Rust under Windshield

[lucittm]

I have the dreaded spot of rust on the driver's side lower corner of the windshield starting to peek out from under the seal. What is the preferred way of handling this other that to follow dump trucks and hope a rock breaks the glass for replacement of the windshield and seal under insurance.

I mean, can I stop the rust from progressing? I know there can be additional rust further up under the seal but for now I just want to stop the rust from extending out onto the hood and down to the front bumper...



Thanks,
Mark

[Justin@Athens]

I had the same problem. New glass ran me $500 installed. But it HAD to be replaced. I figure you should let it go until its time for a new windscreen. Especially if you park in the garage and try to avoid the rain. There is no good drainage for that area, and there is more significant rust under there trust me.

But overall, I think its not going to be something that isn't repairable when the time comes.

I'm interested to hear what other think though.

[Bob Kontak]

The rust has a lot of cowl to eat through to get to that hood. The hood does not have water trap issues so don't worry about that.

Do it right and buy a new seal. Pull the windshield (read posts on how to do it) and have a friend help you re-install - it is one of the easier jobs I had done on my 911. Read though, as you may have a windshield antenna that my 81 did not have in it.

That said get a dremmel and remove the rust and use Navel Jelly to kill what remains in the tiny pits. If you have a small compressor you can buy a little sand blasting kit to remove all the corrosion - don't forget to Visqueen the car off except for the exact spot you will be blasting. Don't listen to anybody telling you to media blast vs sand blasting. It's over-kill for a tiny repair.

Look in the paint/bodywork section for details on hole filling, spot primers and painting. You could even touch up the paint by hand in a pinch. However, silver metallic wont look so good by hand. Better to have a non metallic color if you are doing hand work.

I can tell you ways I would do it on the cheap but it will not be a complete job and the corrosion will continue where you can't see it (Under the seal where the water collected in the first place).

[Canada Kev]

Unlike your '81, I think perhaps the 964 windshield or parts of it may be glued in...?

[lucittm]

Yeah, I'm glued in so it is not a DIY project (I have no glue).

OK one vote for Naval Jelly. What about the conversion paint that turns the rust to some black kryptonite material then a touch up in metallic silver? Anybody know the Testor's paint number that matches Polar Silver Metallic Code number 92E?

Thanks,
Mark

[tharbert]

That's basically what Naval Jelly is... Phosphoric acid binds with the iron(III) oxide (rust) to create the chemically inert black ferric phosphate, FePO4 or your kryptonite.

[Bob Kontak]

Sorry about the wrong windshield info.

[dtxscott]

I'm not sure about your budget, but this can be fixed at a body shop for around $1k - $1.5k including seal.

This does not account for new glass

[super9064]

If you do want to DIY, then remove the windshield, grind out the rust. treat with "metal ready" or something like it, I would paint the area with POR, then prime and paint with a custom mixed rattle can.

Automotivetouchup.com Touch Up Paint, Aerosol Spray Paint and Paint Touch Up Accessories

[lucittm]

I ordered 1/2 oz. of their paint to see how close the match will be. Silver is hard to match.

Thanks,
Mark

[lindemans]

From my experience, the actual underlying rust problem is 5 to 10 times worse that what is now visible.

What you see are merely the edges of what is creaping along in the window flange. I would not even consider not taking the windscreen out: really do it.

Window can be reused if you act carefully. Since my windscreen had a small crack anyway, I decided to replace it for a 993 shield that gets glued in and the sealed all around.

[Dixie]

Judging from your photo, I bet rust has perforated the cowl panel under the seal. I second taking the car to a body shop. A very good body shop. One that can weld in a patch panel if need be. (Pelican may sell the patch panel. I have not checked.)

Rust is like cancer. The only way to be sure you've cured it is to cut it out.

[Les Paul]

I got my 76 25 years ago. It had a tiny bubble bottom left rear window. It grew to the size of a quarter till 5 years ago. I had a full resto and they took it to the bare metal. No real problem. Ground out to make sure.

So it may not be as bad as you imagine.

[Trackrash]

This was a common problem on the older, non galvanized, cars which all had seals that leaked.

On my '71 it had also rusted through the metal under the seal, which made a nasty mess under the dash. I had to remove the dash cover since it had started to rust under it. Of course welding in that area would have necessitated its removal anyway. Hopefully you have caught yours before that has happened.

Isn't your paint clear coated? If so most paint shops have rattle can clear.