec, so your engine can breath. I wonder at what point performance is degraded?

I agree with the tug method. After doing it a few times you just know whether it is in spec or not based on how far the arm moves when you tug on it. I ordered the special feeler guage tool that pelican sells and bent it 90. I have had no problem getting the guage under the elephant foot and using the standard method.

I second screenwritter-X, I guess I'll get the same treatment. After 25+ yrs of working on and flying aircraft, and even more time spent in, under, and around Porsche and BMW cars my advice is: Use the approved method, use a torque wrench, and double check your work. Then your machine won't let you down, Be it a lawn mower, Porsche, or even an F-16. Very junior adviser.

Sage advice Rev-it, we should post that statement when you log in so we all know not to think outside of the box just get a manual and read. One of the advantages of this forum is the exchange of constructive thought. If bolt X needs torque Y then yes, do it by the book. Creativity is nurtured not from a book but from our minds. I can show you at least a dozen things that were engineered poorly on my 911, and not corrected for like 40 years!! Torque values and routine maintenance might not need much tweaking but for me, I will keep thinking outside the box. And who knows, you might come up with the next must have thing that everyone wants.

So the screwdriver has 360 degrees around its body, and dividing by 10 gives us the magic 36 degree angle of the "prongs" to be inserted once holes are drilled. Please tell me 36 degrees is correct.....
The circumference of the body of the screwdriver, where the holes will be drilled, divided by 10 gives the distance between the two holes necessary for insertion of the prongs. No worry that you might be a tad off, just bend the prongs a bit after installation if necessary to obtain your 36 degrees (at the tip area of the prongs, because that is where you are going to line the thing up with the engine reference point when you back the adjusting screw out).
Then recheck the angle of the prongs everytime you drop the assembly; whenever you toss the thing into the toolbox as well, as you might end up adjusting too tight/loose next time around. Duh, right?
One question: Does the screwdriver have to be Guards Red? :D OK, a second question: Why did I just write this?!? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat5.gif

Why don't you just buy one like I did, there only $20.00???? I did not make mine or try to figure it out, just plunked down some cash. I have rooms of tools, that's all I do is buy tools. There on rennlist search for valve adjusting tool, before too many Corona's.
Nesslar, DECAFF!
The tool is very well made. Hardened tool steel pointers interferences fit to the polymer handle, no wiggle :)

I thought a place to purchase had been mentioned, but I didn't find that again before I wrote in..... :(
So I just grabbed a Corona...... :p

Yes have a cold one...
 

Help yourself...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1276651858.jpg

James

... Had too many Moosehead... to look for the tool. how about a photo?

Merci (dam booze, I'm reverting to French... I meant Thanks).

J.J.

Thanks! I just moved on to coors Light! :)
Oh, and the photos are posted back a ways...yes, in this very thread. You should be able to find more than one.... http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/pint1.gif http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif http://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...leys/sleep.gif
Quote: "... The tool is very well made. Hardened......, no wiggle...." What?!? :D

I'm starting to ZZZex-ing... What would be the post #?:D:D:D

This thread post # 21 Also, check out the youtube video on the VAS-911 tool

Merci mon ami...

Finished my valve adjust last night. Engine cold, but heated up the garage a little.
I used the special feeler gauge tool that I got from our host, and did it the standard method. It was easier to get the feeler in there after I bent it to 90 degrees. then, after some trial and error, I figured out how to get them done 'till each one felt right. This was the first time I adjusted these valves since I bought the car. they were all too tight at first, but the engine always ran quietly. Now I have noticed some valve ticking noise, so I guess that's better. I'll get it up to temp and see if it gets quieter. But for now, am I correct in assuming that a little noise is better than no noise?

Yes and congrats! It's not that hard, just looks like it is. What I do is the top ones first then tackle the lower ones. then double check then put back the valve covers. You should have it down to a 2 hour job next time.