![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
![]()
The sockets where the targa top removal tool goes in my 1977 911 are broken. A local machine shop can remanufacture them, but I have to take them out of the top. Any tips?
Also, the tach does not work after my rebuilt tranny was installed last week. The mechanic says he doublechecked all the connections. Help. |
||
![]() |
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Great NorthWest
Posts: 3,950
|
![]()
John:
Get ahold of Dan at Carsinc in New Jersey. He is a tremendous resource for Targa tops and should be consulted before you do anything else! He may be able to walk you through a removal process none of us know about. Call him at 609 298 2277 or check out his website at carsinc-nj.com. Also, I have an extra top key, just one. However, it may be enough for you to get started..let me know. For the tach, I am wondering if the extra 915 that was put in there may be different in terms of "picking up" the tach signal? Smarter posters than myself will know (read: plea to Mr J. Walker, paging Mr. J Walker...). Jdub |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]()
Good (early) Morning, John.
I'll check out Dan's site and then give him a call if I need more. FYI, in the end I had the original tranny rebuilt and reinstalled. Can't find Techron up here, BTW -- any reasonable facsimiles you're aware of? Also, weather has been so good here in Ontario that I haven't had the roof in since I bought it a week ago! Thanks. |
||
![]() |
|
Crotchety Old Bastard
|
![]()
My old '73T had the same problem with the Targa. If memory serves the latches are held in place with two Allen head bolts. Very easy to remove. I had a machine shop make the defective parts, cost $20 vs several hundred for new latches.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
WJG2,
Unless you meant speedometer rather than tach in that '77, the mechanic didn't check very carefully when unstalling, or 'rechecking' ... Well, even if you did mean speedometer, he didn't check or work very carefully about the speedo sender in the side of the 915 that was presumably working before he pulled and rebuilt the tansaxle, now did he? Or, is killing various instruments acceptable for techs to do with engine and transaxle work these days? ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]()
Warren: Unfortunately, during the tragicomedy that led to me buying this car, one shop removed the tranny, another rebuilt it, and a third reinstalled it. I blame the original guy (a dead ringer for that tall guy in Deliverance) for the screwup.
All that aside, do you think I should try replacing the sender? Thanks. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
|
![]()
RarlyL8: Can you give me a slightly more detailed description of the process? For example: How did you remove the plastic piece surrounding the opening where you insert the wrench? JG
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
![]()
WJG2,
Sounds like Gomer or Goober might have damaged the wires or connector where they hook to the body harness. You might want to check the sender leads with an oscilloscope or AC Voltmeter for a signal of about 4 Volts with the car up on jack stands, and engine idling in 2nd gear. The signal is 4 pulses per revolution of the wheels. And, if the connectors look the least bit damaged or 'stressed' ... make sure you are making good contact with the wires to the test leads/clips! ------------------ Warren Hall 1973 911S Targa |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2001
Posts: 18
|
![]()
I rebuilt my Targa latches myself using repair parts ordered from Stoddard Imports. The repair process is not difficult if you have access to a die grinder, a hammer, and a small socket to drive the repair piece in place.
The part number for the Stoddard repair piece is SIC.565.032.00 (my 1998 invoice shows this at $19.50 each). A brief description of the repair. 1)Carefully grind off the retaining tabs protruding through the sideplate on the latch body. 2) Separate the latch. 3)Drive the old receptacle out of the link eccentric. 4) Press/drive on the repair piece. 5) Clean off old grease (if any) 6) Reassemble. 7) Spot braze the tabs ground off earlier 8)Lube the entire assembly with high temp grease such as LubroMoly CV grease. I didn't have access to an acetylene torch, so I used high strength solder especially made for steel. 3 years and still working great. List of parts purchased: 2 Ea - 901.565.299.45 2 Ea - SIC.565.032.00 2 Ea - SIC.565.033.00 Total Cost: abot $50 Amount saved: $200 Time spent: 3 hours |
||
![]() |
|