transmission plugs - switch to head type

[TedSlick]

Would there be any problem switching the standard transmission fill/drain plugs (the ones that require the 17mm hex wrench) to one with a head that can be removed by a socket instead?

Is this type of plug readily available? Should be a lot like the oil plug (magnetic, etc.), right?

[marcesq]

Ted:

I was very thankful to find that the prior owner installed the very plugs you are refering to on my 915. The drain plug has the magnetic pick up the upper one does not.

My 1 cent.

[Jim Sims]

Some people also put a plug with a magnet in the fill hole. Buy the correct OEM plugs (raised heads are okay and available in the OEM plugs); this is not a place to try and save money by buying something else and find you have ruined the transmission housing female thread. The plugs have a tapered thread; use no sealant or tape, just clean them and install with the correct torque: 17 ft-lbs. Cheers, Jim

[Early_S_Man]

Ted,

Steel 915 filler plug -- 19 mm Hex Head -- 999.064.007.02

Steel 915 magnetic drain plug -- 19 mm Hex Hesd -- 999.064.008.02

[TedSlick]

Warren, I assume those are Pelican part numbers. I did a search, but no hits. I'd like to take a look. Must be doing something wrong.

[Early_S_Man]

Ted,

No, those are dealer part numbers out of the '72-'73 factory parts catalog ...

VW plugs for air-cooled vehicles are also steel and same threading as the 915 plugs, but they are of the 17 mm inhex style. Good source for emergency spare ... just in case, though.

[TedSlick]

Okay, thanks. You mean the '72/3 models were head-type plugs vs. inhex? Wonder why they'd switch to what I would think is an inferior plug design

Case in point: I just made a prelim. attempt to remove the top plug. Bear in mind, I can stand full height under my car, using any length of breaker bar I want, and the plug won't budge! Sprayed it with liquid wrench for now and decided to search for drastic measures to get that thing off without stripping the inhex. The Porsche shop put those plugs in about a year ago and I guess they really cranked it in

Is it best to try removing the plug with the tranny cold or warmed up?

Crud, self-maintenance had been going so well up to just now...

[Jim Sims]

Not good! Try tightening it very slightly first and then loosening it. Keep hex bit well seated into the wrenching socket in the plug; sometimes it's best to have two persons. One to lean on the bit and keep it well seated and the second to pull the cheater pipe. Good luck. Jim

[Early_S_Man]

Ted,

Be sure that the hex recess is clean ... use Q-tips, or paper towel soaked in brake spray cleaner?degreaser and thoroughly clean the recess for the bit. Be sure that the 17 mm bit is a high=quality one that fits snugly, too. You DON'T want to strip the hex and have to resort to the cold chisel/Dremel cutter routine!

The plugs are easier to get out if the transaxle is fully warmed-up to operating temperature. The gear oil drains more thoroughly when warm, too!

[TedSlick]

Yes, thanks, I did clean the plug head thoroughly beforehand to get full bite. The hex socket I'm using I bought from a VW parts shop. Looks like the Pelican one. Quality I guess is okay, but is very slightly loose. Packaging says "Transaxle Drain Tool".

Haven't used extreme torque yet for fear I can easily strip the plug with the amount of ft-lbs I can generate having full clearance below the car. The plug is still in good shape...for now.

I'll warm the car up and try again later. Think I'll try to pick up a high-strength allen wrench if heating doesn't work.

Read somewhere that a propane torch applied to the area might help? Would prefer to avoid, but any thoughts whether it might be worthwhile?

Man, the last guy must've used an air impact wrench

[Doug Zielke]

Unfortunately, the Gorillas just don't get it.
These plugs have a tapered thread, and as such, do not require hundreds of foot-lbs to keep them tight and leak proof.

TIP: Have a helper tap the wrench with a hammer while you keep (loosening) tension on the plug.

[TedSlick]

Whew! Thanks guys, the lube and all your tips must have helped. Both plugs successfully removed

One additional thing I did before really cranking on the bar was to add pieces of thin feeler gauge (sizes I never use) into the small gap between the hex socket and the plug...took away the play, and bye bye plugs.

Drain plug looks like this:

[Jim Sims]

Congrats Ted! Now on to that clutch and those leaks. Cheers, Jim