Replacing Wheel Studs

[JT]

Any advice on replacing the wheel studs on my rear wheels? I need longer ones to accommodate the spacers I am using.

What is the size of the nut that holds the wheel?

[Jdub]

Hi: Cannot answer your question, but wanted to say that I bought a new battery terminal cleaner and retired the old one to clean 'studs and inside the nuts. I couldn't believe how much old grease/dirt/antiseize I found between the threads and up in the 'nuts.

If you don't have one of these, they are about three bucks at your local. One side has a cavity with wires pointing in to clean the battery terminal post, the other end has a clever snap out "twirl" of wire that can be put into a battery terminal clamp to clean it. You can extrapolate how nice this is for cleaning those studs and nuts.

Sorry not to be of more help,
Jw

[Superman]

In order to replace the wheel studs on my car, the rear hubs had to be removed. This destroys the bearings, which then need to be replaced at $50-$100 each, plus labor. A special tool is required for installation and removal of these rear bearings.

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'83 SC

[john walker's workshop]

if you pull out the e/brake cable, you can R+R the studs thru that hole. a hammer gets them out (an airhammer is nice), and a stack of washers and steel lugnut installs them. use some lube, like antiseize.

[This message has been edited by john walker's workshop (edited 06-26-2001).]

[Superman]

Cool. You're really helping us out here with these insider tricks, John.

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'83 SC

[Joe Bob]

If they are anything like the 914 bearings...we put them in the freezer overnight. They slide right in.

[JT]

Thanks guys, looks like I have my weekend planned.

[orbmedia]

It seems like John Walker's tricks are all designed so he has the minimum amount of work to do. John, are you just lazy or something?

[john walker's workshop]

i've just been doing it for a long time. no sense replacing a wheel bearing to do the stud job if you don't have to, for instance. the final bill is a lot cheaper, too. customers like that. as long as the quality doesn't suffer, shortcuts are good for everyone.

[JT]

Just wanted to express my appreciation to John and offer some additional insights to the rookie wrenches. I completed the wheel stud replacement this past weekend. The first wheel took about 3 hours, the second less than an hour. Let me explain the time difference.
John said to remove the e-brake cable and have a lot of washers handy. Well, here’s what that really means. I removed the wheel, then I tried to remove the e-brake cable. That failed, so I removed the calipers, then the disc. Well, well, look at the end of the e-brake cable and the cotter pin secured nut. Once they were removed, the cable came right out. NO, don’t pull it all the way out, as it has an interesting double hinge mechanism that is hell to reconnect.
Next I began to hammer out the old studs. For some reason I was being gentle with the hammer. After several applications of liquid wrench, a little heating with a torch and more serious beatings, the old studs began to move. Yes, the e-brake hole worked.
Now for the washers. You need to somehow pull the new lugs tight and that is the purpose of the washers. The thread does not go all the way to the head of the lug, so the washers take up the slack. Figuring all of this out, finding substitute for a bunch of washers and realizing that the lugs had notches that should sorta align with the hub, took the extra time.
Again, thanks all. It saved much time and the cost of two rear wheel bearings

[Joe Bob]

Where did you get and how much did the long studs cost?

I may do the same, as I use 993 wheels on my SC and the tech weenies don't like my spacer adapters.

[JT]

Got them at Performance Products. They WERE having a 20% sale.

[Joe Bob]

A friend just had a bad experience with Performance Products.....so I will look elsewhere, but thanks.

It was rather odd....he actually went (non-mail order) into the shop, asked to purchase a product. The Godlike Computer said that it was sold out, the product was physically taken from him and he was told that he could not make the purchase.

It may sound like urban legend, but the customer is a very good friend of mine....

[JT]

Ouch, sorry about that. I have never been to their shop, but do everything by phone and have never had a problem. However, there are probably several other outfits that will sell studs. Just make sure you get the right length.

[JohnC]

I was considering replacing my studs due to a wheel switch (C2 turbo wheels on a '77 930 to a bbs basket weave style "20 bolt" rim)
the spacers are too thick for my liking.Unfortunately that leaves me with superlong studs sticking out of the rims.I was even considering leaving the long studs and running lugs that were tapped through.
After reading you helpful hints maybe i will replace rather than cut the studs to length.

[JT]

Since you would have to remove the studs to cut them, I would replace them. They are not that expensive and cutting would be quite a chore.

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Just a small thing:

The studs have a theet zone. If you set them into a new hup they will press the grooves.

Now if you renew them check if they have the same theeth and try to place them in the grooves. The reson is if you don´t do it they can work free at unbolting/bolting down the nut. Porsche has oversized studs to fix that problem.


BTW avoid hard hammering as this will go on the bearings too. I use a selfmodified vice.

Use a m14 x 1,5 nut or a steel lug nut. Tourque them over 150 Nm and retourque them to 130 Nm after 50 mls.

Grüsse