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Flywheel bolts- starting to strip?

OK I have my engine out, I am going to change some seals to fix leaks. It is a 2.7. I am trying to get the flywheel off. I bought a cheap 12 point tool and I got one bolt off and it started to strip. So I bought a good snap-on one. Now I have 4 of 6 bolts off but the snap-on tool is stripping too.

It is the tool that is stripping here not really the bolts, what gives?? I DO NOT want to strip these bolts while it is attached. Any ideas of what to do ? not to do?

Please help
Frustrated Shawn

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Old 01-14-2002, 09:43 AM
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Be thankful it's the bit yielding! The Snap-On bits yield too; I've concluded that the combination of the engagement length and strength of the tool steel used in these bits is marginal for this application. I'm told the bits are a consumable item. If your bit has distorted or rounded carefully grind the end of the drive bit down to where it's sharp again. Do not overheat while grinding down or you'll soften and weaken the steel. Its important that when using these bits on a flywheel screw that you have a second person applying pressure to keep the bit firmly registered into the screw head ( to avoid "cam out" while the person on the wrench handle generates the loosening torque. Good luck! Jim
Old 01-14-2002, 10:15 AM
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One more comment and this is probably obvious but ensure that the sockets in the heads of the srews are complelty cleaned of any type of dirt or debris. One needs all possible engagement length between the screw head and the tool bit. Cheers, Jim
Old 01-14-2002, 10:23 AM
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All true. I expect you will get them out with the tool but try to also relax. In a worst case scenario, you can grind the heads off and then remove the flywheel. The bolts are pretty hard I suppose, but griding the heads off would free the flywheel and then you could easily remove the bolt shanks. So, this is not a disaster either way. The bolts are not reusable anyway.
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Old 01-14-2002, 10:30 AM
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Superman I think thats what I'll end up doing. GRINDING!

Jim thanks for the great tips, I had cleaned them and everything. I don't want to grind down the tool, that would no doubt void the warranty. I am going to exchange it and hope for the best. These suckers are on TIGHT. I know they are supposed to be 110 ft/lbs but these are tight!

As for grinding, I a m going to use my dremel so I can try not to wreck the flywheel, anyone sugest a good material to use for these?

PS We just got over a foot of snow here last night

Shawn
Grinding away in NB Canada
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Old 01-14-2002, 01:30 PM
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Shawn, do you have access to a an air impact wrench? I'm sure I'll here comments about this, but I bought my 12 point tip from Sears, put it in a socket that held it securly and all the flywheel bolts zipped right out!
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Old 01-14-2002, 01:34 PM
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Electric Impact?

In order to use air I would have to put the enine in my truck and bring it on Base, how about an electric Impact? But now I think the bolts are stipped too (at least partially)

Shawn
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Old 01-14-2002, 01:39 PM
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Sometimes when you have something like a flywheel or cylinder head, completely removing bolts will put more stress on the remaining ones making them even harder to get out. I'd try installing the removed bolts and then loosen the rest of them in a star pattern. One of those impact tools that you hit with a hammer might be just the ticket for these bolts.
-Chris
Old 01-14-2002, 01:48 PM
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if you plan to reuse the flywheel you could run the risk of warping the wheel if you grind them off...

loosening and tightening is suggested to be done ins stages with a star pattern for the flywheel and pressure plate to avoid warping

hopefully some numbnut didn't just use an impact wrench to install the old flywheel nuts

try lengthening the lever arm of the wrench (ie a pipe over the wrench handle)
Push hard perpendicular to the bolt as you turn to seat the bit as best you can...it is shallow though...

and use slow steady pressure...jerking it may put too much strain on the bit or the bolt...

hope it works out for you..

MJ
Old 01-14-2002, 01:52 PM
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Good idea Chris I'll try that before I cut
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Old 01-14-2002, 01:53 PM
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hallo
On this kind of bolts ,with high torque, you have to use a
6 Point bit. That is why all impact wrenches have 6 Points.
Harald
Old 01-14-2002, 02:02 PM
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Harald, 12 point refers to the type of bolt that is used on the flywheel. It is like an allen head bolt, but with star pattern that takes a special tool to fit. Shawn, I would try an electric impact before I would try grinding the heads off, after all, what do you have to lose?
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Old 01-14-2002, 02:34 PM
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Drill it out?

Ok here is my plan. I am going to try an electric impact. If that doesn't work how about using a center punch, then trying to drill it out? Or would I be safer or easier to use the dremel?

Shawn
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Old 01-14-2002, 04:31 PM
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Impact wrench is a good idea. Those impact drivers that you hit with a hammer might also work. Heck, banging on the back of the wrench head while turning could help too. Finally, if the inner surface were stripped, I'd still try and use a HUGE vise-grip on it. What the heck, eh?

Finally if grinding must happen, then yes, you can create too much heat, so you'd go slowly to avoid warping the flywheel. I'd use the Dremel-type tool rather than a classic grinder partly because of the heat issue mentioned above. I'd use a diamond cutting disk. Stop and pour part of your cold beer on it every minmute or so. Better yet, use a cup of cold water and put the beer where it belongs.
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Old 01-14-2002, 04:50 PM
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ok, here's the deal. get a big hammer. stand above the engine and give each stuck bolt head a big wack. maybe two. this usually breaks the grip of the threads. seriously folks! now grind the tool bit down until you get clean, undamaged threads. the bit is not warranteed anyways, you clean it up as needed, then replace just the bit when it wears out. keep the bit perfectly straight into the bolt as you apply pressure. if it gets on an angle, it will strip. worst case, drilling the head off is way easier than grinding.
goes back to the good old days when loosening up old vw bus lug bolts that wouldn't move for anything.
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Old 01-14-2002, 05:08 PM
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A dremel???

You're gonna be there all night!

A drill or die grinder would be better. A Dremel is too small.

I'd try drilling, like JWW says.
Old 01-14-2002, 06:42 PM
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Heat is your friend.... try heating the bolt head with a small hand held butane torch. That is what saved me on my flywheel bolts..

Chris
Old 01-14-2002, 08:25 PM
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The electric impact might be the answer since you are able to apply more direct "seating" force to the bit. With a ratchet you are applying force to the handle to turn the bit and are relying on the "bite" of the bit to hold it securely in the bolt head. the impact also applies "little hammer blows" (best way I can put it) to the bolt working it loose. Althlugh bolts are much smaller on the flywheel this worked well for me the first time I removed the transmission drain plug on my 944 after an over zealous PO decided to gorilla the plug into place. Good luck!
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Old 01-14-2002, 09:30 PM
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i am usually working on newer Engine and they have the Starbolts
too,on the older i thought they were the normal Type.
The stars are 12 millimeter normally,make sure it is a metrictool
not a standardsize what will only almost fit.
If you have to cut it ,i would drill it out with a 14 mm drill .
Harald
Old 01-15-2002, 12:44 AM
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Thanks again for all the great ideas. I am going to follow JWW notes

Quote:
stand above the engine and give each stuck bolt head a big wack. maybe two. this usually breaks the grip of the threads.
Quote:
now grind the tool bit down until you get clean, undamaged threads.
Quote:
keep the bit perfectly straight into the bolt as you apply pressure. if it gets on an angle, it will strip.
Then if that doesn't work I am going to junk my engine and put in a 3.6

I'll let you know what happens

Shawn

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Old 01-15-2002, 03:33 AM
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