Help with rear hard brake line removal

[Hankford]

Greetings:

I was replacing my lines with SS and on the last nut, i rounded it off and it is frozen in place.

I assume that I will need to replace the right rear hard line. But, I cannot figure how to access the coupler to remove that line.

Again, need to replace right rear hard line from coupler to flexible line. How do I get at that coupler?

Thanks for any help.

[Superman]

The coupling between the hard line and the flexible line is a large hex nut (17mm?) and a small hex nut (11mm?). Both should be handled using flare nut wrenches. If one is hopelessly buggered up, then I suppose a vice grip would be the next step.

[wildcat077]

Remove the locking tab and you will be able to slide the lines out which ever way you need to go,my guess would be towards the front...

A good practice before you remove anything for the first time,especially brake parts is to heat with a torch even though it looks like it will loosen easily !

Cheers !
Phil

[herr_oberst]

Pull the clip holding the line assy (hard and flexible) to the chassis, then you'll have play enough in the line to get ahold of the 17 mm nut.


(oops - Phil beat me to the punch!)

These lines require flare nut wrenches, normal open end wrenches tend to bugger up the nuts.

[wildcat077]

Hey Herr_ oberst ,

Great minds think alike ... lol

Cheers !
Phil

[Hankford]

I have rounded the nut badly on the hardline/flexline connection.

I would like to replace the hardline. However, I cannot figure out how to get a wrench into the spot to remove the end of the hardline attached to the coupler (it is under the transmission support bar.

85 911 Coupe.

I will definitely try the torch.

In the image below, I am trying to remove the hardline (in red) from the coupler to install a new one.

Any suggestions on how to access the coupler and the hardline nuts in the coupler?

Thanks,

[herr_oberst]

I got nothin; I just got through replacing the rubber lines last weekend, but I didn't have to go further than into the lines than that.

Good luck.

[rusnak]

You might have to resort to a small pipe wrench or vise-grip if it's too rounded off.

[Head416]

OP's question was never answered... I might be looking at replacing a rear hardline between the coupler and hose too.

Anybody have experience/advice on getting to the rear brake line coupler?

Thanks.

[James Brown]

If your going to replace the hard lines, just cut them off. That way, you can get a closed end wrench or a socket on that fitting. If you buggered up the fitting. look at taking the next fitting upstream off and removing the whole unit to the bench, drain it and try some low heat. and vicegrips.

[Head416]

What I'm looking for before deciding if I'm going to replace the hardline is:

-Where is the coupler located in the car? (Above the trans? At the rear end of the tunnel?)
-Is it easily accessible?
-Do I have to remove a bunch of other stuff to get to it?

I've already replaced the rubber hose, and yes, I buggered the nut on the hard line in the process. But I got everything reconnected and there are no leaks, so this is an optional replacement for now. I'm just trying to get a sense of how hard/easy it is to get access to the coupler. If it involves an engine drop, I'll pass for now!

[frankc]

Take a look at photo #5 in the post below. I am documenting the process of replacing all brake (& fuel) lines, and this picture shows the coupler you are interested in:

Should I replace theses brake and fuel lines?

The thread starts here:

Should I replace theses brake and fuel lines?

Note that the engine/gearbox are out of the car, so things are MUCH more accessible (one of the reasons I decide
d to drop the motor).

[Head416]

Thanks! Now that I see where it is I'll get under there and see if I can reach it.

[burgermeister]

Why don't you just get a new flare nut & a bubble flaring tool, cut the line, and add a new bubble flare to it (add flare nut before flaring!!!) ? There should be the required 10mm of slop available in the hard line. Lines on my car were a bronze alloy of sorts (cunifer?), and the stuff flares very easily. You will need to get the hard line separated from the soft line (vise grips). Once separated, heat from a torch and shots of PB blaster while turning the nut back & forth will liberate the nut eventually (patience required). Then you just have to cut the wee bubble flare off, swap flare nuts, flare a new bubble, and give it a flush before reconnecting.

Unless the factory line is dirt cheap, then it hardly seems worthwhile ...

Careful - applied heat to flare nuts on wet brake lines leads to micro cannon shots from exploding brake fluid! No big deal or danger as long as it's not aimed at your face ...