whoops, that was suppost to be fingure, not figures, see I can't even type right after that bite from the CDI :-)

man I can't type, suppose

There is a little edit button for posts you make that allows you to fix mis-spellings.

Congrats on the find.

OK, I read and saw what happened, but did anyone explain the Bottom Picture of the "TEST Port? I also have one and wondered what it was for or how it is used?

Thanks for posting the info on Innovate. I use their Data Logger on the Land Speed Motorcycle but never thought about looking at the Car.

Good point - we talked about it only The green and white wire connected to one of the three pins is the test lead for the dwell meter test. Connect positive from dwell meter (alligator clip) to the pin and ground the other alligator clip.

Switch to 4 cylinder dwell or double the 8 cylinder dwell readings and read what your frequency valve is doing.

There are plenty of posts on reading the dwell meter once connected so I won't go into depth on that topic.

Well, now I have another stinking problem. I am hoping it is the new fuel filter, but I drove the car down the road about 6 blocks, and when I got back the rpms came up to about 2k, and I backed into the front yard as quickly as I could, pushed the clutch back in, rpms dropped, and then the car died.
I let it sit for about 30 minutes, and it started for a second, and died. I think I may have gotten a bad fuel filter or something. It ran for over an hour before this happened, but it is the only thing I can think of, and it is the only new part. I hate this car. Everytime I get my hopes up, I get shot down, or the S**T zapped out of me. The things you do for your friends, and their kids.

Did you bleed the CIS system after you replaced the filter?

no, but it ran for over an hour just idling and me playing with the throttle. If it needed bled, I would have though it would not have started, but maybe you are right.

No, if it ran for an hour, bleeding is not an issue.

Bleeding CIS is a myth ........
 

Porscheman,

Bleeding a CIS is a myth. What ever gas/air trapped in the fuel lines will be purged out by the fuel which is an imcompressible liquid. This 'bleeding process' maybe needed in low pressure (3 - 4 psi) carburated system but not in a CIS that has 70 psi plus fuel pressure.

Have you checked if the FV (frequency valve) is working? What kind of CDI is installed in the car? It is a shame you don't have a fuel pressure gauge to hook up because it would help in the diagnostic. Next time you get the engine to start, let it idle until it get warmed up and remove the oil filler cap. Have you done this test? What's the problem you're having now?

Would any Pelican close by that has a set of fuel pressure gauge lend it to Porscheman? I will guarantee that it is returned or re-imburse the $75 default cost. I believe he could fix the problem once he gets the fuel pressure readings.

Tony

I did get a chance to remove the cap, and the Idle dropped. That was right before the car died. I am going to put the old fuel filter back on, I just have to stop for a few hour to machine out some parts for a customer.

Tony,
The thread I posted where the guy bypassed (jumpered) the O2 relay had symptoms where car would run fine then nearly die. I think you posted in that thread. Ended up that the nine or 12 pin connector on the engine bay firewall was corroded and when the outside temp was real hot the freq valve connection would break. PMan912 could have that sort of problem. Intermittent frequency valve operation. When working runs ok. When not it barely runs.

Pman912 could live in Phonix or right down the street from me in Akron. Don't know

PMan912 - Grab hold of the frequency valve with the engine not running. It is behind the engine on the drivers side. About the size of a standard prescription bottle. Turn the key on but do not start. Lift the air sensor a little bit for a second. You should hear buzzing and feel vibration in the frequency valve. When you car runs like crap do the exact same test and see if the buzzing still happens. If it does not buzz then you have a connection break in the system. That is pretty easy to fix.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1286328455.jpg

Good omen.........
 

Porscheman,

Do you recall more or less what was the idle speed (RPM) when you removed the oil filler cap? The idle speed going down (reduced) is a good indication that you don't have a significant air leak to worry at this point. So focus on other things like what Bob K suggested earlier. This is a process of elimination.

How easy to start the car from cold condition? Could you try to start the car first thing in the morning? Please let us know how many attempts before it finally get to run and idle smoothly.

If we have readings for the control and system fuel pressures, you could easily disregard the fuel filter contributing to this problem. Since you have a new filter, use it and don't put the old one back!!!!

BTW, where are you located? Some members reading and following this post might be able to help you with the pressure gauge. Keep up with the good work!!!!

Tony

Ok, now that I have made some money machining, I am back on this beast. I am North of Portland, OR, for anyone close, actually in Washougal, the guy with all of the Porsches in town, can't miss my house.
Anyways, car does not want to start when cold at all. It will start rev to 2k, drop to 6, and die in about 2 seconds. It usually takes about 4 or 5 tries, but not today. I switched out the old filter, and it is at least trying to start. I did find a 2 prong plug, that is flat with round connectors side by side today. I have no clue when that goes, I could not find anything like that on the 81, which is apart due to rebuilding the engine.
One other thing that happened trying to start, the starter quit working for awhile. you could hear a relay, but not the starter.

Ok, if the high freq valve is the thing that looks like an in-line injector, it is going nuts.

That plug has a brown wire, and a red wire with a white stripe. Anyone know what this is for?

Frequency valve looks like a modern injector. Good it is working.

Where is the two pronged plug?

Yesterday the car idled ok for around an hour then you took it up the street several blocks and it crapped out. Would start but died. How did it run before it went to hell during driving? Did it seem ok?

Wire you are looking at may be the RW defroster wire. Colors are different on my 81 but may be the culprit.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1286500714.jpg

Check the fuel pump relay in the front trunk. Second from the firewall. Move it around. It may have come loose while you were driving.

Bob, that is what the plug looks like, it is the female part.
Ok, when I drove the car you could really feel it was lacking power, but not popping. The fuel gauge does not work in this car, and the owner told me he filled it, but now I am not sure, and going to get some more gas, and see if that would help. I did spin all fuses, and for some reason, the fuel pump relay has a prong cut out of it. I could hear the fuel pump. Now, I do no, from my daughters go-kart, as I run them with gas when we are done racing, due to Methonal, that they will rev a bit before they die, because of going very lean, and with what the car did when I got back I am now wondering. I will let you know in a few minutes about the gas thing.