Glue the inside of the Neatrix bushings. Do not lube the outside. To install, get longer bolts than the spring plate bolts. Assemble everything. Place the bushings right outside the torsion bar tube. Thread the longer bolts in and "walk" the bushing into place a little at a time by tightening each bolt a little at a time. When it fully seats, pull the bolts out, and properly install the correct bolts.

I am replacing the seal around the oil level sender. It is a cork gasket. Does anybody know if I should coat the gasket with anything or just put it on dry?

I am a Curil-T guy myself, but that was always paper. If it were me, I would apply a sealant to go with a gasket. I don't believe there would be a downside to using a good quality sealant.

Milestone reached!! Suspension is back on! (not aligned, corner balanced and still need to torque a couple bolts, but it is on.) I may actually have it on the road by next June, as currently planned. :D

Greg - I'm finally done with your tools. SmileWavy

You must have been hustling to get it all back together this quickly. I got your PM, will respond.

Also, I had pretty good results with a home string alignment for toe, not sure if you considered trying. I was only really focused on the front suspension, so camber and caster are not adjustable. I guess that would be true of the back too. Anyway, it's not difficult, just a little time consuming.

Camber, caster, and toe are all adjustable on the front suspension. Camber and toe are both adjustable on the rear suspension (though changing one will affect the other quite a bit more on the rear than on the front). Caster does not exist for the rear since the rear wheels do not steer.

I am not sure what you meant by your comment.

I didn't disturb the front top strut mounts so camber and caster should be pretty close there. I did some rough measurements for front toe and set the rear to the middle of each adjustment. I was going to try the home alignment but I think I will just limp or tow it to a shop with the proper tools.

I grow weary of this project and just want to get driving again. :( Still much to do. I'm planning 2 or 3 five-day marathons between now and June. I seem to get a good bit done when I can string together several days.

Nobody caught it back in post #77

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321833597.jpg

Anyone see the mistake?

The nut/bolts holding the backing plate on are in backwards. Causes clearance issues with the brake disk. Fixed now.

Shoot. I pitched those when I rebuilt my suspension.

Hey Flieger,

I think "Caster does not exist" is not correct statement. Caster should be there, some number, but it is not adjustable...

My 2c..
-Y.

My understanding is that caster is the difference in angle between the line perpendicular to ground, through the axle and the axis of steering rotation. Caster is what causes the steering to center itself. Because the rear does not have a steering rotation there is no caster.

Right?

Every car should have a front and rear Caster, for front moving stability, otherwise it would be as "rear wheel" of the shopping cart wiggle around...

It could be NOT adjustable due to the fact that it set at the Factory (build into design) and its enough for particular model of the car to operate... some cars have front Caster not adjustable...


-Y.

There is no caster on a wheel that does not steer because the definition of caster involves a steering axis. There is still toe and camber on the rear, though.

I don't use the dust shields either. :)

I may have spoke too soon on the camber, but how do you adjust caster with a stock strut mount?

Camber and caster are set by the location of the top strut mount. Left/right for camber, fore/aft for the caster.

Found this....

Alignment of Porsche 911

Ok, I stand corrected. I didn't remove my strut mounts, thought they were in a fixed position.

I just read through this whole instruction set. Thinking I will give it a shot after the car is whole again.

I am bound and determined to get this thing done by mid summer 2012!! I was feeling pretty good about getting the rust taken care of and completing the suspension upgrade, so I had to do something to remind me that I am far from reassembly time.

Out with the interior!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322707004.jpg

Took out the last piece of glass, too..the rear window. I found a little rust but nothing a wire wheel and POR-15 won't fix.

Sounds good. The important part is to keep forward momentum and you should easily reach your goal. Let me know if you need any help.

It has been a bit since my last update. I took time out for the holidays and to build an game room in 1/2 of our basement. It came out nice but took a lot longer than I had planned. Other thing got in the way too so I haven't done much.

I did rehang the passenger door and prepped the part of the rear quarter panel I removed I'll get that welded bake in soon the switch to the other side.

I had a little time today so started on removing the insulation on the driver's side floor. I found three suggested methods to remove this stuff and I tried them all.

Using a pneumatic scalier worked but it was slow, loud and made lots of tiny bits. I then tried a multi tool (the one with the flat blade that cycles back and forth very quickly. That worked better but required a good bit of pressure to keep it under the insulation and the chunks it lifted were larger but still not what I had hoped. Finally, using a heat gun and a couple putty knives and I was able to scrape large sections very quickly. 45 minutes later and I had removed all the insulation on the driver's side.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1330299194.jpg

Good work!!

I have one question: The project is a 78 SC, right. How come it has so much rust when the body is supposed to be completely galvanized. Not good enough protection against road salt???

Galvanisation can get chips/scratches where water can enter and the metal corrodes beneath it. This is harder to do with hot galvanizing like SCs had, but the sacrificial zinc coating will get used up eventually even without scratches.

And with a 78 you can expect that much rust? It seems then that galvanization as rust protection after all these years is pretty much irrelevant. When do galavanized bodies start to rust?

A lot of the rust I found was in areas that trap dirt and water. If the car was a beach car or driven on salted roads in the winter, that old accelerate things. I know most of its history was in the Carolinas. But, this car is an RoW and I don't the country it was delivered in. May have seen some serious winters.

Saved a bunch on shipping with a trip to Hershey yesterday.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1335131321.jpg

Two solid front fenders, a very nice fiberglass wing and a beautifully powder coated, never used Das Sport bolt in with seat brace. SmileWavy

Got to this thread kind of late but it looks like a fun project. sweet Hershey finds!

Quick update to say that nothing is happening in the garage. Lots of back breaking labor going on in the front yard - a total landscape rebuild project.

I've adjusted my project schedule to reflect my current view of reality and I'm looking at paint in July and completion in January 2013. I'm sure that will change.

I've made a deal with the family. I'm going to do a 5-day marathon again this Memorial day weekend (Friday thru Tuesday).

I hope to finish all the welding on the body panels, strip the interior and fabricate lower seat mounts. We'll see..... SmileWavy

Got into it a bit this weekend.

Set up the open air garage...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339364726.jpg

Removed the rest of the soundproofing on the floor, pulled the e-brake handle, etc

and started removing the seat rails. Starting with drilling out 36 spot welds on the inner driver's side...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339364863.jpg

Also got the peddles out and disassembled....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339364913.jpg

A little time in the blast cabinet...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339364952.jpg

but this will need to be replaced. It also explains the behavior of the bake pedal...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1339365030.jpg

overall not too bad a weekend.

Finished the driver's seat mount last weekend.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342994309.jpg

This weekend, I started to strip and paint. Got both rear quarter panels done.

3 layers of paint and primer! Ugh!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342994352.jpg

All clean!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342994401.jpg

And done!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1342994430.jpg

Nice work Glenn !!!

Glenn - I hope the plastic fuel lines are out of that tunnel as many have been melted by welding there!

They were/are and new ones are sitting on the shelf. SmileWavy

Excellent! Hope you pulled a couple cables through when you pulled the old lines, will make it a LOT easier getting the new lines in. Even with the cables taped on they still hung up on me a couple times, don't know why they didn't simply run two tubes from front to rear, would make it a lot easier.

Yep, did that too. Well, just string for now. I use the string to pull something stronger through before I attempt to pull the new lines in.

Glenn,
Are there any reason why you weld under seat support vs just use a brackets attached to original holes? I have brackets made by PO.
Txs,-Y.

Yes. I needed a configuration that would give me at least 2" additional headroom and allow the use of both the stock seat and a Corbeau bucket.

For the stock seat, the stock mounts stick out too far to get the seat lower. The Corbeau is too wide to go as low as I need with the stock mounts in place even with a custome bracket. I practically need the Corbeau to bolt to the floor.

Does that make sense?

yep, perfect sense, thank you, -Y.