![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
Ox sensor relay keeps dying - 1981 911sc
Hi,
I'm pretty new to posting on this forum... I've been pretty good at searching for all the incredible answers I found... Made me wonder why Porsche mechanics don't search on the forum instead of searching on my car for hours charging me for it. The problem I have, amongst others, is a constantly unreliable Ox sensor relay (under passenger seat). It was horrible for a while (car would die or not start) and I have replaced the relay with the oem one from Pelican, it got a bit better, but quickly got bad again. I then installed one from Napa, it seemed better than the oem one from our host but it is still not working properly (I have to bang it every time I start the car and sometimes as I'm driving when I feel the power go down). I have looked at the connections on the sensor control box and they all seem good, I looked at the wires and connections around the relay, all ok. I don't know where else to look for bad connections or else... Has anyone had this problem? Thanks for your help David |
||
![]() |
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Maybe the frequency valve itself is failing?
|
||
![]() |
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Might also try unplugging o2 sensor just to rule it out as a possible culprit.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,442
|
check the plug real good. green corrosion, loose contact on any one of the terminals in the plug.
__________________
https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
||
![]() |
|
RETIRED
|
Could be a poisoned cat...ever put leaded gas in the tank?
__________________
1983/3.6, backdate to long hood 2012 ML350 3.0 Turbo Diesel |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Thanks for the info guys, I already run with the O2 sensor unplugged because if I plug it in after adjusting the CO (0.3-0.8V on sensor), it ends up going way rich and hunts so I run it a bit rich and unplugged. I should check the frequency valve... I think I have to shake it and see if it moves in there or something like that right? It never had leaded gas in there.
|
||
![]() |
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Is the FV buzzing? Should be audible.
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Once I knock the relay around a bit, it does buzz...
It seems like an unreliable relay but it is the 3rd one that goes in there... |
||
![]() |
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
Sounds like the FV is ok then. Gotta be a bad connection somewhere. Doubt that 3 relays would be bad. Sure you got the right one?
|
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I got the one from Pelican and another one from Napa, both were listed as the right one. The diagrams were identical to the one that was there before so it must be a connection. The thing is I am not sure where else to look for a bad connection and I was wondering if somebody else had experienced the same problem.
|
||
![]() |
|
grateful user
|
The relay is bad, I have had probs with the new oem relays. Dont waste your time with the Napa ones, you must use the correct Bosche metal cased relay, as they run pretty warm and the plastic ones distort. I think these "new" oem relays are really old stock, I put one on a guys car a few months ago, it went bad the next day, replaced it with another new on, been fine ever since. Mine has failed a few times over the years, and most cars that come to the shop are inop, and bubba has turned and twisted every screw trying to "fix" it. I would hook your 02 sensor back up to, sure makes for good fuel milage and driveability.
__________________
fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do. Last edited by don gilbert; 10-09-2010 at 03:20 PM.. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,442
|
post#4. what's the verdict?
__________________
https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
||
![]() |
|
grateful user
|
yea, and alway do what JW says. there is another connector in the rear you might as well clean, the main 02 gang connector behind your blower motor next to the left shock.
__________________
fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Thanks a lot guys,
I cleaned every connector inside the car close to the unit. I cleaned up the ground as well. I will go to take a look at the connector behind the blower motor next to the left shock as soon as my wife comes back (otherwise my 2 y.o. is a bit dangerous inside the car... he loves the Porsche a bit too much). I will let you know what happens. I have to place an order from our host and I will order a couple new relays. The last one I got from Pelican was a plastic cover one although the picture on the website is a metal cased one. Same part number as the metal cased one though. |
||
![]() |
|
grateful user
|
I just found out from another pelican that PP is now selling the plastic relay. If i were you, I would take the part # to the local vw dealer or other euro dealer and see if you can get the metal one. Its a vw relay. The plastic one will not last long ( in my experiance anyway) they get almost hot sometimes.
__________________
fully disassembled, blasted, customized and restored 75 targa with factory hard top, 993 style turbo ft fenders, steel flares, C2 bumpers and rockers, 82 3.0 sc 9.5/1 engine with PMS flywheel, 964 cams, flowed heads, ssi's short geared 915 w/lsd, polybronze, bilstein,working lambda, modified and highly tuned cis, tensioners, pop valve, backdated exhaust and heater, 2300 lbs. no bolt left untouched. 1970 911E. Nice car but needs a re-do. |
||
![]() |
|
*****
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 2,359
|
I replaced the original metal relay with the exact same relay but in plastic. No issues here for 8 months now. And I drive mine very often. My spare works fine too.
Not doubting Don. Just saying that I've not experienced bad relays out of the box. Agree about sticking with Bosch though. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
OXS relay and terminals test.........
Quote:
Did you check the relay? How were you able to tell it was bad unless you have tested the relay. The test is very simple. Terminals #85 & #86 are the coil terminals. When energized (#85-#86), the normally open #30-87/87b will close. Terminal #30 is the power supply from fuse #18 that controls the interior, glove compartment, clock, etc. When the coil is energized, the NO (normally open) terminals will close, thus supplying power to the FV. Most likely culprit/s is poor connection or a bad OXS relay. You could check the relay and the terminals. They are either good or bad. So you don't have to guess whether these are the culprits. If they passed the test, these are not the problem/s. Tony |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,442
|
the fact that you could wack it and it would work for a while smacks of either a bad relay or a bad connection there.
__________________
https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,107
|
I agree with Don
__________________
Paul |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Why replace a good component??????
Quote:
Buying or replacing the OXS relay could solve the problem if the relay is really defective!!!! What if the problem is the connection or electrical contact/s? But if you really want to know what's the real problem, perform some analytical test and identify the problem/s. Replacing one suspected component with a new one is a way of troubleshooting that rely on luck!!!! Well sometime it is better to be lucky than good. But you cannot depend reliably on LUCK. Just my two-cents. Tony |
||
![]() |
|