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Glue the inside of the Neatrix bushings. Do not lube the outside. To install, get longer bolts than the spring plate bolts. Assemble everything. Place the bushings right outside the torsion bar tube. Thread the longer bolts in and "walk" the bushing into place a little at a time by tightening each bolt a little at a time. When it fully seats, pull the bolts out, and properly install the correct bolts.
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I am replacing the seal around the oil level sender. It is a cork gasket. Does anybody know if I should coat the gasket with anything or just put it on dry?
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Milestone reached!! Suspension is back on! (not aligned, corner balanced and still need to torque a couple bolts, but it is on.) I may actually have it on the road by next June, as currently planned. :D
Greg - I'm finally done with your tools. SmileWavy |
You must have been hustling to get it all back together this quickly. I got your PM, will respond.
Also, I had pretty good results with a home string alignment for toe, not sure if you considered trying. I was only really focused on the front suspension, so camber and caster are not adjustable. I guess that would be true of the back too. Anyway, it's not difficult, just a little time consuming. |
Camber, caster, and toe are all adjustable on the front suspension. Camber and toe are both adjustable on the rear suspension (though changing one will affect the other quite a bit more on the rear than on the front). Caster does not exist for the rear since the rear wheels do not steer.
I am not sure what you meant by your comment. |
I didn't disturb the front top strut mounts so camber and caster should be pretty close there. I did some rough measurements for front toe and set the rear to the middle of each adjustment. I was going to try the home alignment but I think I will just limp or tow it to a shop with the proper tools.
I grow weary of this project and just want to get driving again. :( Still much to do. I'm planning 2 or 3 five-day marathons between now and June. I seem to get a good bit done when I can string together several days. |
Nobody caught it back in post #77
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1321833597.jpg Anyone see the mistake? The nut/bolts holding the backing plate on are in backwards. Causes clearance issues with the brake disk. Fixed now. |
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I think "Caster does not exist" is not correct statement. Caster should be there, some number, but it is not adjustable... My 2c.. -Y. |
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Right? |
Every car should have a front and rear Caster, for front moving stability, otherwise it would be as "rear wheel" of the shopping cart wiggle around...
It could be NOT adjustable due to the fact that it set at the Factory (build into design) and its enough for particular model of the car to operate... some cars have front Caster not adjustable... -Y. |
There is no caster on a wheel that does not steer because the definition of caster involves a steering axis. There is still toe and camber on the rear, though.
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I don't use the dust shields either. :)
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I may have spoke too soon on the camber, but how do you adjust caster with a stock strut mount?
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Ok, I stand corrected. I didn't remove my strut mounts, thought they were in a fixed position.
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I am bound and determined to get this thing done by mid summer 2012!! I was feeling pretty good about getting the rust taken care of and completing the suspension upgrade, so I had to do something to remind me that I am far from reassembly time.
Out with the interior! http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1322707004.jpg Took out the last piece of glass, too..the rear window. I found a little rust but nothing a wire wheel and POR-15 won't fix. |
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