Wiring question

[JAE]

Hope this is readable




[This message has been edited by JAE (edited 06-30-2001).]

[jc]

Question,

When the button is in up position, is there still continuity btwn 5 and 8? When in down position, continuity between 1 and 4?

Regards,
jeff

BTW, nice diagrams! Fess up, I bet your garage floor is clean enough to eat off, isn't it? :-)

[This message has been edited by jc (edited 06-30-2001).]

[JAE]

Jeff,
Yes, good point, I updated the diagram.
Thanks,
Joe

[jc]

Ok, here goes.

Connect pins 1 and 8 directly to motor.
Connect 4 to power from Relay 2
Connect 5 to power from Relay 1
Connect 3 to Ground.

So, when switch at rest, 1 and 8 are both fed +12V, motor doesn't turn.
When switch up, pin 8 fed +12V, pin 1 fed ground, motor turns.
When switch down, pin 1 is fed +12V, pin 8 is ground, motor turns opposite direction.

If upper microswitch kicks in, power to pin 8 is cut, motor stops.
If lower limit kicks in, power to pin 1 is cut, motor stops.

You may have to swap the connections to 1 and 8 if motor turning in wrong direction.

Hope it helps..
jeff

[Jack Olsen]

Well, this may or may not help, since I know very little about electrical stuff. But here's the diagram Tyson (Brainiac) did for wiring 964 decklids.

Click on the thumbnail for a larger version.



I'm currently planning on installing a load sensor circuit -- the same thing you use to make power windows 'one touch' -- so that I don't have to hold the switch and count out eight seconds every time I want to raise or lower the lid. Any advice from those of you who understand this stuff?

------------------
Jack Olsen
My Rennlist home page • My Pelican Gallery page • My Porsche Owners Gallery page

[This message has been edited by JackOlsen (edited 06-30-2001).]

[jc]

Jack,

I've done something similar. Installed a simple 3 position switch on my dash (though I'm currently using only 2 positions, 3rd position is for a future auto-deployment-at-speed setting). Flick the switch one way or the other, tail retracts/deploys til it hits the limits and automatically stops. Doesn't require me to keep my finger on it. I'll take a pic of the circuit diagram and post it later this weekend.

Regards,
jeff

[jc]

Ok, got some pics for ya..

The circuit diagram:


Here's my dash switch, it's the one to the left of the light switch. The toggle above is manual control for the oil cooler fan.


Here's the control box (where all the relays are) sitting where the A/C used to be:


Here's the car at a Ferrari event at Laguna a couple weeks ago:


A better look at the wing:


Regards,
jeff

[This message has been edited by jc (edited 06-30-2001).]

[jc]

try that again..

[JAE]

Jeff,
Thanks for the explanation. Nice car, that is one bear of a wiring diagram! Do you use a SPDT switch with that setup?

Jack,
Check this page out- discussion of installing an auto switch and link to "autolock". They seem very load sensitive so you may have problems with it. Your electric motor will probably draw different currents depending on the speed you are going when deploying- making the switch erratic.

http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/onetouch.htm

Joe
'80 SC Targa

[jc]

Joe,

Ya, an SPDT will do the trick.

Cheers,
jeff

[Roland Kunz]

Hello

Very simple. Get a 993 switch and the 964 control module. then hook up the speedo cable and make all the other electric conections the switch will fit with the spacer for the Fader inside the middle consule or on the left where the light hight adjustment sits. If you take a 74-79 oil instrument you will find a red light for the sportomatic. Just use it for the wing alert. then the thing works like on the 964. Everything else is just not worth to think about as a RS duck tail will outperform the C2 wing for a lower money investment.

Grüsse

[stormcrow]

JAE,

You can make this switch work by doing the following:

Relay #1 power supply (12v +) to terminal #1
Relay #2 power supply (12v +)to terminal #8
Ground for motor #1 & #2 to terminal #3. Ground terminal #3 to frame.

When the switch is in the up position, power
will go from terminal #1 through the micro switch, to the motor and back to ground on terminal #3 causing the motor to run. When the micro switch reaches its limit, it will stop providing power to the motor.

When the switch is in the down position, power will go from terminal #8 through the micro switch, to the motor and back to ground on terminal #3 causing the motor to run. When the micro switch reaches its limit, it will stop providing power to the motor.

Hope this info helps.

Steve

[jc]

Steve,

Your solution causes a short to ground when the switch is in the up or down positions, eg pin3 (ground) is shorted to +12V (your pin1 connection) when switch is upg. Won't work.

Regards,
jeff

[stormcrow]

Sorry about that, got my wires crossed. After looking at it one more time, let the switch break the ground side of the wire.

Power (12v +) through relay #1, through the micro switch and then to the motor. The negative terminal will connect to terminal #1 on the switch. Terminal #3 will be the common ground for both relays.

Power (12v +) through relay #2, through the micro switch and then to the motor. The negative terminal will connect to terminal #8 on the switch. Terminal #3 will be the common ground for both relays.

I think this should work. Relay #1 will be to raise the decklid, Relay #2 will be to lower the decklid.

Steve