Got it started tonight after putting 4 gal of gas in it. I had to hold the throttle alittle to keep it running, to much, it would pop, not enough, it would die. At least it started again, so here we go.

Back to square one.......
 

Porscheman,

A good CIS fuel pressure gauge kit from JC Whitney costs just about $60 these days. And I bought one almost 2 decades ago and still working well. This is a very cheap tool and should be easy to borrow. If you want to do the troubleshooting for this car, you really need one.

You could not effectively do a good troubleshooting job in a fuel injection system without this pressure gauge!!!!Unless you get lucky. If you had this gauge installed during the testing period, you would have saved a lot of your time and aggravation.

As of today, you have no idea what's the control and system fuel pressures. Nor have any idea how the WUR is performing. Even after verifying the FV is working, you still have no idea what the fuel pressures are. We are now on page 4 and still no where close to finding the problem.

I really want you to succeed and fix the problem but you have to be realistic!!!! You need help and one good source of help is using the correct tool/s. At this time, you (we) still have no clue of the problem.

Tony

Your symptoms sound exactly like mine did yesterday when I forgot to put the AAR hose back on my car when checking it out. I could keep it alive with the sensor plate. When you went on the drive, a hose may have popped off. Check all of the fat air hoses on the passenger side - oil breather lines too Also check the brake booster hose on the driver's side that ties into the big 1/2" brass tube assembly. You can't see where it ties in. Reach behind black plastic part of the assembly and it comes in at an angle.

I think the current issue is something minor but fatal to the engine running.

You can try swapping the relay with another one but sounds like the fuel pump is ok.

Ok, car is running, it is amazing what gas will do. The gauge does not work, and he told me he topped it off. This thing needs new plug wires, because when I was hooking the timing light up, I saw it arc. Car runs great at idle, it just does not want to rev up quickly, and hesitates, and so times pops. I am starting to wonder about the vac advance on the dist. When I pull the hoses off, no change in anything.

You should get a change with the retard hose. I don't know enough to talk lucidly about distributors but the grease in the shaft that allows the (I think-but may be wrong) mechanical timing to do it's thing can dry out.

I believe you can get to it from the top without pulling the distributor but it has been a while for me. Pulling the distributor is not a unique job for the 911 so should be a piece of cake if you wish. It can save your back.

Do the vacuum hoses have any suction on them?

I think you can check if the shaft is greased by rotating the rotor. Mine moves about a quarter inch at the outboard tip and then springs back. Don't know what the equates to in degrees.

Bob, that is what it feels like now, car revs great sitting, but once loaded up, it feels sluggish, and will pop, like it is not advancing. I am going to look for my vac gauge to check the vac line, plus, use vac gun on advance can. Engine idles great, which is better than before. It must have been getting low enough on fuel, and I sucked the rest out when I went down the street.

Ok, fired the engine up, and no vac from either lines, but I could get a little from the red line after reving, and rpms dropping. I am going to pull the hose and make sure it is not broken.

Vacuum advance and retard are irrelevent to WOT performance. If you think you have a distributor problem, you need to put a timing light on it and watch the timing advance as you open the throttle. It should go from 5 BTDC to 25 BTDC as you rev it up. If not, the mechanical advance can be frozen, pop the cap, pull off the rotor, put a few drops of oil on the felt pad and try and snap the rotor back and forth against the spring pressure. If this does not do it, you need to pull the distributor, strip it and clean and lube it. My advice is to do nothing until you test the timing.

Well, this is it, I am done with this thing. At least I fixed some of the problems, but I told my friends they need to take it to a shop that knows this injection system. I hate to give up, but sometimes when you are whooped, you have to admit it, and I will admit it. Thank you to everyone who helped on this, and I wish there was something good as a result. JC witney no longer carries the gauges for the CIS stuff. Again, thank you everyone. Now I know why I stay away from injection, love carbs.

You had it 90% whipped. Also, given the labor of brotherly love getting into the way of cash flow, very understandable. Give yourself a break, you got the thing in spitting distance of getting it fixed.

If you do have a chance, see if that rotor moves and snaps back. If frozen, it may give the next mechanic a heads up.

Hope to hear from you soon.

I second that thought. I'd love to see a follow-up once you get to the bottom of this.

D

Yeah, I did check the dist, Rotor moved good, pump the vac advance with vac gun, held pressure. Cheched both vac lines and only the red would would pull anything, but only after reving engine. I will let everyone know what is found after a shop that does CIS, figures it out. Thanks again everyone for your work at helping me. I seem to be known, for having the worse things to have to figure out, and even though I am not an injection guy, I still found more things wrong with it than the last 2 shops did, so I feel good about that. I got the new boots on the intake legs, and the O2 is hooked back up, and a few other thing where found, like the bad oil leak, dr side return tube. There are a few more things I will be doing on this car, but it will be in a few months when they get some more parts together. Thanks again

Porscheman912, I actually live on the same road as you. I live about 4 miles west of you across from Louis Block park in Camas.

I had the same problem you were describing, and it was due to my cold control pressure not being low enough. The car was actually too lean until the WUR completely warmed.

NOBLE,...!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best,

Doyle