Windshield Molding Sealant ????

Wally6 · 01-04-2002, 02:38 PM

Just had the windshield replaced in my 85' 911. The installer did not apply sealant between the glass/body and molding. Is sealant not required? If it is, what type/brand do I need to use?

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Nope, no sealant on my 78SC either.

On a related note, I will be replacing mine this weekend, using a seal without the trim groove. I know you can use twine in the grove and then position the window and seal at teh frame and pull the twine to place the frame into the seal. Question is, do you start pulling the seal onto the frame from the bottom or the top? I think I remember hearing something about cracking the windshield if you do it the wrong way.

Superman · 01-04-2002, 03:10 PM

My installer did use goop, but he applied it after the installation. It went under the exterior portion of the seal. No goop under the interior part of the seal, and no goop under the exterior part of the seal down by the cowl, since this is not where water would get in. The reason only the exterior parts were gooped is that this stops water BEFORE it gets into the car.

You can get "Glazing Compound" in a tube like bathtub sealant (silicone) so that it works in your 'goop gun.' It stays soft and is designed for this purpose.

radcon · radcon's Garage

When they installed the windshield in my '80 targa, they started with the rope at the center bottom of the windshield. Not sure if this is required, but it seemed to work very well for the installer. It's a good idea if you have someone GENTLY pushing on the area of the windshield corresponding to where the rope is being pulled. If the rope is pulled out of the channel without the rubber lip actually going over the frame, you will probably have to pull out the windshield, reinsert the rope and start over. It took us a couple tries before we got a system worked out.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by radcon
When they installed the windshield in my '80 targa, they started with the rope at the center bottom of the windshield. Not sure if this is required, but it seemed to work very well for the installer. It's a good idea if you have someone GENTLY pushing on the area of the windshield corresponding to where the rope is being pulled. If the rope is pulled out of the channel without the rubber lip actually going over the frame, you will probably have to pull out the windshield, reinsert the rope and start over. It took us a couple tries before we got a system worked out.

Exactly what I was trying to get out. But do you start at the bottom center of the windshield, or the top center?

radcon · radcon's Garage

Started pulling the rope from the bottom center

nhromyak · nhromyak's Garage

I did this in my '85. I had to start/end the NYLON rope pull at the right bottom, as that is where my integrated antenna is.

I don't think you will crack your windshield from the NYLON rope.

I was told, as the windshields get older, they get MORE brittle. Hence, extra care has to be taken when moving an older (2+ year) windshield.

I didn't use any sealant - no leaks.

Don't forget to mold the aluminum trim around the bare glass. This will provide a GREAT fit and finish on the aluminum trim.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Radcon, Thanks for posting again. I din't read your whole post the first time . . . the boss called.

dickster · 01-04-2002, 11:51 PM

i have done a couple of screen (not the '86 911 i have now but similar) and you put the bottom in place first that way the weight of the screen holds it there.

an assistant keeping light pressure on the outside of the screen to help it in.

my rubber was recently replaced by a reputable dealer using sealant. it must be an extra precaution.

front screen is pretty easy. remove vent trim (demister first). back screen in coupe is another matter. i'm not totally happy with that on mine, as the roof lining is not tight now.

good luck!

richard

Superman · 01-05-2002, 08:11 AM

It is my understanding that the factory specifies the use of sealant, but I do not have factory manuals.

Formerly Steve Wilkinson · 01-05-2002, 08:32 AM

Be very careful if you go to a bodyshop supply house and just ask for "windshield sealant." What that today means, since windshield rigidity is a key part of the passsenger-side airbag deploying correctly, is a kind of serious glue that will make an enormous mess of a pre-airbag 911 windshield.

What I got for my '83 SC--haven't used it yet--is a $15 can of 3M Windo-Weld Resealant. It can be cleaned up with general-purpose adhesive cleaner, though you wouldn't want to get any more on the paintwork than is necessary. It's designed to seal leaks and forms a rubbery, flexible seal.

I have a couple of small leaks--replaced the windshield myself, with a new gasket, when I restored the car--but indeed the window is intended to seal without sealant. As we all know, they often don't.

Stephan

KTL · 01-05-2002, 10:52 AM

You want to start at the bottom. With the overlap, this helps to make sure the seal gets started out right. When you're finished at the top, if the seal doesn't come out completely at the very end, you can get at it with something and pop it into place. Plus, wouldn't you hate to get the entire top and sides in place only to get down to the bottom, middle and not have the seal pop into place? Now you have to start over as the seal is hard to get to at the bottom.

Paul, let us know how the trimless seal turns out. Are you installing a 964/993 windshield?

Superman · 01-05-2002, 04:48 PM

3M Windo-Weld Resealant sounds liek fancy glazing compound, and it may be better than what I use. My caulking gun tube of the stuff just says "Glazing Compound." It stays soft, kind of rubbery.

It is indeed true that today's windshields are glued in, using some pretty aggressive glue. You'd sure want to stay away from that stuff.

critter · 01-05-2002, 08:46 PM

Absolutely stay away from "Urathane" sealant if you are putting in a roped in window (rubber around the perimeter) we used to use "liquid butal" to seal the rubber on these if there was leak problems or if the insurance company would only pay for cheap aftermarket rubber seal.I also recomend using a fairly thick rope(string) because if you use a thin twine it can cut thru the rubber if you hit a stubborn spot.It also helps to lube it up with some soapy water or silicone spray so the rubber slides a little better.

pbs911 · pbs911's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by KTL

Paul, let us know how the trimless seal turns out. Are you installing a 964/993 windshield?

KTL, I did this yesterday. The question has come up several times but no definitive answer. Does a trimless windshield seal fit in a window frame for a P-car that came with the seal requiring trim? Yes it does. However, I did put a newer windsheild in as well. Not sure of the year but it has the integrated antenna and the top is tinted. The seal around the fram is just as good as before, and it looks better without the trim IMHO.