help with enginie stand mounting

[Tachin]

I got the Harbor Freight heavy duty stand and the mounting ring from pelican. Does the ring bolt onto the 4 extensions on the stand and then to the engine case?

[TibetanT]

Yes it does. However, it looks like the ring (adapter) is on backwards. I will check mine tomorrow and let you know for sure. Specifically, I believe the flat side of the adapter is the side that attaches to the engine stand arms.

But, yes, you will need to purchase four (4) 3/8" bolts and some washers to fit it on the four arms of the Harbor Freight engine stand. Maybe if I am lucky with my digital camera, I can take a picture.

Hope this helps.

[TibetanT]

Okay, I found a picture:

[sailchef]

I have the same set up but have never used it, although, I have read where it is easier to mount the entire yoke/ bracket/ adapter assembly to the engine first and then lift the engine with all that attached and slide the yoke into the stand.

Like I said I've never used mine but thought I would pass this info along.

[mcaterino]

I am currently using the same setup, with the exact same engine stand. The ring does go with the thinner side toward the engine, and is bolted with M10 bolts into two of the transmission stud inserts.

I was unable to make all four of the arms of the stand bolt to the ring. They were too bulky and there just didn't seem to be enough room to have them all in there at once. So eventually I just decided to use three of them. Given the stand's capacity I didn't think it'd be an issue, and my engine is now done and supported just fine.

Oh you may also want to take off your pressure plate and maybe flywheel before bolting it up to the stand. There's not much clearance between the engine and stand. I was able to get my flywheel on, but it was a pain having to turn the engine and do a bolt at a time. I don't think the pressure plate would go. (I didn't disassemble on the stand, so am not sure coming from that end of the job.)

Here's a picture from early in my assembly that shows the ring and arm configuration.


Good luck,
Mike

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by sailchef

I have the same set up but have never used it, although, I have read where it is easier to mount the entire yoke/ bracket/ adapter assembly to the engine first and then lift the engine with all that attached and slide the yoke into the stand.

Like I said I've never used mine but thought I would pass this info along.

I have done this many times and it is much easier to mount the adapter/yoke, etc. to the engine and then hoist it up to the stand.....easier to take this approach, while removing the engine from the stand, as well.

Regards,

al

[Joe Bob]

Unless you plan on rebuilding a lot of different manufacturer engines...I'd weld the yoke to the four arms......

[Zeke]

Originally Posted by Joe Bob

Unless you plan on rebuilding a lot of different manufacturer engines...I'd weld the yoke to the four arms......

Or have it welded. After learning how to properly weld with good equipment, I'm somewhat reluctant to weld some items that will be in a high shear or tenison stress situation. You just don't know what the penetration is unless you have adequate experience or are doing a root weld where you can see the other side.

Sorry to preach, but I'd hate to hear of a motor falling off. They get pretty damn heavy as you assemble.

[Joe Bob]

I dinna say ta remove the fargin' boolts, Cap'n.....%^B

[al lkosmal]

Originally Posted by mcaterino

I am currently using the same setup, with the exact same engine stand. The ring does go with the thinner side toward the engine, and is bolted with M10 bolts into two of the transmission stud inserts.

I was unable to make all four of the arms of the stand bolt to the ring. They were too bulky and there just didn't seem to be enough room to have them all in there at once. So eventually I just decided to use three of them. Given the stand's capacity I didn't think it'd be an issue, and my engine is now done and supported just fine.

Oh you may also want to take off your pressure plate and maybe flywheel before bolting it up to the stand. There's not much clearance between the engine and stand. I was able to get my flywheel on, but it was a pain having to turn the engine and do a bolt at a time. I don't think the pressure plate would go. (I didn't disassemble on the stand, so am not sure coming from that end of the job.)

Here's a picture from early in my assembly that shows the ring and arm configuration.


Good luck,
Mike

Mike,
I also used the adapter ring and ran into the same issues that you have, regarding access to the flywheel, etc. I drilled more holes in the engine stand arms, to provide more adjusments and got all four arms to mate with the ring, but.. eventually bought a factory style engine stand mount and it really works very well. I bought mine off of Ebay, If I remember right. For a while somebody was selling nice repops......well worth the investment if you are going to do this occasionally...see pic below and eventually.. the next step is to get/build an engine test stand that allows you to dial your engine in, prior to installation. oh yes.......follow me down the slippery slope.




Regards,

Al

[Tachin]

Thanks everyone .. I picked up some 3/8 bolts and am on my way. I'm surprised that the weight of the engine is supported by only two bolts from the case. I am not removing the flywheel and pressure plate so will try to get all 4 legs form the yolk on there. thanks much!

[tperazzo]

Before you go down the road of building your own engine test stand, you may want to consider this:

Engine Test Stand for Air-cooled Porsche 911

It includes everything, except fuel pump, starter, and oil tank.