Engine Drop: While you're in there stuff??
 

Guys,

I am planning an engine drop (first one) to replace the oil cooler seals, they are leaking and oil from that and from leaky fitting on oil return line is getting onto exhaust, so those are the main two reasons for the engine drop. But can you guys help me with other stuff to replace "while i'm in there"?? The car is an 89 Carrera 3.2 and has 104,000 miles. Valve guides were replaced at 98,000. I will be dropping engine and trans as one unit. This is my list so far:

1. throttle bell crank bushings, on engine and trans
2. three fuel hoses and oil return line to Amazon hose in Tampa, c/o Bill Hippy
3. oil cooler seals
4. oil pressure sending unit
5. Spark plugs
6. valve lash adjust
7. Transmission oil
What else??

Thanks in advance. ;)

Engine and transmission mounts although they can be done with the engine in.

How's the sound/heat pad?

Fuses and relays
 

Not part of your ongoing effort(s),
but check my June post "Adding fuses and relays".

And +1 on your sound heat pad.

P/N 911-556-891-01

Good luck,

Gerry

Vac lines & heater hoses, especially if they look at all worn.

++ on the sound mat, very easy without the engine... very hard with.

I'm not familiar with the 3.2 engine bay layout, but in the SC/2.7 the fuel filter is much easier to deal with w/o the engine in (unless the electric heater fan has been removed), and you don't spill gas all over the engine.

I replaced the sound pad, as some others recommend.

Got a deluxe one from our host:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1287885510.jpg

Honestly, I don't notice any improvement in noise abatement when compared to the original - and disintegrating - noise pad. But, it needed to be changed, regardless.

Start Ordering...
 

Doing the same and looking for a "not going crazy" list... Got the sound pad last year so it will go in.

101 Project #7 highly recommends the following replacement among other things;

Oil Pressure Switch: Project 21

Heater Hose: Project 43

Oil Breather Hose: Project 21

Clutch and Flywheel seal: Project 8

CIS Intake Manifold Hose: Project 31 (1973-1983)

Oil Cooler Seals: Project 21

Pulley Seals: Project 21

Valve Cover Gasket (& adjustment): Project 18

Oil Cooler O Ring Thermostat: Project 21

Rocker Arm Seal: Project 21

Be sure to check the condition of the rubber on this vacuum line behind the heater blower as cracking is a common failure. Link to my repair thread attached.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/428782-repair-vs-replacement-options-part.html

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1287924978.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1287925199.jpg

Banana arm bushes?

Fuel line inspection, for sure

and if you are close to replacing it, then replace the clutch. If you do go into the clutch, replace the rear main seal as well.

+1000!!

cleaning and paiting engine tin baffles. that is almost free.

Check the oil breather gasket to see if it is leaking. If you're replacing the clutch, be sure to put in a new release bearing.

You can de-rust & refurbish the heater flapper valves.
Rear brake lines are a breeze with the engine out
Rear wheel bearings are a lot easier

Not sure what year your car is, but on many of our torsion bar cars, the bolts that hold the banana arms in place are installed pointing outward. Reversing these - as you check the bushings - will enable removal with the engine in place in the future.

Also a good time to clean and repaint or powdercoat all of the engine tin. Nice dress up item...:cool:

Thanks guys for all the replies…

Let’s see

Engine and trans mounts → will check these once engine is dropped, thanks Wayne
Sound/heat pad → looks to be in good condition. I will take a closer look once engine is down, thanks Milt
Fuses and Relays → this one’s been at the back of my mind. I definitely don’t want my car to burn down to the ground, so I’ll probably do this too, thanks Gerry
Vac Lines & heater hose → I guess I’ll have to search on that one, not sure where these are
Fuel fitler → thanks for reminding me of that. I actually already have the filter, thanks Chris
101 porjects → I’ve been meaning to buy this reference. Thanks for the list JJ. I too did not want to go Crazy with this project.
Vacuum line → thanks MThomas,
Bannana Arm bushings, need to research these too → thanks Shirish
Clutch → The clutch feels good, if a bit stiff for a hydraulic unit. So won’t be replacing it now. Thanks YelCab1
Clean and paint engine compartment → will do, thanks again YelCab
Oil Breather gaskets → thanks Mike, I will do these too
Flapper valves → will do, thanks Burgermeister
Reverse Banana bolts and powder coat engine tin → thanks Bill


Thanks again everybody!!

I'll suggest the temp sensor and the speed and reference sensors. If the outer casing on your sensors crumbles in your hand, time to go. You can cross reference the speed and ref sensors to BMW units which are considerable less expensive (1/2). I don't have the part numbers, but there are threads that list them. I did mine two years ago with Bosch units for a BMW. They were identical in every respect - length, bolt location, diameter, etc. Direct replacements from the same manufacturer designed for a motronic engine mgmt system.

With the engine out it is a good time to check CV joints and boots for wear and tear.

-Michael

Engine out-------Clean Clean Clean make it spotless and keep it that way.....
Polish or look into the fan and alternator assembly, any seal and or o rings
valve cover gaskets, fuel lines disinigrate, change them. Steam clean.
Clutch throw out bearing new disk, and your car will really quiet down...
Have fun
Tom
88 Carrera Targa

+1 on replacing speed, reference and CHT sensors. Easy to do with engine out and good preventative maitenance. I am going thru a no start situation traced to a reference sensor failure right now.

+1 I dropped my engine to replace a broken head stud in 2007. Now I've got to do the pad. I wished I had thought of it when I did other preventative maintenance items like seals, CHT, etc back then.
+1 on Speed and Ref sensors.
Check your ground straps and shift bushings.
Also, take a really good look at all the vacuum lines on your intake. There's bunches of them, they're 20+ years old and any one could cause all kinds of idle issues later on.

Take your time and double / triple check. With a lot of parts being taken off you can get a little too deep into multi-tasking and simply forget to tighten something. Not a problem if it's not the breather hose gasket. :-)

Having removed my disintegrating pad while the engine was in the car, one thing I would say is that when I replace it, it will be with the silver pad. My car is GP white, and with the old black/gray pad out, the light background does brighten (higher contrast) things up in the engine compartment. Doesn't seem like the endless black abyss.

-Jack

Thank got it's bottom less. Got a silver with red trim to match the rest... One of the "while the engine is out" project :D:):D







http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288139309.jpg

Engine sensors → will change those out, thanks Greg

Clutch → hmmmm, you guys are making it hard not to go down the slippery slope, I might do if pricing is not too bad for a LWF and clutch set, what about $1000? I notice our host doesn’t carry a LWF for my 89 3.2?? Thanks Tom, i'm thinking about it.

Ground Straps → clean and reinstall, thanks Joe

Take your time → very good point, there will be a lot going on, thanks Bob K


Thanks again for all the great ideas guys!

I tag everything... each hose end gets a string tied tag with the same corresponding letter on it. That way I don't actually have to remember anything ;)

Another while you are in there is re-packing / inspecing CV joints/boots.

Enjoy!

-Michael

A digital camera to capture where everything is located and how it came out saved my can on several occassions. I would take pics at each major step. Then, a box of baggies and a sharpie to mark the bags. As they say on the cop shows, "bag and tag".

Well this is a timely post, thanks AlfonsoR! I am planning my first drop this winter on an '89 Carrera for a slipping clutch…. love this forum, thanks for the input everyone!

For you it is. Its a 4 year old thread and my car does not look the same anymore...

Beware of the "while I'm in there" slippery slope :D:):D

2010

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288139309.jpg

2014

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1401073777.jpg

It looks like your engine lost some weight ...

also, here some more info on dropping the engine:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/764914-what-fastest-drop-engine-time-did-you-guys-have.html

Team, rather than start a new thread i'm reheating an old one so we can update it and educate at the same time.

I am planning my first engine out on my 79SC shortly and want to prepare a list of jobs to do while i'm in there. It also includes putting together a parts list.

My main reason for pulling the engine/gearbox is to fix some persistent oil leaks and give the whole thing a good detail.

The plan while i'm in there is to:
Replace oil tubes
Replace corroded exhaust studs
valve adjust
check fuel lines
check heat pad
replace any seals/gaskets back there
banana arm bushes

Anything else?

Misc.....
 

With the engine out
Have a good look under the cooling tin. Heard reports of nests, dog food in there.
If you are doing the valve adjust, at least check rocker shaft bolts,head bolts, maybe install rocker shaft seals, (EBS?)
Check tightness of every nut and bolt that is accessible. I know this sounds a bit anal, but at one point, someone over tightened the block thermostat, pulling the threads, (mag case), then, after an oil line restrictor and Carreras front cooler upgrade, the thermostat popped right. Out of the case, he'll of a mess and the reason for. My last drop. A torque spec sheet would be a good idea. I also helicoiled a few case bolts.
Chris

I just replaced the three fuel hoses on my '88 3.2 this weekend. While in there, I decided to check on the intake manifold to case barrel bolts. Was surprised to see that some were only finger tight on my 37,000 mile car. You may want to snug those up to eliminate any vacuum leaks.