WUR and CIS tweek - no rebuild required

[kach22i]

It is a bit early to tell for sure, but I think I figured out a backyard/redneck method for getting more life out of your old WUR (Warm Up Regulator). I was in the process of changing out some old oil breather hoses, CIS lines and the abandoned rear heater blower bracket, and it was all done as part of this maintenance package.

I've read that the WUR is not much more than a wound spring. I figure like any spring it benefits from lubrication to prevent binding and or breaking. I removed the WUR (electrical connections needed cleaning too) and sprayed a can of PB Blaster into all of the openings. I filled up the WUR and let it sit for about four hours while I did other work, ate lunch and made a parts run.

I then got a small jar and emptied the liquid PB Blaster from the WUR into the jar. I shook and shook and taped it on to some paper towel to insure every last drop was out.

Then I went to a gas station with a air compressor (this one had a trigger handle) and sprayed air into all of the openings. I could see a little bubbling coming out around the outside base of the electrical connection, and maybe inside too. I went home and used contact cleaner to clean the outside casing and applied some gasket sealer which comes a small toothpaste-like tube around the base of the connection.

So we have several things going on here:

1. Lubed WUR with PB Blaster soaking

2. Sealed possible air leak in WUR electrical connection

3. Replaced small diameter hoses with new ones, old ones slipped off way to easily and may not have been air-tight.

4. Cracked/failed epoxy discovered while removing tube from the part with the flipped plug (see yellow part in last diagram)

I removed the large oil breather tubes to measure and order new ones, I replaced all the small ones today.

Results:
The car started right up, idle shot up to 1,200 rpm (was set to 980 rpm) and stayed there without stalling.

Before:
What was happening before is the car would start after five or ten minutes of trying, stall every time I took my foot off the gas until warmed up fully.

QUESTION:
I have one connection (was soiled/tarnished) which I may have flipped while cleaning and when reversing the mounting orientation. Does it matter which way this connection is plugged in?

Starting Fluid Method:
With fire extinguisher in hand, several times over the few years I've sprayed starting fluid on/near all of my CIS and hose connections. The engine never ran faster to indicate a air leak.










What is the part colored yellow anyway?

What does it do?

[boyt911sc]

The yellow thing shown in your picture is called TV (thermo valve). What it does is open a valve (for vacuum) after a delayed action of approx. 25 to 30 seconds to the WUR. The electrical connection is the power supply for the heater inside the TV. BTW, have you inspected the bi-metallic spring inside the WUR? The spring works by means of thermal expansion. The difference in the coefficient of thermal expansion between the two (2) metals (springs) causes the deflection.



Tony

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

The yellow thing is called TV (thermo valve). ................... have you inspected the bi-metallic spring inside the WUR?

Tony, on the thermo valve, can the electrical connection be flipped without messing things up?

I did not open up the WUR, did not have the proper gaskets/seals on hand, plus I don't know how to recalibrate it. I also don't have the $300 required to have it rebuilt by others.

My TV had an old epoxy repair which failed when I pulled out the center/middle located hose - plastic nub/straw came out with it. I used a two-part plastic epoxy to redo the seal.

[boyt911sc]

Originally Posted by kach22i

Tony, on the thermo valve, can the electrical connection be flipped without messing things up?
I did not open up the WUR, did not have the proper gaskets/seals on hand, plus I don't know how to recalibrate it. I also don't have the $300 required to have it rebuilt by others.

My TV had an old epoxy repair which failed when I pulled out the center/middle located hose - plastic nub/straw came out with it. I used a two-part plastic epoxy to redo the seal.

kach,

The electrical terminals for the TV could be plugged either way. A simple test could be done using a 12-volt to verify if the valve is opening/closing. The valve is normally closed. Blow some air (by mouth) and feel if any air goes thru. There should be none at this point. However, if you apply 12-volts to the terminals, the valve should be opened after approx. 30 seconds the heater was activated. If the valve has opened, air should be able to flow thru and you could feel it.

BTW, what's the number on your WUR? Do you have the -033?
Tony

[kach22i]

Originally Posted by boyt911sc

BTW, what's the number on your WUR? Do you have the -033?

When I zoom in on the photo it looks like 343 (edit-1: oops wrong), will check again when it's light out. EDIT-2: it is 848 not 343

I will have to do this test, not quite sure how to get 12V to it and still be able to blow on it.

A straw and a lantern battery with some wire leads?

EDIT-3:
It still takes a couple of minutes to start (less than half the time of before), but I'm due for a tune-up and valve adjustment which always helps. However the fact that the car will now idle on it's own (1100 rpm) when cold without pumping/playing the gas pedal is a huge improvement.