Ignition timing: how to adjust advances other than 5deg ?

prebordao · 08-17-2010, 12:42 AM

I know this is a newbie thing but... to adjust timing, the 5 deg are marked on the pulley, but what about other settings, like for 2k, 4k, 6k rpm ?

How to mark them on the pulley ?

prebordao · 08-17-2010, 03:34 AM

bump

Flat6pac · 08-17-2010, 03:50 AM

Your pulley should have a 30 and a 35 degree mark further to the right for the 6000 rpm advance. You should be most of full advance by about 4500 rpm.
Vacuum pod, if in use, is a retard of the spark for emissions.
Bruce

Shoepop · 08-17-2010, 06:48 AM

If your running a stock distributer it will have a centrifugal advance and you don't adjust anything other than initial if it's functioning correctly . Set the initial @ idle per manual then with your timing light rev the engine and you will see it advance to marks per Flat6pac, like he stated you should see full advance 30+ by 4500. put some white out or white paint on the pulley notches to make easy to see.

prebordao · 08-17-2010, 06:53 AM

Thanks for the tip. I have "hesitation" issues around 2-3K, that's why I want to check the advance, at those intermediate values, against the graph on the workshop manual.

Shoepop · 08-17-2010, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by prebordao

Thanks for the tip. I have "hesitation" issues around 2-3K, that's why I want to check the advance, at those intermediate values, against the graph on the workshop manual.

You CAN take a degree wheel and mark your pully and check every value/rpm but a waste in my .02. When hooked up you will see a nice linear curve to full advance if distrib working ok. You can also get one of the timing lights with an adjustable knob like from Sears that will tell you where your at advance wise at any RPM. You didn't mention what fuel system you have on your car, may be a fuel distribution issue.

scarceller · scarceller's Garage

Find a printable degree wheel like this one Degree Wheel Download then resize it to be same size as the pulley. Print it on heavy white paper, cut it then silicone it to the pulley with few drops of RTV. Now you have what you need.

prebordao · 08-17-2010, 07:11 AM

I just intend to check at idle, 2k, 3k and 6k. that'll be enough.

my car has cis and almost everything in it has been checked already, except the FD.

RoninLB · 08-17-2010, 08:59 AM

do you have the distributor vacuum retard canister hose attached ?

prebordao · 08-17-2010, 09:01 AM

Yes i have.

Flat6pac · 08-17-2010, 09:25 AM

What I have found in the past is the counterbalancers hang up slightly. Very effective is WD40 by the gallon into a jar big enough to hold the dist. and soak the dist. over night, lubricate with a good thin oil.
pull the pod and inspection oval before you dip the dist. and then you can see everything working after you dip it, lube it, install.
Bruce

gtc · gtc's Garage

I bought the Equus 3568 Innova Digital Timing Light from a famous online retailer when I was helping tune a friend's 914 with a carb conversion. It was well worth the $65 cost.
We had tried printing out a template and making new timing marks, but it was still very difficult to see them. With an adjustable timing light you can time the engine to any mark on the pulley.
Edit: Good suggestion above from Bruce.

prebordao · 10:32 AM

I do suspect / hope that the counterbalancers might be sticking.

Regarding the pulley markings, I have the following ones (see sketch below).

According to the factory sticker, one of them is Z1, but what about the others ???

James Brown · James Brown's Garage

Z1, 5, 30 and the others are for valve timing (120)

Flat6pac · 08-17-2010, 12:59 PM

The one to the left is FE which is used to set the mechanical fuel injection to the cam shaft.
The one furthest to the right will be 35 BTDC
Bruce

Trackrash · Trackrash's Garage

With the motor off, pull the cap and check the operation of the advance. Turn the rotor (gently) and it should move and spring back. You can see the weights moving at that time. The center of the shaft, with the rotor removed, has a place to add oil for the advance mechanism.

RoninLB · 08-17-2010, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RoninLB

do you have the distributor vacuum retard canister hose attached ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by prebordao

Yes i have.

if we assume the dizzy weights aren't hanging up why don't you try removing the vacuum retard dizzy hose and plug it. The vacuum retard is a smog device

set total timing to 35 and let initial fall to whatever it may be

prebordao · 08-18-2010, 12:33 AM

I might try that. I'm waiting for the weekend to check the advance and see where it stands.

Pazuzu · 08-18-2010, 06:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gtc

I bought the Equus 3568 Innova Digital Timing Light from a famous online retailer when I was helping tune a friend's 914 with a carb conversion. It was well worth the $65 cost.
We had tried printing out a template and making new timing marks, but it was still very difficult to see them. With an adjustable timing light you can time the engine to any mark on the pulley.
Edit: Good suggestion above from Bruce.

I have to second this! I got my Equus 3568 a few weeks ago (also from the unnamed online source, but I found that many brick and mortar flaps have it for around $100-110).

It's very nice dialing in an exact advance, having an accurate RPM reading right in front of you, and being able to run the engine to any speed, and find the actual current advance (scroll through increasing advance until you're lined up with tdc again, and read what you're at). It's also really nice knowing that you only have to keep track of one pulley mark no matter what (give it a kick of white paint and it's easy to see timing even while concentrating on the gun readout).

rusnak · 08-18-2010, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pazuzu

I have to second this! I got my Equus 3568 a few weeks ago (also from the unnamed online source, but I found that many brick and mortar flaps have it for around $100-110).

It's very nice dialing in an exact advance, having an accurate RPM reading right in front of you, and being able to run the engine to any speed, and find the actual current advance (scroll through increasing advance until you're lined up with tdc again, and read what you're at). It's also really nice knowing that you only have to keep track of one pulley mark no matter what (give it a kick of white paint and it's easy to see timing even while concentrating on the gun readout).

How do you dial in the degree advance? I see it has degreee atdc but is the a mode button to switch to btdc?