Frnt. Sus. rebuild: Can I break job into these tasks?

[Wheezer]

Hello:

I will be replacing the strut inserts, the balljoints, sway bar bushings, tie rods (going to Turbo set) and torsion bars, and would like to know if the job can be broken out in the manner described below so that I can bring the ball joint to a pro. to have the nut broken free.

So, can I simply break the tie rod from the strut, and remove the wedge pin from the balljoint-to-strut so that, by removing the A arm (control arm) from the car, I can simply take the A arm to a shop to have them pull the notched bolt from the A arm and thus remove the balljoint? Or is the leverage provided by the entire assembly in the car the best way to break this nut free?

Reason I ask is that I don't have access to what I think I'd need to pull this nut: the tool, pneumatic equipment, or even a breaker bar of useful length.

Thands for your replies,
John

[mm86911]

Yes. . . the swedge pin unbolts leaving the balljoint on the A-arm. Just make sure you support the spindle with a jack stand BEFORE removing the pin.

I would also recommend replacing the A-arm bushings while the car is apart - depending on mileage you'll find they compress causing the torsion bar to rub on the inner tube.

Reassembly isn't difficult - you'll have to move things around to get the balljoint bolt to align.

I just did this same project (bushings, bugger t-bars, etc.) over the holidays - you'll be very pleased with the tighter ride.

[marcesq]

Just to add to Mike's note. If you are going to replace the torsion bars then you must replace the A-arm bushings. All of the companies that sell after market torsion bars will deny warranty coverage if the A-arm bushings are not replaced at the same time as the torsion bars are replaced. Save proof of work, parts, etc.

Just my opinion.

[T Bird]

If you are going to replace the front torsion bars anyway, loosen the torsion bar adjuster first to take the spring out of the A-arm. Replace the wedge pins with new ones (Porsche recommendation- safety) and lubricate the new ones with grease before installing to ease removal in the future. Tap the wedge with a hammer to make sure that it's properly seated before you torque the nut to 16 ft./lbs. There is a line scribed on the end of the wedge pin. It points toward the brake disc. Good luck.

[Jdub]

This is a very useful thread. What Wheezer is doing seems to be breaking the front end rebuild into A arm/tie rod/strut housing assemblies. Can anyone comment on if it is possible to remove and replace inserts (no pin aka Bilstein reverse struts) with the hub/rotor/caliper attached? That is, could one unbolt the balljoint via the wedge pin as described, break tie rod from strut, and then just let the strut hand from the upper mount? Then, remove the strut housing with all appendages (brake line undone naturally) so that you would be able to avoid disassembling the hub from the strut? That would be ideal in my position as I have new/rebuilt front bearings/rotor/caliper and don't want to undo all of THAT stuff if I can help it!

Thanks much,
John