Oil Change

[Mikey37027]

I am going to perform my first oil change on my 1972 911T. It is set-up with Weber carbs and S-cams. Prior to my purchase it sat idle for about 8 years. Any thoughts on oil brands and/or weight? Thanks in advance.

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Mikey37027

I am going to perform my first oil change on my 1972 911T. It is set-up with Weber carbs and S-cams. Prior to my purchase it sat idle for about 8 years. Any thoughts on oil brands and/or weight? Thanks in advance.

Mike

I'm afraid that you just wake-up the oil monster... There is a lot of threads on this.

Search is your best friend.

Anyway, I use




$5 and free shipping at Amazon.com: Brad Penn Oil 009-7119S 20W-50 Racing Oil - 1 Quart: Automotive

Stand by for opinions and possibly abuse

[Jdub]

Backing up, is it possible to get fresh gas and Techron in the car for one nice long drive prior to dumping your oil?

Oil-wise I keep to the background. Used to live by Castrol 20-50 but have adopted an opinion I found hanging around this 'Board. You may find one as well!

[Mikey37027]

I did have the carbs rebuild, fuel lines cleaned/replaced and a new fuel tank installed. I will try the Techron on my drive prior to changeing the oil. Thanks.

[Flieger]

Ultimate Motor Oil Thread or Why we hate CJ4/SM oils

[aigel]

I wouldn't drive on 8 year old oil. Not a mile. I would put a cheap oil in there now and run it for 100 miles and dump that out. Then go with the long term oil of your choice.

George

[AlfonsoR]

The ultimate oil thread is the only one you need to read, see link in Max's post #5. There is a summary on the first page.

I wouldn't put in cheap oil for the flush, I would put in what I'm going to use long term, and like stated above, flush shortly there-after. The whole purpose of doing a flush is to get the junk out, so why put junk (cheap oil) in? Just my opinion. Good luck.

[Vincent Hill]

Originally Posted by aigel

I wouldn't drive on 8 year old oil. Not a mile. I would put a cheap oil in there now and run it for 100 miles and dump that out. Then go with the long term oil of your choice.

George

Agreed! Oil is not Cheap, but it is cheaper than anything else you can do to the car! So Buy a Case of Vavoline 10W 40 or 20W 50 and maybe even change the filter and drive it for a few Hundred miles (Making sure they are continue for at least 30 to 50 at a time ) to get the oil Hot! I suggested the 10w 40 because it will penetrate cold a little better than the 20w50. You may even want to get a Case of each and use the 10w 40 first with the new Filter and then change to the 20W 50 for a longer time while trying to decide what you want to end up with! For now that is what I am doing and I am still not sure what i will end up using I know that Because of the Additive Package of Racing Oil that I do not prefer them specially when the car holds so much and takes so long to heat up.

[Flieger]

Castrol GTX 20W50 makes a good flush oil since it has lots of aggressive detergents, good amounts of zinc and phosphorous, and shears/thins down to a 30W right quick. Just change it out for the good oil somewhat soon, as the detergents can be bad if they sit.

[jimbauman]

Originally Posted by aigel

I wouldn't drive on 8 year old oil. Not a mile. I would put a cheap oil in there now and run it for 100 miles and dump that out. Then go with the long term oil of your choice.

George

George - I'm surprised you didn't recommend your favorite flushing lubricant- Marvel Mystery Oil!!

JB

[aigel]

Only for stuck lifters - none in that flat six. But indeed, you may want to pour half a quart if you think there is a lot of gunk.

George

[80-911SC]

+ 1 on the cheap oul 100 mile run in, then drain the cheap out and use it in the lawn mower or your wifes car ........... and pick up either the Brad Penn or the Swepco, most here say the Brad Penn and then use Swepco gear oil for the tranny .............