How do you know when its time to replace shocks???

[Mark Howard]

My '88 Carrera appears to have the original shocks still on the car. I have done the bounce test and checked for leaks, both are fine. What leads me to believe its time to replace them is the overall ride. Some sway around the turns and noisy when I go over bumps. Some rocket scientist sprayed an undercoating on them (and did a fine job of it) so I can't really tell how old they are.

Any tips from you suspension experts?

mh

[pwd72s]

You know, on P cars, I'm not sure...I'm still running original Konis at 46,000 miles. So far, they seem great. On Detroit iron, I'd say as soon as you buy the car. Just put a set of Edelbrock shocks on my wife's '99 Ford Ranger (2 wheel drive, 4.0 4 door) and the transformation was pure magic! It's almost fun to drive now.

Not so long ago I replaced the shocks on my 84 Carrera 3.2 and I'm really happy with the result. The car handles and feels much better now. I had the original Boge before, but now I have Bilstein Club Sport. The improvement might not have been so big if I had chosen Boge OEM instead. (?)

[osidak]

I know the shocks are color coded but my shock color doesn't match any that I have read.

The car is a 1978 Euro 911sc the shocks are blue (confirmed by two other people)

I would like to know what they are so I can replace them when it comes time.

osidak

[Joeaksa]

If your car has the factory set of shocks in it, then its way past time to change them. If a PO has updated the shocks to a better set then you might still be good to go, but its a tough call. If you know of anyone who has the same model car (more or less) with newer shocks, drive it and compare the difference.

Look at the back shocks and see what is in the car now. Scrape some of the undercoating off of them and see what color they are.

I changed the shocks in my 85 model last fall and it was like day and night in the difference. Should have done it years ago, yet I was not unhappy with its handling before the upgrade. You just do not notice it that much when the shocks go soft. Where the car turned into a corner before with reasonable quickness, now you think about it and its done. Really tightened up the suspension but its not harsh either.

I went with Bilstein HD in front and Sport in the back and am very pleased. Whoever you get them from, make 100% sure that they are shipping a wrench to install the shocks with your new units. I did the shocks and then a week later put the turbo tie rods on the car and am really mad that I did not do this long ago...

This was well worth the time and money for me!

Joe

[masraum]

I'm fairly certain the stock Boge shocks on our cars are hydraulic (as opposed to gas charged like Bilsteins). The change from hydr to gas charged shocks on any car will make a huge difference. Hydraulic shocks are actually just dampers. They resist compression and extension so they slow the bouncing affect of the cars springs. With hydr shocks if you are cornering the car will sway just as much as it would if you had no shocks because the continual application of pressure will compress the outer shocks because they have no resistance. Bilsteins are gas charged and so actually actively resist compression which helps resist body roll to some extent in corners. Adding Bilsteins will likely lift your car some because they actively extend themselves as much as they are able. I have always prefered gas charged shocks on all of my cars as they do feel and handle better.
Mark, if your shocks don't seem bad they may not be. If you change them with stock hydraulic Boge replacements (unless Boge has changed to gas charged) you may not see any change or improvement. You would have to change from hydr to gas charged (Bilstein) or really stiff gas charged (Bilstein sport or HD) to be guaranteed a difference.
Sorry for the ramble, but wanted to make sure things were clear.

[Harold_89_911]

I recently changed the four original Boge shocks on my 89 Targa with 118k miles. When I bought the car, I knew that had to be done. Most noticable was driving on the freeway through bumpy curves. If you are getting scared, it's time to replace them. They still did fine with the bumper compression test but road performance was worse than my 900 Saab. I replaced my Boge's with four new Boge's (I can confirm they were both hydraulic). I was afraid that Bilsteins would make the ride too stiff but now I know better and wished I had gone for the Bilsteins.

When I compared the old and new set off the car, the most noticable difference on the rear was the re-bound. The new ones came up much faster than the old ones. On the front, the compression of the old ones was much easier than the new ones. On the road, it makes a huge difference in ride quality. Leaves me wondering what Bilsteins would have done... At least, I know how to change them now.

Want to buy a set of nearly new Boge's??

[john walker's workshop]

my theory is; if it has boges, it needs bilsteins.

[Tyson Schmidt]

Blue? Not O.E. then. Probably Tokiko's. Wipe off the undercoating on the lower portion of your front struts. You should be able to read the Brand on the strut housing. This will tell you which strut housings you need to order inserts for. Most likely they are Boge.

My recommendations are Koni, for street-track-autocross use, and Bilstein, for street use.

Bilsteins ride better, and Koni's are adjustable, for a better street/track compromise.

[targa88]

Primarily the issue you should adress, is the use of your car - track or street; and to what extent. Then the next issue is how much you want to spend.
Their are a number of variations (Koni, Boge, Bilstein), and then the fun begins, coil overs, adjustable etc. In this case money becomes the primary object.
Bilstein set up like Joe, are a good all round choice.

[dickster]

mark

i'm in a similar position. i have an 86 coupe not sure how old the shocks are. the bounce test can be difficult with stiff suspension anyhow.

i am going to disconnect the shocks on mine (if i can get the damn nuts undone!) at the top only on the front and bottom on the back. it is easier then to test the shocks with them disconnected. if you extend and compress the shocks and test for resistance (which there should be a lot of) you can tell how good, bad or shot they are.

no doubt though if they've done 50k miles then new ones will feel alot better.

cheers

richard

[Clark Griswald]

Konis and Bilstein should be good for 100k. Bogies maybe 50k.

But John is right. Replace the bogies at any mileage!

Switching to Koni or Bilstein makes a huge difference in control. Really huge.

[Mark Howard]

Update....My '88 will probably never see the track, and I really don't hot rod (too much) on the road. I'm most concerned about the following, in this order:

General maintenance
PRICE
Ride quality
Performance

I think Konis are out of the question, don't really need them. Bilstein are probably more than I really need performance wise and the price is higher than: Boge, probably the best choice that fits my screening criteria. I see PP sells KYB shocks. What about them? They are really inexpensive, but are they really cheap?

Thoughts again, please.

[targa88]

OEM equipment was either Boge or Bilstein. I would stick with either of those choices. Preferably Bilstein.

Try : www.shox.com

[Clark Griswald]

Mark,

If price is the primary criteria, and you really need shocks, then I guess bogie is the way to go.

But Track or no track, I can't imagine a Porsche owner who would not appreciating the difference that koni or bilstein bring. It is truly transforming. To me it would be worth saving your pennies and waiting till you have the coin for these shocks. Shop around, the prices vary greatly.

Then again maybe I am wrong, I constantly run into reminders that not everyone thinks like me. Your criteria priority list is different than mine.

[pwd72s]

Originally posted by targa88
OEM equipment was either Boge or Bilstein. I would stick with either of those choices. Preferably Bilstein.

Try : www.shox.com

That depends on the year. My '72S came from the factory equipped with KONI. Dunno about the '89 model year...

[VenezianBlau 87]

Originally posted by Harold_89_911
I recently changed the four original Boge shocks on my 89 Targa with 118k miles. When I bought the car, I knew that had to be done. Most noticable was driving on the freeway through bumpy curves. If you are getting scared, it's time to replace them.

This sounds familiar.
I just noticed on a long freeway trip that any slightly bumpy stretch of road turns into a double white-knuckler. Although it really doesn't need correction, it sure feels out of control. Mine are the Boge. However, I don't know if turbo tie rods would be useful at my relatively slow speeds on country roads.

-----------------
Bob Sauerteig
'87 Coupe

[Superman]

Bilsteins are so much better than ordinary shocks that an OLD set of Bilsteins will outperform almost any other brand new shock. There is a huge difference between a good shock and a cheap one, and these devices has such a profound effect on handling and safety that I have to recommend spending the money for good ones. A shock's job is to keep the tire on the road surface. If they do a lousy job of this, then you're wasting your rmoney on any and all other performance parts including good tires, brakes, etc.

I'm pretty economical too and I can understand a thrifty decision, but I will still strongly suggest the Bilstein option.

[RoninLB]

I agree w/ Superman and have had been following this philosophy for decades. A shock should allow tire to follow road contours and not allow tires to fly over them. Bilsteins are a class act on the street.

[gblumenstock]

So what is the best way to verify if you need new shocks?

I have Bilstein Sports on the rear but am unsure of their vintage. I noticed that the shock rubber (on top of the rear shock) looks cracked which leads me to believe they have been in the car awhile. If I go over a "turtle" at highway speeds, it sounds as if the car is bottoming out. I have tried the bounce test and it seems fine.

Any suggestions?

GB