Brake Caliper Orings?

[khamul02]

So I split the calipers on the front and rear to do a thorough rebuild and as everyone says... the inner orings are not in my kits... so the question is where do I find them.. They seem to be a flat type oring.

[rick-l]

You could read through this.....

split calipers - seals - Warren?

[khamul02]

So is this indeed what I need from pelican?

914-6 O-Ring, Fits Between Caliper Halves

[khamul02]

anybody ...

[James Brown]

What ever you do, DO NOT split the callapers the O rings are NLA except from ATE. But they are out there somewhere. There should be someone chiming in that has the answer. And a set of new bolts would be good also.

[patkeefe]

I got some from a brake rebuilder in Seattle. They are hard to find.

[khamul02]

So the orings above do not work??

[James Brown]

I have no idea but I would make sure that you have the right parts for the brakes.

[chris_seven]

The only real way to completely refurbish a caliper is to split it into two halves.

There is a large specialist in the UK and they have developed a very carefully controlled series of processes.

They start by dismantling the caliper and discarding pistons etc.

The caliper halves are then thermally processed in a Controlled Pyrolysis Oven.

The halves are then acid pickled to remove any corrosion from the internal oilways.

They are then shot blasted in a wheel abrator type machine, cleaned, zinc plated and passivated.

The fasteners are cleaned and reused by chermical cleaning and cold blacking to avoid any problems of hydrogen embrittlement.


All seals are generally manufactured from EPDM which has good temperature resistance and is brake fluid resistant.

I buy seals in bags of 100 and can source the inner seal without issue. Dust boots are supplied from the same source as are the main caliper seals.

[vonsmog]

Here is where I get them from when rebuilding the calipers on Unimogs. Which are made by ATE and the o-rings are the same as on Porsches.

http://www.eurotruck-importers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3_101&products_id=944

[khamul02]

Thanks Von.. We will see how it turns out...

[ajwans]

Eric Shea at PMB performance can supply the o-rings.
He also does a real nice job of rebuilding calipers too.

andy

[Eric_Shea]

What ever you do, DO NOT split the callapers

Seriously? That's one of the biggest internet myths on the planet.

PM me and I'll get you some o-rings.

We restore all vintage ATE calipers. Splitting the 1/2's is a must to do the job properly. All calipers are bead blasted to bare metal and re-zinc plated (yes, ATE used zinc not cad... another myth exploded).

Again, PM me your address and I'll hook you up.

E.

[James Brown]

Hang on Eric, there is a difference with a home mechanic that buys a rebuild kit only to find out that the O rings are not in the kit and has to get the car back together to go to work Monday and sending the calipers out to a proper rebuild shop like yours. If you read the first post, Tom took it all apart and then found out that the O rings were not included.
'the inner orings are not in my kits'

[Eric_Shea]

So I split the calipers

Sounds like he's already beyond your point of advice so...

Here's my take on it:

The myth got started, probably by dealers and manufacturers that didn't want every Tom, Dick and Hans with a metric tool set attempting to rebuild calipers. Good call.

Since then, 70% of the people still believe they "can't risk the hand of [insert your favorite deity here]" by taking their calipers apart. Non-sense.

It can be done. We have o-rings. It's fairly simple and, they can be put back together with a few simple rules:

1. Get a Ribe bit set (ZDMAK is your friend). You'll need an R6 for the rears and an R8 for the fronts. If you don't, you'll damage these near priceless NLA fasteners.
2. Use the Ribe bit "ONLY" to hold the fastener. Do not turn with it.
3. Use a fairly good size air-wrench to spin off the 13's (front) and/or 11's (rear)
4. Have them black Zinc coated (it's worth it ya cheapskates! While you're at it, have the calipers plated too.)
5. Re-torque using the proper sequence (and with new seals of course). 2-3-1-4 at 10 then 28ftlbs. for the front and 7 then 17ftlbs. for the rear.

No rocketry involved.

[James Brown]

I recommend this thread to the pelicanWiki, great info.

[khamul02]

Thanks a ton for this advice! Now I have a game plan past what most offer. I did grab some of those orings from an above link. They look the same so ... we will see.

Originally Posted by Eric_Shea

Sounds like he's already beyond your point of advice so...

Here's my take on it:

The myth got started, probably by dealers and manufacturers that didn't want every Tom, Dick and Hans with a metric tool set attempting to rebuild calipers. Good call.

Since then, 70% of the people still believe they "can't risk the hand of [insert your favorite deity here]" by taking their calipers apart. Non-sense.

It can be done. We have o-rings. It's fairly simple and, they can be put back together with a few simple rules:

1. Get a Ribe bit set (ZDMAK is your friend). You'll need an R6 for the rears and an R8 for the fronts. If you don't, you'll damage these near priceless NLA fasteners.
2. Use the Ribe bit "ONLY" to hold the fastener. Do not turn with it.
3. Use a fairly good size air-wrench to spin off the 13's (front) and/or 11's (rear)
4. Have them black Zinc coated (it's worth it ya cheapskates! While you're at it, have the calipers plated too.)
5. Re-torque using the proper sequence (and with new seals of course). 2-3-1-4 at 10 then 28ftlbs. for the front and 7 then 17ftlbs. for the rear.

No rocketry involved.