Help with engine pull

[kent olsen]

I see in one of the Tech articles you can pull the engine and leave the transmission in the car! I'm right at that spot now.

1. If I pull the transmission with the engine do I just remove the two outer transmission bolts, the ones that look like the engine mounts. Or can you remove the four bolts that connect the transmission to that crossmember?

2.If I pull the engine only, how much of a problem is it during installation to align the engine and transmission together? I'm concerned with the alignment of the the clutch, pilot bearing, etc while balancing the engine on my jack, I'm using a motorcycle jack.

3. If I pull the engine and then go back to get the transmission it would be easier but again how much of that rear crossmember comes out with the transmission.

Awaiting a reply, Thanks everyone.

[Oh Haha]

Pull the trans and engine out together. http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_engine_drop/911_engine_drop-1.htm

Yes, you CAN remove just the engine or just the trans but mating them together while under the car is a PIA.

Do you have the 101 Projects books? It details the removal in an easy to understand fashion.

[Walter_Middie]

The few more minutes it takes to unbolt the axles and pull the engine and trans together is much easier that the hours of screaming, crying, and yelling it takes to get the trans and engine back together while you are working under the car.

[kent olsen]

That's what I was thinking also. Now which bolts do I remove at the rear of the transmission? The two outer ones that look like the engine mounts or the four little ones that connect the transmission to the crossmember?

[Oh Haha]

remove the 2 big ones at the transmission that go into the car body. I believe they are 17 mm heads.

make sure you have the engine/trans combo supported before unbolting.

Do you have anyone to help you?

[kent olsen]

Nope doing it solo. It looks like when you pull those two bolts the rear of the transmission will rest on the sway bar (oh this is a 72 cpe). I've also pulled the exhaust from the car. I have a motorcycle jack for the engine. I'm setting some boards on it to support the engine. I think I'll but my small floor jack under the tranny. Then as I pull it all out I can slowly lower each end.

Sound ok?

[Oh Haha]

It SHOULD be ok that way. Will it clear the sway bar coming down?

Again, please be sure to have everything supported and stable before removing the last bolt. We don't need anyone getting injured or worse.



I did my first removal by myself(wife was in the house).

[kent olsen]

I'll have to slide it rearward the width of the crossmember to lower the tranny. It looks like the engine will drop out of the engine bay first while the transmission sits on the sway bar. I'll make sure my small floor jack is supporting the transmission in case the sway bar mounts let go. I've also removed the carbs so the height is only up to the fan.

[Gunter]

Hm.................

Select 1st or 3rd gear to push the shift rod on the transmission in so it is shorter when you lower and try to get out of the tunnel.

You shouldn't need 2 jacks. Find the sweet-spot to balance both engine and transmission, it is just in front of the sump plate.

Since you're doing it solo, support the whole unit by stacking some pieces of 2x6 or 2x8 under the heater boxes and then lower gradually removing the wood as you come down.

Remember that you need balance and support in all directions.

Don't rush. A few people learned the hard way that removing the engine/transmission in a hurry is a bad mistake.

Only remove all 4 mounting bolts when you're satisfied that you have solid support, good balance and lots of wooden pieces within reach.

Check one more time that everything is disconnected!

[PCA7GGR]

Don't forget to open the hatch in the rear of the passenger compartment tunnel to disconnect the shift rod from the tranny and the wires for the speedo. Also disconnect the ground strap from the body.

These two items, often overlooked, can be real show stoppers during the actual drop. Enjoy!

[kent olsen]

Thanks everyone for your help. The first time is the learning experience, after that it's a breeze. Doing it by myself I don't want to pull it half way and then have to crawl under it to disconnect something.

Thanks again.

[john walker's workshop]

72 has a speedo cable that attaches to the end of the trans. easy to break the trans end cover if you forget to take it off. and remove the sway bar. i rarely take the engine and trans out together unless it's a 70/71 or 87 up. either way, be sure to disconnect the shift coupler in the tunnel.

[Hugh R]

Don't know your car, but get some brake cleaner spray and spray the hex head bolts on the 1/2 shafts, and get a NEW allen head socket and make sure you seat it in well before unbolting each 1/2 shaft. If you do work on the 1/2 shafts search and read the Ultimate CV Joint thread, long but well worth it. Especially Grady Clay's insight. Especially on reinstallation, DO NOT use anti-seize on the bolts, if anything, use Locktight. Spray the holes with brake cleaner to get ALL grease out of the CV joints and the threads in the tranny/hubs. Use a NEW allen head socket again. Retorque at 100 and 500 miles and annually thereafter. If those puppies come loose at speed, the damage they will do in one second will drop your jaw.

Note to self, when changing the oil over the holidays, retorque the CV joints.

[kent olsen]

Thanks everyone. Amazing how you can work on the car, take a short break, get on Pelican and answer a question before you go back out to finish.

I dropped the engine/transmission with little or no problem with your all's help. I then had trouble getting it all out from under the car. I'm at the max height of my jack stands. I even lower the front, no tires, down onto a 4X4. I had to quit and leave it all there to get ready to airline to the Pacific Northwest to visit family. It'll still be there when I get home Tuesday. I have a few more days to finish up before I go back to work.

[yelcab1]

Remove the bumper and you'll get another 6 inches. Even then, you may still need to jack up the back of the car some more.

[Gunter]

Sounds like the jack stands are not big/high enough to extend.

Before taking the bumper off, I'd get bigger jack stands.

Pre-lift the car a little at a time, place the wide-base stands under the T-bar covers.
Heights required: 32.5" from floor to underside of bumper will clear the engine to be rolled out on the floor jack. To obtain 32.5", I found that the T-bar covers will be 23.5" off the ground resting on the 5-ton jacks.

In my case, I didn't have to remove the bumper or the front wheels to be able to roll out the engine on my 3-ton floor jack.

[Dave Kost]

Kent,

Personally I have found it easier pulling the license plate panel off.

Dave

[Gunter]

Here is another one with bumper showing.

[Oh Haha]

Yep, pull the valance off for a littleextra room BUT you will probably still need to get the rear higher to get it out from under the car.

I use my largest jack stands and place themunder the torque tube in the rear on square blocks of wood about 1x10.

Raising the front some more will actually help extract the engine even though it seems contradictory. The front of your car will only go so low before you start crushing the front valance. DO NOT ask me how I know.

Good luck and have a safe trip.

[Gunter]

Good point, Oh Haha, about leaving the front wheels on to prevent crushing the valance.

In fact, I have 4" under the wheels with wedges front and rear.

One issue can be if the floor jack doesn't go down low enough.
Also, I found it easiest to remove the heat exchangers before lowering.
With the HE's removed, I could roll out with about 1/2" clearance after raising the rear bumper to about 32.5"

Anything to avoid the extra work of removing the rear bumper.