Help Buying a "new" 1982 Porsche 911 SC...

[blloyd29]

Hello everyone,
I have always been very impressed with Porsche and I am finally in a position where I can buy one. I am currently looking at a 1982 Porsche 911 SC. Here is a list of stuff the current owner sent to me:

"color is seal gray, body has about 117k miles on it, the engine was rebuilt about 20k mi ago (I have all records), interior was redone by the previous owner (white leather, red piping), and it has the following upgrades:

- KYB front struts
- KYB rear shocks
- Upgraded tie rods
- RSR aluminum strut bar (front)
- K&N air filter
- Bursch exhaust (I have a spare set)
- Momo steering wheel
- OEM short shift kit w/ Momo shift knob
- Hawk brake pads, red calipers, new brake hoses
- Original Fuchs wheels were chromed
- Bosch Platinum spark plugs
- Newer fan belt (2006)
- Battery trickle charger
- Newer heat exchangers (2004)"





What are common problems I should look for on these cars? And if this is all true, what should I expect to pay for this type of car? There really aren't very many out there so it's hard to find a value. Thank you very much for your help, I hope to join your Porsche owners club soon!

[Drisump]

With that list of work you would think that it has had Carrera chain tensioners installed, maybe you should (if you haven't already) ask though.

[blloyd29]

I will ask that next time I talk with him, thank you.

[stealthn]

And a pop-off valve in the air box. There should be a list on here somewhere of what to look for.

Shouldn't be running platnum plugs though.


Good Luck.

[McLovin]

Originally Posted by blloyd29

the following upgrades:

- KYB front struts
- KYB rear shocks
- Upgraded tie rods
- RSR aluminum strut bar (front)
- K&N air filter
- Bursch exhaust (I have a spare set)
- Momo steering wheel
- OEM short shift kit w/ Momo shift knob
- Hawk brake pads, red calipers, new brake hoses
- Original Fuchs wheels were chromed
- Bosch Platinum spark plugs
- Newer fan belt (2006)
- Battery trickle charger
- Newer heat exchangers (2004)"

KYBs, K&N, Bursch, chrome wheels and platinum plugs are all "downgrades" from factory parts.

KYBs and Bursch, those are signs of a previous owner doing things "on the cheap."

I think the biggest issue with this particular car is the "engine rebuild." That term means many different things to different people. Would need to know who did the "rebuild," what exactly that included, etc.

A crank up rebuild with new pistons, cylinders, etc. by a highly reputable builder is one thing. A half azz valve job by a hack is also considered a "rebuild" by many, and would be another thing. Need to see the documentation on that.

Anyways, a good 82 SC with 117K miles on it is generally a $10-$14K car.

[Bob Kontak]

Agree with McLovin. A 100k SC should not require new P&C's if it has been cared for but you need to look for things like new head bolts (ARP or Raceware) , chains, chain ramps, rocker re-grind and sleeves, clutch and PP to name a few. Suggest posting scan of engine rebuild in this thread so folks more knowledgeable than I may comment.

Appears it is a Euro SC from the black rubber thingies on the bumpers. That will shave a few thousand off the value (and resale) if so. Not that it is less of a car - just the facts. Look at the VIN/chassis number in the driver's door jamb. If there are a Z's in position 4. 5 &6 that will confirm it is a Non-us or Rest of World car

See that the standard upgrades have been installed:
Front oil cooler vs trombone (preferably Carrera type)
Pop off valve in air box
Chain tensioner upgrade
Rotary AC compressor vs. square looking York (assuming you have air)

Also be wary that the short shift kit, depending on the type, can add stress to the transmission. Do some research on this as there may be some good choices vs. not so good.

[McLovin]

Good eyes on the small bumperettes. Also, the side markers, rear taillights and the "blank out" plates on the front turn signals are "euro only" things. Very likely a non-US market car. The VIN number will tell for sure.

People have diff opinions on what affect that has on value. IMO, it generally doesn't help. Some people in the US would rather have a non-US version, but most SC buyers would prefer a US car, IMO.

[McLovin]

Some documentation on the importation of the car would be good, too. Cars run in Europe for a long time tend to get run hard, in tough weather. Also, it looks like a US speedometer in there, so at some point the speedo was changed. Makes the miles shown on it suspect.

[blloyd29]

Those are a lot of great points, I'm glad I took the time to post on here, when I meet the owner to see the car in person I will have a good list of things to check.

[tcar]

Originally Posted by McLovin

Some documentation on the importation of the car would be good, too. Cars run in Europe for a long time tend to get run hard, in tough weather. Also, it looks like a US speedometer in there, so at some point the speedo was changed. Makes the miles shown on it suspect.

If driven a lot in another country, say 100k kms, then a new US speedo is put in, you are missing about 60k miles on the odometer, if true.

I don't worry about Carrera tensioners on an SC too much, the factory tensioners are fine for a good many miles and the make a lot of noise before they fail. However, there's the mantra of "carrera tensioners" even here and people tend to de-value the car if they're not there.

Pop-off valve in the airbox, though, is a pretty necessary upgrade; cheap, too.

Chrome wheels will do OK for a good while in a dry climate if you're not into driving in the rain and snow. Chrome doesn't like magnesium.

I like the sound of the Bursch muffler and don't really consider it a 'downgrade'.

See what you can find out about the rebuild.

There are pelicans in WA, maybe someone could take a look for you.

Very nice looking car...

[N11Porsche]

Having had an SC, I think the Euro version is more desirable, with it's added horsepower. Also, although Bursch exhaust systems may cost less, in many cases they sound better. So it may not be because the previous owner did things "on the cheap".

Buy the SC if it checks out AND it's the car you want. I don't understand people that shy away from a car because they worry about how a modification effects it's resale. A car is not an investment so why worry about, if your going to be able to get every cent out of it, at resale.

Good luck with your purchase and enjoy the car you buy....

[fritzgator]

That looks like a Wiessach edition from the color combo.

[tcar]

Originally Posted by fritzgator

That looks like a Wiessach edition from the color combo.

Except the Weissach edition was '80 only.

Seal Gray is not a Weissach color.

When the interior piping was redone, it's similar to Weissach seats.

[brd]

I second N11Porsche big time.... the key is buying what you want to drive, not want to sell.

Funny.. I thought those silly sticky-out black bumber bits were a US thing... seems I was wrong.
Nothing that judicious use of an angle grinder wouldn't solve anyway... ho ho!!

After all the checks, verifications, and etc.... it comes down to the fact that you will be buying an old car... for the pleasure of driving and working on. We are all there.... some with more spannering than others. I actually had more to do on the 911T I bought than I expected, but am enjoying every minute as it is the only way I would REALLY get to know the car.... and be able to throw out anecdotes of how that dang second earth cable was missing on the speedo etc warble warble

Hopin' you get a good set of wheels!!
BRD

[Peter Zimmermann]

Post #5 this thread is very good! The car will (99% chance) be a gray market car. That means if you're in CA forget about registering it here! Don't consider the car further until you know that it can be registered where you live. The car should have a USA certification sticker on it somewhere; usually it will be on the left door jamb/post below the striker plate.

[Head416]

I don't get why people are talking about RoW as a bad thing. As far as I'm concerned, they're better - for an '81 SC it meant an extra 24 HP.

I have a RoW registered in CA, never had a problem. The gray market hassle was somebody else's problem before me.

[jwakil]

I bought an 83SC Euro with very similar colors, with 77 3.0 engine. I haven't driven a 83 US version but my mechanic says mine is faster. If you live in the south and want to have AC, you will need to upgrade the front oil cooler to a finned style with a fan, otherwise you are going to be overheating. That can get expensive. Check that the oil lines under the passenger door to the front cooler aren't crushed. As much as I like my car, I would consider switching to an 84-89 model. The CIS engine management has too many things that work independently and diagnosing poor engine performance problems is a nightmare. The 84+ models have timing and fuel injection automatically controlled, a lot less headache. If you are not a monkey wrench and will be taking the car to the shop anyways, probably won't make a difference.

[Packy]

Get a PPI, best money you could ever spend.

[tcar]

The ROW cars are more powerful than US cars.

Mostly higher compression ratio. (Need premium gas.)