Shift Rod Selector Seal - I screwed it up

[gregwils]

I re-bushed the coupler on my '86. There was quite a bit of trans oil lying in the tunnel, so i figured that I should replace the seal...hate to do a job half way, after all.

I had read on the board where someone used a set of o-ring/seal removal tools to yank that seal out from the selector rod right at the back of the tunnel. Sounds simple, right? It is a little awkward, because you feel like a dentist using a mirror to maneuver. Well, I pick, poked and yanked (hard) for about an hour. I made no (zero) progress in removing the seal, but did a fine job of screwing it up.

Now what? An acquaintance suggested that I might be able to drive the existing seal deeper and mount another seal in front with the help of some adhesives. I'll probably replace the clutch this winter, and will fix it properly then. I really just need a 3 or 4 month 500 - 1000 mile solution.

Do I keep going with the pick or mount the second seal? Other options? Any recommendations on the seal adhesive?

[gregwils]

I reread the tech article on replacing the seal and think I will drive a small screwdriver through the seal, then try the seal puller again.

I did find a few folks who indicated they were successful with this procedure. I will probably remove the passenger seat to make certain I have adequate leverage and angle.

I would still be interested in any insights or encouragement others might be able to offer. Thanks.

[Mo_Gearhead]

I have never tried to replace that seal, however if it was leaking initially (prompting the cleanup and thoughts of replacing it), it will probably REALLY leak now!

I.M.O. it needs to come out and a new one installed. Good luck.

[Gunter]

Try not to damage the rod itself.
It takes patience, a small mirror, light, and a small seal puller or a home-made tool.
The seal puller looks like a cork screw with a long handle, they come in different sizes.
Or, you can make a tool from a stiff wire like a coat hanger and bend the end into a fish hook.
Pull with the tool in different positions so the seal stays straight.
DO NOT try and push the old seal in and install a new one in front!
Bad advise, avoid any help from that source.

[vash]

i tried various picks and pullers for an hour. i was just about to give up, when i took the smaller craftsman screwdriver (the one with the clip on it to attach it to your shirt pocket) and jammed it into the seal. a simple pry, and i was victorious! i ended up bending the tool a bit, but it still works. take a look at the new replacement seal. note the metal ring? go inside of that ring. in my opinion, the shaft is harder than my screwdriver, so that is safe. what you can jack up is the tranny part. dont gouge it.

good luck

[gregwils]

I just wanted to close this thread for those that may search on it later. I was successful removing the shift rod seal.

The secret is what others said about getting a small o-ring type pick in between the rod and seal. Once positioned, it's relatively each to grap the metal reinforcing ring in the seal and pop it out. It took about 5 minutes.

I found it easier to have my knees on the ground with the door open to work from the side. Getting in the back seat means working upside down using a mirror, much harder to coordinate.

[lespaul]

I have been at it about 2 hours and no luck getting the seal out with the cotter pin extractor.

Has anyone used a fine pair of right angle needle nose pliers to do this?

[Porsche_monkey]

I drove a small sheet metal screw into the seal and yank the screw head with pliers.

[lespaul]

I was going to try that but was afraid to scratch or bung up the transmission housing or shaft.

[911quest]

I find it easier to just remove the trans mounts and bracket and get it from the bottom this way you can use the nose cone as leverage to pop the seal out.

[Johnb911]

I used a SNAP ON Pick Set.
30.00CDN for 4 picks.

[aj88cab]

Originally Posted by 911quest

I find it easier to just remove the trans mounts and bracket and get it from the bottom this way you can use the nose cone as leverage to pop the seal out.

Very good advice......and while your in there.....http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/PEL_search.cgi?command=show_part_page&please_wait=N&make=POR&model=911M&section=TRANSM&page=5&bookmark=&part_number=PEL-MTRMNT

[austin552]

I used a small screw driver and hammer to make a hole and the pick/ puller(Advance Auto) to pull it out. Used a couple lawn mower spark plug removers and a hammer to pound in the new one. After that changing all the shift bushings was a snap. Just MARK the shaft and coupler before removing.

[FenderBender]

Great This seal is on my to do list.

[lespaul]

Ok - I finally got it out last night in about 5 min. My tool was too big before and I did not realize how small the space is between the shift shaft and the transmission housing.

For those of you who are trying this, please understand that the space between the shift rod and the trans housing where the seal sits is very small. I would say, less than 1/4 inch. Thus, when you stick your cotter pin remover in there to grab the metal band in the seal, slide your tool along the shift shaft. I suggest you modify your tool so that it has a very small hook (like a fishing hook) that is about 1/8 inch long. This will let you get in the small space, yet grab the metal band.

[Porsche_monkey]

Originally Posted by lespaul

I was going to try that but was afraid to scratch or bung up the transmission housing or shaft.

Actually, you reminded me: I used a brass wood screw.

[88911coupe]

I think I have a leak at the shift coupler seal on my '88 G50 but there is no fluid in the access area in the rear floor. It appears that the connection is too far back to leak into this area in a G50...does that make sense? I have what appears to be a lot of tranny fluid at the front of the transmission and on the rubber surround near the shift coupler. I'm worried I may have nicked it when I was trying to hold it still to reconnect the shifter after the rebuild.
TIA