New member & some questions

[911Jarle]

Hello!

First, I wanted to introduce myself.

Norwegian, 35 years, car nut, owned a lot of weird and interesting sporty cars.
Everything from Lambo's too Maserati's and Audi's.. Finally got around to buying myself a classic 911. 1979 SC with a 3.0 H6 FI engine..

Doing most of my work myself, I've changed timing chains on my Espada, taken out the engine on my Maser a couple times and splitting it, tuning it etc. So I reckon I can do most of the work on the 911 as well.

At this stage, I have taken out the stupid airpump, and plumbed the pipe entering the engine bay.

I have some other things I am planning to do..

1) Oil,filter change
2) Spark plug change
3) Spark wires change
4) Change the front wings\fenders to stock. Car has been professionally flat nose rebuilt, which I'm not 100% sure what I think about.

Just wondering if any of these jobs are a pain. A bit tight in the engine bay, so perhaps the 2 and 3 will be the most annoying jobs.

I'd also like to add, that I am an all year enthusiast. Most cars I've owned, I have driven all year. Meaning snow, rain or shine. I take care of them, rustproofing them and welding them up if rust appears. Only car I haven't driven during winter time is my former Lambo..

Have a nice evening!

Cheers, Jarle

[JJ 911SC]

Jarle

2 maybe but 3 is rather easy, one cable at the time. Add Fuel Filter change to your list.

Also digital photos are your best friend as in before, during and after.

Speaking of... Ou est la photo de la 1979Sc

Do you have Wayne's Project book? If not, it has to be your next purchase.

Cheers

J.J.

P.S. Noting wrong with a Slant Nose, whether from the factory or not... of course I'm kind of bias.

[John W.]

Welcome and enjoy your car. Post a pic when you can.

Oil change - be sure to have a pan that can hold 10+ quarts. Removing the plugs are a whole lot easier with the factory tool that should be in your tool kit. It provides a little swivel action and helps a bunch.

[911Jarle]

One picture from the rear..

Some nice touches to the car I think..

1) Tein shocks all around
2) Racing dynamics brace in front
3) Gotti wheels, 345/35 15". Amazing grip on dry tarmac.
4) Proper Recaro seats.. Though a bit worn.
5) Personally, I like the slant nose. But they are a bit difficult to sell in Norway. Considering building it back.

Will order fuel filter as you guys reccomend.
Will post some more pictures as well later.
Will check the car more thorough to find the original tools.

I've bought Castrol synthetic 5-40 for the car. Is that something that suits the car?

Thanks guys!

[felix83]

Not that I'm anything but a Porsche novice, but according to a, if not THE, leading Porsche mechanic in Sweden (Björn Waldegård's mechanic), the oil to use is Castrol GTX 15W40 mineral oil. Synthetic oil, especially modern stuff with many additives, can dissolve old gunk from inside the engine which may shorten its life span. Also, you don't want to use too light an oil, as it can exacerbate the oil leaks that old Porsches almost certainly have.

Also, don't buy your oil filter from Porsche. Apparently, they've changed their supplier from Mahle (good stuff!) to something else. The new filters seem to cause a larger degree of foaming in the oil tank. So make sure to buy Mahle or Bosch oil filters.

Again, I don't claim to know half as much as the other people here, but that's the information I've (recently) gathered from lots of places all round the 'web, from people who I know to be reliable and knowledgeable.

Good luck and welcome to the community!

[911Jarle]

Originally Posted by felix83

Not that I'm anything but a Porsche novice, but according to a, if not THE, leading Porsche mechanic in Sweden (Björn Waldegård's mechanic), the oil to use is Castrol GTX 15W40 mineral oil. Synthetic oil, especially modern stuff with many additives, can dissolve old gunk from inside the engine which may shorten its life span. Also, you don't want to use too light an oil, as it can exacerbate the oil leaks that old Porsches almost certainly have.

Also, don't buy your oil filter from Porsche. Apparently, they've changed their supplier from Mahle (good stuff!) to something else. The new filters seem to cause a larger degree of foaming in the oil tank. So make sure to buy Mahle or Bosch oil filters.

Again, I don't claim to know half as much as the other people here, but that's the information I've (recently) gathered from lots of places all round the 'web, from people who I know to be reliable and knowledgeable.

Good luck and welcome to the community!

Thanks for the welcome..

Regarding oil. It seems like the engine has been run on synthetic. Former change was at least. That's why I decided to follow that route.

Oil was bought based on reccomended specs from Porsche. The Castrol oil seemed to fullfill all of them, and then some. Will call the norwegian importer and hear what they say as well..

Will follow your reccomendation on the mahle filter. Thanks!

Cheers, Jarle

[nineball]

pick up both of these. very nice to have on hand.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: BK-131569AP

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-P983

[LUFTMAN]

Welcome jarel looks like it is a very nice car. Is it a us model ?curious has big bumberetts like us version. The valve adjustment should be checked and adjusted every 15000 miles the clearence is .004 thousand of a inch .0015 hundred of a millimerter a little work involved remove upper and lower valve covers (4) turn engine to z1 (tdc) remove distributor cap align rotor button with notch on distibutor housing that is no.1 cyl. Adjust upper and lower valve clearence with special feeler gauge holder and gauge. Turn engine clockwise 120 degrees to next notch on pulley no.6 cyl. Adjust valves. Turn engine another 120 degrees and so on thru firing order 1 6 2 4 3 5 also before starting drain oil at oil tank and adjust valves at room temp. Best to do this when you want to change oil any way drain engine also . Remove strainer plate on bottom of engine (8) 6mm nuts there is a screen in there look for any foriegn particales. That will give you a good idea of internal condition. 4to5 hour job well worth it. When valve cover are off check to see if any cyl. Head studs are broken espically on bottom(exhaust) those year engines 3.0 had problems with that look for 10 mm allen nuts lying in valve cover area look at studs with flashlight (24) studs 4 per cyl. If any are broken do not drive car you may burn cyl. Head or cyl. That can be expensive. Good luck with your new car regards tom

[911Jarle]

Originally Posted by nineball

pick up both of these. very nice to have on hand.

Pelican Parts - Product Information: BK-131569AP

Pelican Parts - Product Information: PEL-P983

Thanks, will certainly do so.. Have a nice morning!

Cheers, Jarle

[911Jarle]

Originally Posted by LUFTMAN

Welcome jarel looks like it is a very nice car. Is it a us model ?curious has big bumberetts like us version. The valve adjustment should be checked and adjusted every 15000 miles the clearence is .004 thousand of a inch .0015 hundred of a millimerter a little work involved remove upper and lower valve covers (4) turn engine to z1 (tdc) remove distributor cap align rotor button with notch on distibutor housing that is no.1 cyl. Adjust upper and lower valve clearence with special feeler gauge holder and gauge. Turn engine clockwise 120 degrees to next notch on pulley no.6 cyl. Adjust valves. Turn engine another 120 degrees and so on thru firing order 1 6 2 4 3 5 also before starting drain oil at oil tank and adjust valves at room temp. Best to do this when you want to change oil any way drain engine also . Remove strainer plate on bottom of engine (8) 6mm nuts there is a screen in there look for any foriegn particales. That will give you a good idea of internal condition. 4to5 hour job well worth it. When valve cover are off check to see if any cyl. Head studs are broken espically on bottom(exhaust) those year engines 3.0 had problems with that look for 10 mm allen nuts lying in valve cover area look at studs with flashlight (24) studs 4 per cyl. If any are broken do not drive car you may burn cyl. Head or cyl. That can be expensive. Good luck with your new car regards tom

Yes, it's a US model. The slant nose work was done at pristine motorsports.
Thanks for the valve check tips as well. Will buy a workshop manual and prepare for the job.

Cheers, Jarle

[fredmo1947]

Welcome...very nice car! A couple things....I recently did my first valve adjust on my 76 911 with a 3.0L engine using the "Backside" method. It was rather painless and is well described in an article in the Tech section of the Pelican website.

Also, in case you do not know, checking the oil level in your car is probably different than any other car you've owned. The 911 oil level should be checked when the engine is warm, running and on level ground. The correct level should show oil in the middle of the dipstick between the high and low marks.

Welcome!

[911Jarle]

Originally Posted by fredmo1947

Welcome...very nice car! A couple things....I recently did my first valve adjust on my 76 911 with a 3.0L engine using the "Backside" method. It was rather painless and is well described in an article in the Tech section of the Pelican website.

Also, in case you do not know, checking the oil level in your car is probably different than any other car you've owned. The 911 oil level should be checked when the engine is warm, running and on level ground. The correct level should show oil in the middle of the dipstick between the high and low marks.

Welcome!

Will have to read more about the backside method..

Thanks for the tip regarding the oil level check as well. I have a manual, and read it there. It's because it has no sump I guess?

Including another picture of my car: