Power Window woes, Viper Alarm

[Nazgul280]

Hi everybody,

I have an 88 Targa with a Viper Alarm installed by PO. A few weeks ago my driver's electric window stopped working after a few intermittent times where it didn't work until the 2nd or 3rd attempt with the driver's window switch.

Here's what I did to troubleshoot (have the Bently and 101 Projects books):

-Checked the fuse in driver's side fusebox in luggage.

-Swapped switches on driver's door. Result: passenger still works, no driver window. This leads me to believe it is not a switch problem. (most of the posts in my search are geared toward the switch going bad in these cars)

-I can hear the relay clicking once each actuation, but it was not coming from behind the temp gauge as the picture in the Bently shows. Result: removed temp gauge and found no relays present as per 86-89 location in the Bently manual.

-I had my wife operate the switch on the door while I listened for the click and found a black box (presumably by the Viper installers) behind the cardboard cover on the passenger side of the luggage compartment behind the dash. Result: I unplugged the connector, cleaned them with contact cleaner, and tested the door with the plug unconnected. Result: no relay noise, so I've found the relay.

-plugged in the connector to the black box. Result: same problem. No window movement but a click from the relay box. My hopes of just a dirty connection dashed.

-I haven't checked anything with a multimeter.

-I think the window motor is stuck, motor bad, or window/regulator is jammed, but I haven't taken the entire door interior off yet to check power to the motor. I'm hesitant to do this until I have exhausted other wiring options outside the door.

-Wiring coming from the door to the fender looks in great condition, with insulation and clamps holding it in place.

What do you guys think? Check power to motor next?

[RoninLB]

you might have a connector for the motor that's dirty?

I'd jump the motor anyway to see what happens because i never liked the wiring and voltage drop going to it

there are a few things inside the door to foul up but easily identifiable once you get in there

[Nazgul280]

RoninLB, I'll get into the door Thursday and post what I find. I'm hoping it's a connector that needs to be cleaned.

[Nazgul280]

OK, I removed the 6 bolts that keep the regulator in place, then spent at least 1 hour trying to pivot it so the motor drops enough to show through the round hole below to give me access to the 3 bolts holding it to the regulator, and I couldn't get it in position.

There are heavy speaker wires going to and fro due to the viper alarm and a black box for the speakers (looks like a power distributor). I'm not sure if the wires are keeping the motor from dropping, but I think they are.

I'm taking a break and perhaps I will build up the fortitude to try it again.

At this point I don't know what to do.

[RoninLB]

its been awhile so memory isn't great


usual routine when working on the lift regulator is to start with glass at least 1/2 way down

I'm not sure how far you've proceeded but before closing it up grease up as many friction points as possible. If any areas you can't get grease into try using motorcycle chain lube that comes in a spray can

hand slam the sheet metal and fix any rattles

solder any wires you may have cut

glass front or rear top may have to be adjusted for gap

I used some Dynamat sound deadener on door skin to prevent that tin can sound when closing the door. I also used a hair dryer after install to make sure the glue attached to the door

[RG5]

For what its worth, I got so tired of my crappy alarm system installed by a PO, that I ripped it out and threw it in the bin. Engine bay siren *gone*, central locking *gone*, now the alarm is only an immobiliser.

I will never knowingly install an alarm in a car again, the installlers make a real mess of a nice car.

RG5

[Nazgul280]

OK, I had the door stripped for a couple of weeks just sitting there until this past Saturday morning I got sick of seeing it like that, so I grabbed a hammer and tapped on the motor while operating the electric window switch and it started to move!

It worked, but got stuck a lot. I had to keep releasing the switch over and over as the motor only operated the window an inch at a time once it got half-way down.

I noticed the window track one side had a plastic slide that went up and down a channel that looked like it needed some grease. I cleaned out the old dirty grease and put in a liberal amount of white lithium grease and the window has worked fine ever since!

So, the door got two new window switches since I had them off, but that's all it cost me.

The only thing I have to go back and do is to see why my door release latch next to the storage pocket now sticks and doesn't return to the rest position when I open the door. Perhaps it is rubbing against something??

Thanks guys for your assistance and advice! I just hope the motor holds out for a long time to come because I don't want to go through this all over again.

-Dana

[dshepp806]

Better check for any worn, replaceable parts......

Doyle

[Joe Bob]

Lose the alarm, too....

[Nazgul280]

Losing the alarm will just open a can of worms and probably screw things up. This is the first car I've owned with a Viper system, and let me tell you the wires run everywhere and they have invaded every system on the car. In short, to get rid of it will be a daunting task of taking the interior out, reinstalling factory relays, re-wiring the electric doors and windows, probably the starting system, and removing contact switches that sense a break-in to the doors, bonnet and boot: so the answer is let sleeping dogs lye.